Cold storage

[Ed]

There have been some threads about storing a car for the winter. Battery, oil, tires etc...

I was just curious because you see these climate controled storage places and then you have my garage. What kind of damage could my car sustain if parked in a DRY but very cold garage? I can see these climate controled storage places being a benefit where there is alot of moisture in the air. Give me some pro's or con's, what do you think?

Thanks

[DatsunZsRule]

My baby is stored in a very dry storage garage but it is NOT climate controlled unfortunately but Cold temperature will not do any harm to them. You just want to make sure you store your car with a FULL tank of gas and use a good fuel stabilizer. (I use Sea Foam)

[hls30.com]

Ed-great question! The only criteria I have ever considered were Humidity, UV exposure, and heat-as far as promoting rust, mildew, and film deterioration(paint and/or plastic). I can't think of any issues coming from a humidity controlled freezer as long as the seasonal fluid change was done, but then we ususally only have 10-15 days at or below freezing in our winter.

Will

[EScanlon]

Anti-freeze in the proper mix (50%/50%) in the cooling system and Winter Washer Fluid in the W/Washer tank...or drained.

As Jared pointed out a Full tank of gas, and a small bottle of HEET wouldn't hurt. Oil freshly changed (so no moisture in case) and tires up to full pressure.

Just my 2¢

E

[Mike]

I would put the car on jackstands so the tires aren't under a load all winter.

[Marty Rogan]

Ed,

I live in Chicago and we can get some very cold winters here. I have been storing classic cars for over 25 years with no problems at all.

Here's what I do. Clean the inside and outside of the car thoroughly. Get your self a good car cover made of cotton, so that it breathes. Like others have suggeested, change the oil, make sure your anti-freeze is up to par. If you are concerned with moisture in your area, place a few dessicant packets inside the car and in the engine bay. Also, if you storage are is not real secure from mice, you should plug up openings, such as tail pipes, the air cleaner snorkel, etc, with steel wool to discourage them making a home in there.

Fill your gas tank and use the proper mixture of Stabil. That will prevent any condensation from forming in the tank. Drive the car around till you get it up to operating temperature, at least 20 minutes of actual driving, not just idling in the drive way. Drive the car right into the spot that you are storing it and shut it off. Don't start it again till spring!! Some people start their cars and idle them in the garage. This does not get it up to proper operating temperature and could do more harm then good by introducing moisture into its systems. Remove the battery and bring it inside. Store it on a thick block of wood. Don't place it on a concrete floor, as that can ruin a battery.

I used to put the cars up on jack stands, but stopped doing that a couple of years ago. Your springs can sag from hanging there for months. Todays modern tires are more capable of sitting with weight on them for extended periods of time than old tire designs. Roll it around once in a while if you can.

That's about it. Like I said, I have never really had a problem with storing cars this way. You just have to cover it and try to forget about it. That is the hardest part! I usually feed my Z habit by planning my next project and buying parts to put on in the spring. If you are lucky enough to have a heated garage, that is even better. You can get some of those projects done while the car is off the road.

Well, hope that helps. Good luck!

Marty

[Ed]

Thanks for the input so far. I do have a heater in my garage but I try not to use it too often as whenever I do condensation develops all over the car. Not to mention the big hole in my pocket. So this year I'm planning on putting her in my enclosed trailer and leaving her in there until the spring. Offcourse I'll take all the precautions to make sure she has a safe slumber until spring (gas, oil, and other fluids).

Thanks

[beandip]

Ed , the only problem with storing it in a enclosed container like your trailer is moisture. Especially if it is at all damp when you close it up. Each time the sun shines on the trailer and it radiates heat through the skin ,the inside will condense the moisture on the contents ,when it cools . Your Z in this case. It's just the same if you start the engine and don't completely warm it up . Moisture is not completely gone and it will condense on the inside of the block. Lack of ventilation is the enemy here. I live in a high humidity area here in Oregon and if our cars are garage kept, especially one that is attached to the house we have no real problem. In a detached building either , really because they breathe . Even when the temp drops to 33 degrees , which is the dampest temp as far as when it is cold , as I am sure you know . The changes in temp , up and down and up and down ,this is the culprit. In your unheated trailer or garage , do leave the windows open a crack of about a inch , to allow the car to breathe when the temp vacillates up and down. Lightly spraying Lysol over the interior of the car will also help with preventing mildew if this is a possibility. I have used this stuff for years on boat interiors with good results . It smells good too. Doing what Marty R posted are all great suggestions. When I stored my boat , inboard V-8 , I always ran the engine to COMPLETELY warm it up . Then change the oil and filter . I restarted the engine and again brought it to operating temp and then ran some Marvel Mystery oil down the intake. I did this to the point that the engine started to stumble and load up from the oil richness. This coats the cylinders and head , then shut it off . Remember , when these Z motors are setting there is always two valves open to the outside. Coating the valve stems and all working parts , in my estimation , is a good thing. In the spring the engine will smoke until all the residue oil is consumed but no harm is done . I have done this for many years and have never had a problem . With SUs this can be done by using the over flow hoses on the carbs to pour oil in to the float chambers . I have never used Sea Foam or Fog Oil for this but have heard that they are good also . I imagine A T F would do fine also. Gary:) One additional thing I have neither injection or a cat/converter to consider here.

[ggarrard]

Ed - I agree with Beandip regarding the condensation in the trailer....I use a plastic portable garage to store my boat, and have noted the condensation (ice droplets) forming on the inside of the roof, even with the door flaps left partly open at 20 below C. I store my Zed in a unheated barn along with probably 20 boats and another 20 cars. The owner leaves the south east facing windows open in the barn all winter to remove any moisture, and with window overhangs, no snow gets in....

GWGarrard

[Ed]

Hmmm, interesting point there Gary, my trailer is black and I'm sure the roof will have atleast 6-8 inches of snow all winter. I wonder if this would block the roof vents? Or if the heat created by the black exterior would cause condensation on the interior. Hmmm again, I can just leave my baby in the garage. I was just thinking of some options.

[hls30.com]

What about putting a couple of vents in the door-some at the top and some at the bottom?

Will

[zbane]

You might also consider getting some "Damp Rid."

I keep some of this in my closets to help with the mold issues we have in my area (heavily forested, lots o' rain). Get a couple canisters of this, put one inside your Z (regardless of trailter ventilation) and check it periodically through the winter. Any moisture that does accumulate inside the cabin will be absorbed by this stuff. FWIW

http://www.damprid.dsiwebbuilder.com/index.asp?cat=40019