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Wiring Fog Lights on the Early Z


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George, I will take a hard look at the piaa lights. From what I have been seeing on the net, you are absolutely correct about their cost. I don't like the round ones, but it seems that they do make a rectangular set as well. I will research these lights further, and i do appreciate your endorsement. That's one of the things I really enjoy about this club, that is being able to get feed back from others that have traversed the path ahead of me. Thanks.

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  • 4 months later...

I don't know how I missed this one but if you remember when I was offering a foglight upgrade with the headlight harness, I mentioned the wires in front that you pointed out.

I also supplied a micro-switch with the upgrade that allowed you to tap into those wire and they ended up going to My relay pack then back to the foglights. This way you could use your combo switch to power the microswitch and now have to run extra wires out the firewall.

Just wanted to throw that in there, cause I can. You know me. And Great write up by the way!!!

JM2CW

Dave.

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  • 2 years later...
The relay suggestion is a really good one. I used the factory wiring many years ago to connect up some Lucas fog lights and the wiring always got hot. I also used similiar switch to the rear window defroster, so I think that contributed to the problem as well. After you wire it, be sure to check the wiring to make sure it doesn't heat up.

Bob

I installed a pair of fog light using existing wires on my 12/1971 car almost a year ago, now I have notice it gets really hot at Fuse sockets (Middle one at RH of fuse box: Parking lamp). So my fuse box got burned, and after careful/isolating diagnosis, I found out it is due to amp draw from the fog lights. I hooked up my each fog light to existing factory power line at bottom of core support,and ground them to the body.

So What do you recommend to do ............(without modying a whole lot)

I notice that fuse block at parking lamps is litle warm even without the fog lights on..........Is it normal?

Pictures I have here is a set of fog lights and switch I made for my car

Esprist

www.jdm-car-parts.com

post-16910-14150809219023_thumb.jpg

post-16910-14150809219462_thumb.jpg

Edited by esprist
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You should use relays to control the fog lights. This way you are drawing the high amperage directly from a battery source and using only .25 amps to switch the power.

Edit: This is just an example borrowed from the net. It shows what you ultimately want to achieve, which is drawing the high amperage directly from a fused battery feed and using a relay to switch the power. It is just a matter of tapping into your existing system. I prefer to use a relay for each foglight.

Edited by geezer
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You should use relays to control the fog lights. This way you are drawing the high amperage directly from a battery source and using only .25 amps to switch the power.

Edit: This is just an example borrowed from the net. It shows what you ultimately want to achieve, which is drawing the high amperage directly from a fused battery feed and using a relay to switch the power. It is just a matter of tapping into your existing system. I prefer to use a relay for each foglight.

Now, is it normal that it gets little warm at fuse block when the parking lamps are on? I have brand new: parking lamp harness, turn & headlamp switch, and so on.

Esprist

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You have to understand that the original wiring that is provided on your car for the purpose of connecting the fog lights is totally inadequate. There is too much resistance in the circuit which translates into heat, which in turn is a dangerous thing. The only proper solution is to rewire them so there is a direct run from the battery to pin 30 of a standard ISO maxi relay (fused of course). Pins 85 & 86 are used to control the relay allowing the high amperage needed by the fog lights to exit pin 87 of the relay.

What was provided 40 years ago to run fog lights just doesn't cut it today.

I like your fog lights and switch and they should be easy to connect using either a single or two relays, which will solve your problem.

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How do you tap off the battery for the extra circuits (headlamps and foglamps) ? Do you go to the battery wire connection at the starter, or what? It would be unsightly to have extra wires connected to the terminal clamp on the battery.

thxZ

Sure, you could make use of the battery connection at the starter or depending what other circuits you are upgrading, you may find it beneficial to buy a seperate power distribution center to house and weatherproof the fuses and relays. I have a Spal box for this purpose. I'll see if I can get a pic of it and post it here.

Edit: This built in Japan, Spal PDC is only about 3"X3", houses 5 relays, four fuses, is water proof and has leads with weatherpac connectors. This can be used for forward lighting, fog lights, rad fans, etc. There are several companies producing several versions of these. Can't remember what I paid for this one but it wasn't much.

Edited by geezer
added pic
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Sure, you could make use of the battery connection at the starter or depending what other circuits you are upgrading, you may find it beneficial to buy a seperate power distribution center to house and weatherproof the fuses and relays. I have a Spal box for this purpose. I'll see if I can get a pic of it and post it here.

Edit: This built in Japan, Spal PDC is only about 3"X3", houses 5 relays, four fuses, is water proof and has leads with weatherpac connectors. This can be used for forward lighting, fog lights, rad fans, etc. There are several companies producing several versions of these. Can't remember what I paid for this one but it wasn't much.

Thank you for your great help on that!!!!!!!

Esprist

www.jdm-car-parts.com

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