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In-Car Time Lapse Photography Options


TomoHawk

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I think the mount for the stock rear-view mirrow would work well using a light-weight camera. The only problem you might get from that is glare off the window. Having wires from the camera hanging down might be annoying too.

the google search for car camera mounts returned mostly stuff you'd use for professional photography with the camera outside the car. For general youring like I had in mind, the mount goes inside the car. Then you can get pictures even in the rain.

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A polarized lens(concentricly not linearly polarized) cancels virtually any glare problem with out being affected by a focusing system that spins the lens.

I have one on my video camera, and it lets me film interiors through windows regardless of reflections on the glass.

Will

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Depending on what you want to record there are many options.

If you are looking to record still frames over a period of time find a compact digital camera with whats called an intervalometer function (fancy name for time-lapse) that takes either secure digital or compact flash cards (cost efective for multi-gigabite memory cards). You will also want to make sure you can lock the focus and exposure value. You'll then be able to record images (for example every thirty seconds) until the memory card is full. Be sure to have it plugged into the cigarette lighter for power or use an AC power inverter and use the camera's AC adapter.

If you want uninterupted video the best bet is to use a laptop in conjunction with video camera that can record to the laptop (most likely a firewire connection). Max out the hard drive on the laptop and you could record upwards of 12 hours uninterupted. Be aware that the longer you record the greater the chance the audio and video will not be in-sync. Although this is not so much a problem if the camera can't see anyone's lips if they're talking. Again, you'll want to be able to lock the focus, exposure value, and power it from something other than batteries.

As for mounting the camera there are many options. From my experience the suction mount devices allow to much vibration. Bogen/Manfrotto makes some very interesting camera mount gadgets that can attach to a window frame, (anti)sway bar, or just about anywhere. But looking at their online catalog is kind of tough to figure out the possibilities, as little parts from across there product line will connect together securely in ways their engineers could not possibly envision. Try your local Pro Photo/Video store to play around with what they got. (just for some ideas try this link www.bogenimaging.us/product/itemlist.php3?manufid=1&sectionid=92)

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A couple more links for you:

http://www.azcendant.com/ (HandiAVI v2.0)

http://www.imagesalsa.com/MovieSalsa/ (MovieSalsa)

Both are time-lapse movie programs designed to work with either webcams, or firewire/usb savvy camcorders.

Please keep us posted on your progress. If I ever manage to get my Z roadworthy again, I would be interested in doing something similar.

On the subject of mounts, I would think it might be possible to consider one of the suction type mounts and simply mount it to the rear hatch glass (inside). You may need to make a bracket if your camera's only mount is on the bottom but that shouldn't pose too much trouble. In fact, I'm sure those can be found as well. The possible added benefit of that might be if you wanted to get at least some of the interior into the shot. Most of these camcorders do not offer a very wide field lens as standard. I'm trying to locate an online movie someone sent me of a competition 240Z making a few laps at Thunderhill raceway. It's a gas to watch, in fact it's the movie that pushed me over the edge in deciding to find another Z... that Z inline 6 sounds awesome.

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Thanks to Ricklandia,

I got HanyAVI, and it seems to like my Bell & Howell credit card camera. I made a mount by GOOPing a short card-edge connector to the back, and forming a bracket from some aluminum ( it fits into the slot of the card-edge connector.) I'm in the process of mounting a mating bracket to the top of the heater panel area (which may double as a mount for a PDA), but I'm also going to make one that goes into the rearview mirror mount, and see which works best.

On the subject of the Laptop (for recording the images,) vibration & bumps are of concern. Would a foam pad underneath be enough? Maybe just a soft blanket would be ebough. I believe the hard drive on a laptop can survive small bumps, but in the long run the odds for a longer, error-free life will increase if you cushion the laptop. So, I'll be making up a cushion from foam blocks by carning out notches for the laptop's corners to fit into, and the whole thing will be assembled together to fit into the passender seat somehow.

thx

post-2169-1415079864113_thumb.jpg

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That's why the cushions go on the corners; air intake & exhaust are in the middle & side. Also, the foam I intend to use is about 3 or 4 inches thick. The only thing that might get in the way is the USB ports ( I have 4), which are on a corner.

BTW, to power all this 'RoadGear', I will probably end up making a panel with several 12V jacks or cigar lighter sockets on it; probably plugged directly into the fuse panel, or direct to the battery. Something else to attach to the dash somehow. This (classic car) seems to be destined to looking more like the inside of a space capsule... :ermm:

thx

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Tom,

Check out this site:

http://www.autolaptoplinkinc.com/index.html

Be warned, the little "talking head" is annoying and creepy, but after you get used to him, the pages have loads of ideas, pointers, photos and info on various laptop mounting options. The prices on these models is very respectable IMHO, should you want something more permanent.

As for temporary use, I would think that just sitting it on the passenger seat would be more than enough cushion, or at least as good as anything. X-tra foam wouldn't hurt as long as the venting is considered, but I honestly don't know that it's necessary. Laptops can take a pretty fair amount of vibration.

As for power, I would be very wary of just plugging into the fusebox for power, especially knowing how fragile the electricals on these old cars are. You would probably be better served pulling power off the battery through a relay, something like the fellow here did in making the headlight harness. I wish I could be more helpful here but I'm not that good with electrics. I bet a good forum search for guys looking to power up electronics safely will give some good info.

As for the HandiAVI program, is it actually CONTROLLING the little camera? Or just able to make the movies from the frames? If it can control it, I may try it with my little KODAK camera and see what happens!

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HandyAvi is just for capturing the images, and it allows you to replay the 'movie.' It doesn't actually control the camera, although some webcam software that comes with certain webcams, can. (like Logitec Quick-cam.)

What I meant was, does your camera have a windows driver that allows HandyAVI to "fire" the camera, much like it would if it were a webcam?

I have a Nikon D70 at the office that I know can be fired via USB command. the other software I mentioned (MovieSalsa) I believe can sniff for specific file folders to "add" frames to a movie. this allows for the movies to be made automatically from a still camera. In fact, you can even tell it "make me a movie from 6am - 6pm..." and such.

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What I meant was, does your camera have a windows driver that allows HandyAVI to "fire" the camera, much like it would if it were a webcam?
The required driver is provided. No need to fire the camera's shutter. The camera is always on, and HandyAvi just captures the current image. From my experience, webcams are always on, and you deactivate them via the software.
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