Stereo amplifier and wire choices

[hls30.com]

Thanks Dave,

I felt this was becomming something all too complicated.

Will

[280~Master]

Ed,

I did not notice anyone saying anything about the ground wire from the AMP, the fuse on the AMP or the inline fuse to the AMP. When you hook up the ground wire place it on a solid point of the car chassis. Not to just any bolt. This will help keep any engine noise from exiting out of the speakers. I can't stand that high pitched hum that is there when the engine is revved. Make sure you have 1 or 2 fuses lying around just incase you happen to ground out and burn one up. Also place your inline fuse as close to the battery as possible. This helps with something but I forget :dead: but it does help something honest.

I myself see no reason to go spend 50 to 70 dollars for an AMP installation kit that can be made for less than 15 dollars if you do it right. Buy a nice inline fuse that is rated according to the manufactures specs, should be 3 to 5 dollars. I did notice that the Amp install kits have multiple strands of wire and a fancy cover on it. I myself would go to your local hardware store and pick up the right length and gauge of a good all-weather wire and use it to power the AMP.

[Zs-ondabrain]

The fuse goes inbetween the battery and the firewall, if there is a short at the firwall, the fuse will pop and keep you from having a meltdown in the engine compartment. Same goes for any other short between the battery and the amp.

Amp wire from a KIT is used because it is usually oxygen-free and oil and gas resistant. The multiple strand wire allows it to be more flexible in and around the car, where as your "hardware store" wire is usually low strand and very stiff.

Make sure that when you ground the amp's ground wire, you grind of the paint to expose the metal. This will give the best ground possible.

FYI,

Dave.

[280~Master]

Very good point on the "hardware store" wire. It is a bit stiff. Plus it is not as pretty as an AMP kit or the boobs thread but I say its under the carpet and not visable so it does not bother me. I used my "hardware store" setup on my 03 Xterra and my 76 280. Ran the wire inside of the frame on the Xterra and under the carpet on the 76 and have had no problems for 3 years now. I have two 12" MTX speakers along with a 1500W Competetion AMP in my Xterra and two 10" Pioneer 300W speakers with a Sony Explode 1000W AMP in the 76. I have no problems with fading/pulsating lights or any engine hum from the ground.

I know the AMP draws quite a bit of power from the electrical system but if a wire can run 110/220Volts in an all-weather statethen it should be able to handle 12Volts. I'm not an electrician so I don't know all the specs that come with wires and stuff like I just give my 1/2 cent worth and try to learn from others.

[hls30.com]

A couple of thoughts on oxigen free wire:

1) Oxigen isn't the problem with wire, actually it is the purity of the copperrelative to other metals(usually iron).

2)Take a VOM to a length of Walmart 16g zip cord and an equal size and length of oxigen free wire, use ohms law to illustrate the difference, and the only serious difference is the impact on the wallet!

If you really want excellent wire at a low price, visit a welding supply store, they have wire with the absolute best insulation, highest strand count, greatest purity, and so flexable you can tie a tight knot in one gage wire...hard to beat-though for a 7 foot run for car speakers, I don't see it as necessary, Walmart 16g speaker wire works just as well for "a lay and leave alone" speaker instalation.

Will

Will

[Walter Moore]

For the actual speaker wires should be plenty big enough so long as you aren't pumping over 200W to EACH speaker.

The power wire to the amp really does need to be large, and a high stranding count (like welding wire) would help with the electrical noise because it gives the wire a much lower inductance at high frequencys, thereby allowing the high frequency noise to dissipate through the alternator. (Which is where you want to connect it.)

If you are really installing a 1000W amplifier you might want to add a secondary ground wire from the amplifier to the alternator. I would still ground the amp to the frame, but give that current a nice low resistance path from the alternator to the amplifier AND BACK. The stock grounding straps will have a hard time with 80+ amps. The only thing that drew that much current when the car was new was the starter.