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How should I handle this?...


Zak's Z

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So Im up here in Canada and winter is coming fast. I bought a new house that were moving into January 30th, right in the dead middle of winter (it has a 2 car garage...yaaa!).

Since I had to go about buying the new house and selling this one, it ate up alot of my Z-time this summer. I HAD planned on getting all the paint off her (she's currently just a rolling shell) and getting her into a shop to get her prepped and painted before winter. BUT..

Currently the enging bay is all cleaned out and about 60% coated with POR-15. I 'll have to read if I can finish it in cold weather, or I'll have to heat the garage all morning then finish it.

The rest of the body is MOSTLY paint free now. theres alot of bare metal spots, but I still have alot of work to do to get everything I want painted free of the P/O's layers of paint before I send it to the shop.

I have hit all bare metal I see with METAL-READY, and I dont see any real rusting going on of places I've cleaned off.

So my question is...What should I do to in preparation of winter hibernation, and a short trip (5 miles) via tow-truck to the new garage? I was thinking I just use a rattle-can self etching primer and then sand it all off come spring when Im ready to finish removing all the paint so I can get it to the shop.

Any feedback?

Zak

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Don't treat it at all,

Move it, let it set a day or so, then go over all of the bare spots with metal ready-keep them wet for a good 20 minutes(use a spray bottle), and any chance for rust will be gone without having to sand away primer later.

Will

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Hey Zak,

You might want to use a spray-can self etching primer.Iif your going to move in in the dead of winter..there is so much salt in in the air it won't hurt to spray this on..In the spring you can use a lacquar thinners to wipe it off and the places you don't get it off you can paint or prime right over top of it.

Dean

P.S. If you need a contact to get the primer, i get jobber cost.

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I have hit all bare metal I see with METAL-READY' date=' and I dont see any real rusting going on of places I've cleaned off.

So my question is...What should I do to in preparation of winter hibernation, and a short trip (5 miles) via tow-truck to the new garage? I was thinking I just use a rattle-can self etching primer and then sand it all off come spring when Im ready to finish removing all the paint so I can get it to the shop.

Zak[/quote']

My strong suggestion is to make sure you use the self etching primer!!!! you want to make sure you cover bare metal.... Dont take any chances .... These poor cars are so prone to rust it's insane.....Because it is true you can always take it off when you are ready to take to the shop or they could do it also at the shop for you.... And just out of curiosity have you made sure to check all the weak areas for onset or cancer? That is one thing i have learned quick is that paint is very good at hiding it even if it isnt bubbling up yet!

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I suggested what I did because of two things.

First, I live in an area where there is normally a minimum of 90% humidity(you can actually put a new piece of untreated metal out side and watch the rust begin.) Metal ready is an etchant, and leaves a zink phosphate coating that will protect the metal-even here! If you want to be 100%, cover the car with a well securred plastic sheet before moving it and remove the plastic sheet after the car is back in a garage.

and second, the etching primer is porous, and will hold what ever the car runs into. When it is ground off all of the junk it picked up will be settle back on the car-I would rather kill everything that could hurt the car than spread it around as sanding dust...

WIll

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Thanks for the info guys, much appreciated.

TROUBLEDZ - Thanks for the offer, I'll send you a PM with a chemical wish-list when I get it done!

..And did you pick up that Z from Florida yet? Last I heard you were shopping for a transportation method.

Zak

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Zak

For the POR-15 to cure properly it needs to be applied when the temperature is atleast 70F-21C. You can heat your garage like you mentioned just be careful. If you heat the garage too quick the cold metal of your car will condense the moisture in the warm air. Kind of like what a cold can of beer does when you take it out of the fridge.:)

If you haven't done so already the winter is a great time to redo all your suspension components in the basement. You can sandblast and POR them this winter then when spring comes around you can get back to work on the body.

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For what it is worth, my car sat in the garage for a couple of years with no paint and the worst it got was a little surface rust. My vote is with HLS30.com's suggestion. putting paint on just to sand it off later is a waste of time and money. (not to mention the scratches in the car's surface you will end up with.)

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even if it is raining the day you move the car , what Will ,hls30 , said is what I would do also. This way you wont be blowing all the dust in your new garage for no reason . The primer in any event is porous and will allow moisture to contact the medal . If you were going to store the car for a while , that is different and a coat of primer followed by a top coat of rattle can paint would work. The paint will seal the primer and all could easily be sanded off when you can get back to the preping of the car. Primer without paint is not a good thing. Gary

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There has been bare metal spots for a few months now with nothing more than a slight flash-rust haze, and I'm sure it will get wet from the snow when I tow it so I'll just heat it up when I get it back then wipe or hose off any salt, dry it if need be then do another coat of metal ready.

Thanks for the info guys, much appreciated.

zak

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