Hi,

I'm after more amps from my alternator, what alternator upgrade are there for my 240K ?, a "just plugin" be nice ?, I live in Tassie so cars from the US would not be an option.

also it using a external regulator I believe, 2 wire out from the alternator, plus power

Nigel

what about an alternator out of the L24 powered R30 skyline? (locally delivered 84ish?).. maybe the C210 (around 80's model skyline) may have a bigger one too.. but not sure

not sure what regulator type they are.. but you may be worth converting to internally regulated? like the Z guys do.. (i think Lachlan has done this?)

otherwise you may be able to get an aftermarket one? maybe check with repco

Brought myself a MR30 Skyline Hatch today (AUS $275),

I fitted the alternator out of it into my 240K today, the R30 alternator was internally regulated, and my old 240k was externaly regulated, anyway, after a search on the net, I found some 'Z' stuff that was almost what I needed to change the wiring, any way this is what I did in the end,

http://noddle.customer.netspace.net.au/My_240K/R30%20into%20240K%20Alternator%20Up%20Grade/

This may be useful to some other 240K owners..

Noddle,

I've taken the liberty of transferring the info you were good enough to post to attachements to this message.

That way it won't disappear quite so unexpectedly and maybe our moderators will think it worthwhile making this a sticky.

This is one of the better descriptions I have ever seen!

Quoting Noddle:

"

THE ALTERNATORS:

The OLD (externally regulated Alternator) had the "N" and "F" connected by the plastic "T" connector.

"N" Neutral was connected by a Y (yellow) wire.

[This is the top of the "T" connector]

"F" Field was connected by a W/B (White, black stripe) wire.

[This is the stem of the "T" connector]

The NEW IR ALT (internal regulated alternator) will have two connections, also in a T configuration

like the old unit.

"S" Sense is connected to the battery (direct +12 Volts)

[This is the top of the "T" connector]

"L" Lamp, this Senses if the circuit is turned on when the ignition is,

it will energize the alternator.

HOW TO MODIFY THE WIRING:

Disconnect the old voltage regulator see picture "Regulator.jpg',

and disconnect the Choke Relay See picture "Choke Relay.jpg", (my 240K doesn't use this..)

Splice the W (white) wire to the Y one. (Sense circuit), See picture "Sense Circuit.jpg"

Splice the W/B (white/black) wire to the W/B (white/blue) one with a DIODE with the white stripe

to the white / black wire. (Lamp circuit), This fixed the "Run-On" problem. See picture "Lamp Circuit.jpg"

If the DIOIDE is not used, the engine won't shut off even when the ignition switch is off and

the key removed. This is because the charging system is in a "feedback" loop and can't stop once

it is going.

To solve the problem, a diode must be installed. A diode is basically a one-way valve for current

and will not allow the "feedback" problem occur. The diode can be found at Radio Shack and the

most common is specified as 1N5402.see picture "diode.jpg"

The cathode end of the diode (end with a white stripe) should be connected to the switched

12V connection (white / black). The anode end of the diode should be connected to the "L"

terminal (white / blue).

"

I "borrowed" most of it from the net, but I did have to sort out some of the colours since it was originally written for US 'Z' cars, also I had to add a diode to fix the problem when you turn the engine off, it would keep running, I found that bit of information form another US site

orginal site - http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_iralt.html

A really good effort regardless - even the photos are unique to the C110!

I have done this mod myself on a few occasions but have never got off the behind to make it available to others.

The same info is good for 'foreign' alternators such as the internal reg Bosch units in Oz. Just get one for a Chrysler Valiant or earlier Mitsubishi and it will not only be easy to set up for bolt on but has the same connections.

this is some sweet info, i think i might have to do this to mine as the head unit likes to die when im driving at night and stop at intersections so the alt isnt spinning much.

just out of curiosity how many amps is the standard alt?

standard K alternator is 60 amps i believe. ive had the same running on problem with my EFI conversions as you Noddle. i ended up putting another switch in to stop the engine but ill try the diode.

Hi,

I decided that the 60A alternator wasn't up to the job anymore,

so I retro fitted the internals of a 85A VN Commodore alternator into the housing of my 60A Nissan one,

It pretty much was a clean swap of parts, except the power connector (bolt) was a different size, so I had to drill the housing a little to fit it,

as for the wiring, the 'S', I connected straight to the power connector on the alternator, the 'L', I connected to the existing wiring ( Note that this wiring was modified before to use a internal regulated alternator - see above information )

Nigel