Top End Performance triangulated rear strut bar...

[Cethern]

Hi Jon

I was at Ralley/Sport talking with Jeff Winter yesterday. And what you have said is pretty much what he said. It was great to talk with Jeff and know there is a shop close by that knows Datsuns.

For the rear roll bar he was talking about 1k for a install 2500 for a full cage and after seeing some of the work he had done I can understand the price I do think 1000 for the rear part is a little steep but it was tight to the body and very clean.

Sorry I didn't mean to hijack .

Cethern

[Ron Carter]

Will,

thanks I am closely tied to the guys at PDK the strut bar deisign is our collaboration. There have been discussions of the pop up thing before and I guess I am over sensitive to the situation.

Mark and Mark at PDK are great fabricators and have done excellent work on three of my Datsun race cars. They are fast, efficient and tallented. They did all the fabrication on my Z car and did a brilliant job. I know their capabilities and I wanted to make a point that their product deserved a better look even though the "package" (their website) was not that good.

[ZIII]

Got the TEP rear triangular bar in a couple of days ago and it does look beautiful. However, it doesn't fit. I have been playing with it for two days now and carefully trying to bend it to get it on and it just aint going.... It looks like I am going to have to enlarge two of the strut bolt holes in order to get it on. One hole adjustment will be minor but the other one will have to be quite large.... Will go back out to the garage again tonight and attack it.....

[240ZMan]

George, I've been watching this thread because strut bars are next on my list for my '73. Do you think the reason it doesn't fit is because of a manufacturing issue on their end? Or do you think it's because your car's strut tops aren't aligned anymore?

FWIW, if you want to take some measurements I'll be glad to do the same on mine and see how close they are.

[ZIII]

Daniel,

Thanks for your question. At first, when I unpacked the bar I could see this puppy was not going to fit simply because one angle was way off. I thought it might have been a shipping problem although it was very well packed and there was no indication at all that it was damaged during transit. I figured I could handle that so I tried it and one side was about three inches too high. Into the vice it went and I bent it to where it was at the proper height. However, the two mounting holes on one side are about 1/8 inch off and the bar itself appears to be about 1/8 inch too long. Now, whether that means my towers have moved over the many years or if the bar is not spec, that I really don't know. I know that I will have to enlarge the hole by a large margin if there is any hope of getting this to fit. I really am not too excited about that and am regretting perhaps not getting the MSA rear strut bar that has an adjustable feature to it. But I will keep at this and see what happens.

The measurements I have are as follows:

From the driver side; center of the bolt;

12 o'clock to 12 o'clock: 34.5 inches

3'o'clock to 9 o'clock on passenger side: 30.5

6 o'clock to 6 o'clock: 34.5

It would be interesting to compare with what you have......

Oh, and I do regret not having a response/comment on this particular thread concerning pop-up windows, browsers, computers, etc.....

Regards,

[240ZMan]

I measure the following: (in fractions since my tape measure isn't decimal)

12 o'clock to 12 o'clock: 34 7/16 inches

3'o'clock to 9 o'clock on passenger side: 30 9/16

6 o'clock to 6 o'clock: 34 7/16

The differences aren't that much. I'll be curious to read what you think once you have it mounted.

Another question: did you consider the PDK? I like the idea that the triangulated mounts attach on both sides. Seems like it would possibly distribute the load better and put less stress on the holes you have to drill into the sheet metal.

[Cethern]

I went out and looked at my 75 280 This is not dead on but close and I took mine from the outside of the bolts

6 to 6 is 33.5

12 to 12 is 37.5

3 to 9 is 37.5

When I get some extra hands and more lighting I'll get from the center. Maybe in the morning when I get off work.

[ZIII]

Daniel.....

The measurements appear very close and certainly I will have to drill larger holes in this TEP bar than our differences to get it to fit. Therefore, I am now leaning to the error being in the production area as opposed to variations in measurements due to flex/age. Mind you, I am not thrilled to have to drill larger holes as I would tend to think that would further weaken the bar but that is just a thought.

I did consider the PDK rear bar (http://www.pdkfabrication.bravepages.com/240%20rear.htm) and certainly it seems more substantial than the TEP in that it connects at four points, its mounting points appear to be more substantial and it is secured by all three strut bolts as opposed to only two in the TEP. What drove my decision towards the TEP was that it was less obstructive, was powder coated black, one could use the stock strut covers to cover the bolts and I was not too excited about drilling holes in my shock towers. In other words, the TEP was a compromise. The PDK is $50.00 more and it appears to be well worth it. Then again, I am not racing or rallying my car so my requirements are not as stringent as someone who is.

Tomorrow, I shall attack this thing (again) and see where it gets me. Then, if I get it on will test it out and will let you know. I will be taking a rather long trip in the Z on Friday so I really want to get this mounted before I leave. Hopefully you are not in a great hurry.....

Cethern,

This bar is made specifically for a 240. The 280 measurements are way different......

[240ZMan]

George, I share you concern about creating too much of an obstruction. I like having the option of taking the Z down for a Saturday afternoon Costco run

You mentioned that the PDK bar needs to have holes drilled on top of the strut towers. I didn't realize that - I assumed that it would use the existing bolts from the strut. Hmmm.

I'm in no hurry, so I look forward to hearing your feedback once you have it installed. Good luck!

[hls30.com]

I am glad for all of the personal experience being shared, any chance of a photo or two to save you from typing?

I feel like my two year old, "Me see. Me see. Me see Daddy!"

Will

[ZIII]

You mentioned that the PDK bar needs to have holes drilled on top of the strut towers. I didn't realize that - I assumed that it would use the existing bolts from the strut. Hmmm.

Daniel,

It is the TEP bar that I purchased that needs the holes re-drilled.... not the PDK!!!! I have no experience with the PDK only that it appears to be more substantial that the TEP based on it connecting at four points and that it uses all three bolts on the strut as opposed to only 2 for the PEP.

I will try to get the bar installed today and will take some pictures... however, as I mentioned, I leave early tomorrow morning, have twenty things I have to get done today and am not sure if I will be able to get to it...

But, I'll be back......

[jmortensen]

They're both going to need holes drilled at the firewall, and the PDK also needs holes drilled in the frame rail.

It's worth it. Drill the holes.