Top End Performance triangulated rear strut bar...

[jmortensen]

I do notice the creaking when going over a driveway, especially at an angle.

Jon, which bar did you use?

I made mine. I used heims joints on it, and later realized that this isn't the best way to do it. The joints allow the strut towers to move up and down independently, so now I've redone it again. The old one was a couple brackets welded to the strut towers. The bar itself was a piece of "tap tube" from a circle track supplier, and I used 5/8" rod ends. It was really simple to make, and the tubing was really light. Just didn't take into account the movement that was allowed by the joints on the ends.

The new one is a simple 1.5 x .095 DOM tube welded between the towers, in conjunction with a roll cage that is attached to the rockers and the strut towers. I'm also planning an X between the strut towers and the base of the hoop on the opposite sides. The main hoop will tie into the roof as well. Here's a picture of what I've done so far...

[Ron Carter]

That looks good Jon. my bar is above the strut towers, attached to the roll cage and doubles as a seatbelt connection point.

[ZIII]

If you didn't notice a difference in the handling after installing the rear bar, my guess is you aren't that into generating lots of lateral g's. It made a huge difference on my car.

Jon,

I hope you don’t think that I put all this time, effort and money into my suspension system so that I could cruise up and down the boulevard. I did it so I could turn. While my car is certainly not a track car I don’t think I would be too embarrassed to be on a track as it turns and will pull g’s with the best of them.

I agree with Ron when he says the front is much more critical. When I put the front bar in I saw an immediate and very perceptible change for the better in handling. And that was with the straight MSA bar. I am now sorry that I didn’t go for the more rigid PDK bar but I am happy with what I have.

I was expecting only half a miracle with the rear bar and sorry to say I didn’t get it. Perhaps it’s doing something there but I have not perceived any change in dynamics at all. (Don’t bother alluding to the fact that I may not perceive things because believe me I know my car). And, as far as getting rid of all the squeaks going up ramps or dips mine never did that in the first place. Now, every Z, while a Z, is different and time has had different affects on each individual car. The rear bar on mine has done little that I can tell.

Daniel, regarding the rear bar and despite all the hassle to get it installed, it is staying in. I don’t think it takes up too much space and as a matter of fact, for me, it serves as a tie-down for stuff. IMO, the front is way more critical and I would certainly focus on it. If I had to do it over again, I would opt for the PDK front bar as Ron suggests.

[Carl Beck]

That looks good Jon. my bar is above the strut towers, attached to the roll cage and doubles as a seatbelt connection point.

Hi Ron (everyone):

Gee..that looks a lot like mine <vbg>. However I have an additional bar at the front of the rear deck area... behind which the 26 Gallon Fuel Cell sat... Note the metal "divider" on that brace to keep the seat belts from sliding...

As front bars were mentioned.. When BRE put the front bar in - it was referred to as a "spreader-bar" in Off-Road Vehicles Mag (Oct. 73)... now known as a strut tower brace... thought some would get a kick out of that...

FWIW,

Carl B.

[jmortensen]

Wasn't trying to offend, ZIII. I can't believe that this is your take on the bar though. When I made mine I was autoxing every month at the time (this is close to 10 years ago), and the sign to me of a ricer was these three things: Farty exhaust, strut tower bar, $300 Nology spark plug wires. If you had those things, I could pretty much tell that you were an idiot before you ever opened your mouth. I had such a distaste for strut tower bars that I didn't use one, even though I was autoxing every month. Finally I was convinced to try it, and I made my own bars and stuck them on. Both bars made a HUGE difference. I drove it with one, then the other, then both. It wasn't as though the rear bar didn't do much. They both made a very big difference. My experience was much more like Jayru's, the one that started this thread:

I've had this thing sitting in the garage for a few months now. Never got around to installing it. Finally put it on the car yesterday and Wow, all i can say is wow!

My car feels like a completely different car. Gone are all the shakes/rattles from the rear of the car. It feels completely solid now. Going around turns... no flex at all! The car's tighter, more agile. Even simple things like going over bumps, potholes, driveways, etc. No flex, and the load is distributed so evenly, you can really feel it. Probably the best thing i've done to change the driving experience of the car for the better. I never thought it would do so much!

My only regret is not buying the front one too! I highly reccomend it...

As you can see, he only added the rear, not the front, and he seems pretty convinced of its usefulness.

[Ron Carter]

Hi Carl (and everyone else). Yes, I have seen that tab before! I am assuming that is the cage that came in your car...the tube diameters look spot on correct.

Can't wait to see your car done. When do you think you think the car will be unvailed to the public?

OT: Carl I was over to Les's recently and saw Adam Corrola's roadster and understand that Les is making cushions for your seat (and my seat). Will that effect the cost of the seat we are making? we should probably talk about this off line. Drop me a PM when you can.

[Carl Beck]

Hi Ron (everyone):

Yes, that is the original cage - Dr. Logan purchased the car from Mr. Brock and he assures me that other than putting it into "Street Clothes".. everything was left the way BRE built it.

The exceptions included removing the original 26 gallon fuel cell (which he did not keep), replacing the original BRE modified hood with a stock hood ( he did thank goodness keep the BRE hood and that came with the car), replaced the stock interior (but didn't keep the BRE Racing Seats).. and putting it on street tires (didn't keep the original LeMans wheels either)...

Other than that it was still in it's as raced configuration.. I was hoping to get it done by Jan. 1. 2007, but that may be delayed another month. Still working on getting that 26 Gallon Fuel Cell recreated. That may take 4 to six weeks to get the bladder/safety foam custom built.

Of course I have get our seats done too ... past that it's just a matter of many small items... like rewiring the car for the lights and the BRE instrument panel and gauges in etc. Still need to find the right size batteries...I found that the original battery frames from BRE were still welded to the floor behind the seats, when I removed the carpet and pads Dr. Logan had installed!

I don't know if anyone noticed or not in that picture - but when BRE put the "spreader-bar" on the front shock towers, they notched the valve cover in order to keep the spreader-bar straight. Kind of unique...(pictured below).

Ron - I'll e-mail you with details on the seats..

FWIW,

Carl

[ZIII]

Wasn't trying to offend, ZIII. I can't believe that this is your take on the bar though.

As you can see, he only added the rear, not the front, and he seems pretty convinced of its usefulness.

Jon,

I regret that this IS my take on this particular rear bar. Now, you have yourself a REAL bar, as does Ron. Remember, the TEP bar runs just to the shock towers with a provision to secure the bottom triangle to the shock tower by drilling a hole and inserting a bolt which I elected not to do. Nevertheless, we go back to the original assessment in that I just did not get the bells and whistles that Jayru experienced when I finally got it installed. Additionally, as I mentioned, perhaps it’s doing something that I am just not sensing because of how my car is already set up.

As Jayru seems pretty convinced of its usefulness, I am equally convinced of its lack thereof. Furthermore, I don’t think there is a right or wrong answer here but rather a question of its merit to each individual car and set-up.

[fatfree]

I also have fitment issues of my rear strut bar on my 280z. It's about 1/2" too wide, and if I was to go down any lower, it would definitely tear my vinyl.

I think this bar was made for a 240z since 240z's has rear strut towers further apart than 280z's.

My 280z is mint and not damaged at all.

Have contacted the seller, but I have a feeling they will blame it on my car.

[Zed Head]

Who is the seller and why would they blame it on your car? Did they advertise as a 280Z bar or do you think that they are scammers? It's common knowledge that the 280Z strut towers are taller and closer together at the top.

240Z = 853 mm center to center

280Z = 836.4

15.6 mm - 0.6"

Share, so that others can avoid your fate.

[fatfree]

Who is the seller and why would they blame it on your car? Did they advertise as a 280Z bar or do you think that they are scammers? It's common knowledge that the 280Z strut towers are taller and closer together at the top.

240Z = 853 mm center to center

280Z = 836.4

15.6 mm - 0.6"

Share, so that others can avoid your fate.

Oh, the reason why I would think they would blame my car is because of one of the posters here (above) said that they stood by their product, and the seller also stated on the site that it's a perfect fit, and if it wasn't then it's because it's the car.

The seller is Top End Performance themselves, and they did advertise it for the 280z.

Even if I was to open the bolt holes up, it wouldn't mount properly, because the center circle (circle inside the 3 bolts) don't line up either with my strut tower center.

I messaged them, and we'll see what they say.

[Zed Head]

Looks to me like they just got their inventory mixed up, or somebody grabbed the wrong plans when they made your bar. It's obviously wrong, just be polite when requesting a swap for the right one and it shouldn't be a problem. The numbers I posted are directly from the Body chapters of the FSM's for 1973 and 1976.

Another thought - find out what the distance between those holes is supposed to be for both bars. Measure yours and see what's what.

Edited July 3, 2014 by Zed Head