New clutch replacement problem

[slobound76]

I have a 77 280Z and through you guys' help got the new one in and everything back together and thought everything was goos to go but found one problem...after getting everything in and good to go, I found out that the clutch actuator (pretty sure that's what its called) once bolted back in, doesn't reach the fork when the pedal is depressed. The fork is too far back for the pin to hit when you press the clutch pedal and we were certain everything was in and perfect when it was all bolted back together...any suggestions? I really can't afford to take it to a shop to have it all done, basically wound up broke after ordering in a new clutch and driveshaft plus assorted neccessary seals, etc. Anything anybody knows about the fork would be a godsend right about now

[Curtis240Z]

Did you change the throwout bearing collar? If you did, was it the same length?

[slobound76]

sure did, everything was kosher, just after getting it all back up and bolted tight that the fork now rests about 2" from the actuator, the angle is way off but is all snug in there and everything

[Curtis240Z]

The pin on the slave cylinder should be contacting the fork even when you aren't pressing the clutch pedal. If you are sure everything when in as it came out and the fork is in the same location in relation to the slave cylinder, then bleed the slave cylinder.

[slobound76]

There has to be something wrong with the fork, it is all the way out rather than all the way forward like it should be, but the fork went back in locked into place and that's making it go all thw way back and have no clue why that is..the actuator line was bled and is bolted back on and there is about a 2 inch gap between it and the fork...

[JimmyZ]

Just going through other possibilities... Don't get alarmed.

Inside the bellhousing there is a ball/stud which the clutch fork attaches to. (midspan) Was/IS the fork engaged on the ball stud. Can you move the fork by hand? It should only move in a linear fashion not side to side. It might be possible that the fork is loose/off the stud and needs to be snapped onto the ball. Does the end of the fork line up with the slave cylinder as it should is what I'm asking.

The following suggestions are really long shots. (Stupid) Are you sure that the throwout bearing/collar was facing the right way? Is the fork attached to the collar? You should be able to shine a light up in there and verify

It has been a long time since mine was apart. Just going on memory.

Send us a picture if U can.

[slobound76]

The fork lines up with the slave cylinder, the fork is on the ball inside the housing, but the ball is way back now, not up more forward like it looks like it needs to be in order to push the fork up to the slave cylinder

[JimmyZ]

Can you send a picture?

[JimmyZ]

The ball stud is fixed and unadjustable. The fork and it's relationship to the slave cyl/pressure plate are all that matters. A picture would really help.

Are you using the same type/size clutch components as what came out of the car? I know that there is a difference between the early and late model pressure plates. I own a 240z and use a 280z pressure plate. Can't remember what changes I had to make when I switched but the 240 PP was higher/taller than the 280Z pressure plate.

[RogerZ]

From what you describe sounds like the fork is in there backwards somehow.

[JimmyZ]

Yeah I'm thinking this is one of those things like the time I rebuilt both the Z's front calipers. After putting them on the car I couldn't get them to bleed. I had switched them and the bleeders were on the bottom! Switched them back and not so amazingly they bled fine.

This has to be something really obvious. Fork backwards, forgot that the "little adjuster thingy" on the slave cylinder was not installed, reversed T/O bearing collar, etc... At least I hope it's something that simple.