Repairing plastic panels? (interior)

[beandip]

I use the regular slow cure JB . Also if you are repairing the seat hinge covers and need to replace missing bits. If you use masking tape on the patch to hold the JB Weld , it will give a texture that is close to the surface on the part. I used the fabric that POR sells . To repair the panels. I think most any mesh type of product will work with the JB , I even have used the matting used for landscaping for weed control. It works great and it doesn't have loose strands that keep coming off the patch as you work with it. I also used the ultimate on the plastic for noise deadening. I think every plastic panel on my car was cracked and you would never know it unless I show where the repairs are . Gary

[EScanlon]

Meant to ask -- which JB Weld do you suggest? I take it the standard, slow set, versus the Kwik?

I've used both, and it just depends on how much time I need to devote to it. Haven't really found a huge difference between one and the other except for the speed of the set. You can also accelerate the speed of the standard with a hair dryer or a small heat gun. One note of caution regarding the application of heat, it WILL make the JBW runny as if it were warm honey...but it will also set much faster.

I would say that the biggest factor in using one over the other is how long will it take you to cover the repair area, properly lay out the reinforcement cloth and also saturate it, without having the JBW set. This is the same consideration that I use when mixing Epoxies for the R/C boats.

Longer Set times = more time to work with before it is too late and it starts to set hard. The longer set time also allows you to warm it up and therefore get it to flow out and eliminate spikes or spatula marks.

When I'm holding a piece of molding clay to a piece and I don't want to wait forever for it to set, then the Kwik Set and a bit of heat is indicated.

Also -- any more detail on that lawn material, the anti-seepage stuff? Is there a name? Is it sold in big yardage or is it in strips or little squares??

Actually, Beandip is the one that discovered this stuff, and his first suggestion was to use it in place of the POR Mesh material.

At first glance and comparison, you'd be hard pressed to discern the difference....except for the color. The Anti-Silt is a darker shade than the POR Mesh, but since color is not a characteristic that affects it's performance it isn't a relevant difference.

Other than that, it really does remnd me of Fiberglass Strand Mat, but only a very thin sheet of it. I only tried using it because I didn't have anything else handy...and it worked very well.

I've used Silt Sock for the drain tubing I've interred in the back yard. I'm on a hill, and proper drainage is a key in any landscaping project here especially since the soil is primarily clay. The material that I've used on my tubing is drastically different from the material that Gary (Beandip) brought by, so I can only call it a silt block becaue that's what he referred to it as. When I stop by the hardware store later, I'll look into it and advise.

And as long as you're here -- can I ask what you suggest for repairing soft vinyl? Specifically, a few slits of an inch or so in a headliner or similar? (I.e. there's no missing material.)

Thanks for your time,

Steve.

Yikes...do you have the time?

Vinyl in ANY of it's forms, hard, soft, flexible, etc. is a real slippery substance to properly glue / repair / patch or work with.

While some people will claim success with one repair compound, the same won't work with another example that "should have been the same". And vice versa.

I'm not trying to make it difficult, or try to hide something, but this is something that will vary even amongst upholsterers. Where one guy will swear by one, the other will ridicule it.

This is because of the dissimilarity between the vinyls themselves.

So, with that said, I use primarily two different types of repair glue.

One is an excellent harder vinyl repair glue, the other is a better softer vinyl repair glue....amongst the "soft" vinyls. In the "Hard" vinyl category...I use one... Household GOOP, this also works well with some plastics...but it MUST have a good grip.

The two products are:

1) VYNA BOND - Vinyl Repair Patch.

Mfg by: PDI Inc.Circle Pines, MN 55014 Ph 612-785-2156

2) VLP - VINYL / LEATHER Repair.

Mfg by: Performix, a div of Plasti Dip International, Blaine MN 55449 Ph 800-969-5432

Both do a superb job of gluing vinyl and even leather. But I would recommend you play with them so YOU get used to them rather than just slap it on and go.

The best tips that I can give you is to use the LEAST amount of glue possible, while not starving it for proper adhesion, and make sure the surface of the bond area is as clean and debris free as possible. Lastly make sure that you've relieved whatever pressure might pull the vinyl apart for the amount of time it takes the vinyl repair to set thoroughly.

There's tons more I could write and believe me when I say that there will be half a dozen other opinions. So, let's let them chime in.

E

[ktm]

The material Gary is talking about is a woven geotextile. Fiberglass fabric is a type of woven textile. Woven textiles have widely varying properties depending on material type (polypropylene, polyester, etc.), strand width, strand length, mass per unit area, apparent opening size, etc. I am not surprised that this material is similar to fiberglass fabric, however, I have never considered using it before (no reason, just did not put two and two together).

I am sure that Gary has had great success in using the material. I would caution using that material for anything structural though. The material Gary is mentioned is not designed for tensile strength but rather to act as a barrier to vegetation. Not exactly a high load application.

Saying that, for the application you are inquiring about (panel repair), the material should work fine.

[SteveInOakland]

To repair the panels. I think most any mesh type of product will work with the JB , I even have used the matting used for landscaping for weed control. It works great and it doesn't have loose strands that keep coming off the patch as you work with it. I also used the ultimate on the plastic for noise deadening. I think every plastic panel on my car was cracked and you would never know it unless I show where the repairs are .

Thanks, Gary! I took a look at some weed-block fabric I happen to have, and it does look really good for this. It's quite thin, but it does not stretch. I will probably use this since it's on hand -- unless I run into the silt-retention stuff Enrique is talking about and it somehow looks better.

While some people will claim success with one repair compound, the same won't work with another example that "should have been the same". And vice versa.

I'm not trying to make it difficult, or try to hide something, but this is something that will vary even amongst upholsterers. Where one guy will swear by one, the other will ridicule it.

This is because of the dissimilarity between the vinyls themselves.

So, with that said, I use primarily two different types of repair glue.

One is an excellent harder vinyl repair glue, the other is a better softer vinyl repair glue....amongst the "soft" vinyls. In the "Hard" vinyl category...I use one... Household GOOP, this also works well with some plastics...but it MUST have a good grip.

The two products are:

1) VYNA BOND - Vinyl Repair Patch.

Mfg by: PDI Inc.Circle Pines, MN 55014 Ph 612-785-2156

2) VLP - VINYL / LEATHER Repair.

Mfg by: Performix, a div of Plasti Dip International, Blaine MN 55449 Ph 800-969-5432

Both do a superb job of gluing vinyl and even leather. But I would recommend you play with them so YOU get used to them rather than just slap it on and go.

The best tips that I can give you is to use the LEAST amount of glue possible, while not starving it for proper adhesion, and make sure the surface of the bond area is as clean and debris free as possible. Lastly make sure that you've relieved whatever pressure might pull the vinyl apart for the amount of time it takes the vinyl repair to set thoroughly.

Enrique, thanks also for clarifying on JBW Kwik and Not-Kwik.

So is it the Performix stuff that you are recommending for softer vinyl? (I hope so because I think I can find it readily.)

--How thin is this? I've done well with Shoe Goop and similar, but it is thick, and what I want to do right now is work some into a small slit, hopefully not enlarging the slit. And I'll have a patch on the back side to hold the two sides of the slit together. A thin glue would help. These things tend to be a mess when they get stuck on the front of the vinyl, partly because they invariably get filth embedded in them. Seems to me the thicker it is, the more will wind up squeezed out onto the front.

Appreciate it,

Steve.