first we prepair as much spare parts as the K needs

second the sandb. unfor nowadays enthusiasts went

to paint remover instead !!! ummmm my advice (no one listen)

that the sb. is better for stripping.

third (strengh. & straight. !!) 2 save m some enthusiasts stop

do it (assuming inner status wont affect the all in all outer shape!)

4th denting (chak chak chak chak by hammer! :stupid: do u call it denting?)

5th dipping or spraying by anti rust material (look)

http://00op.com/up/uploads06-11-01/1d727b45ab.jpg

http://00op.com/up/uploads06-11-01/2f4f3ff797.jpg

6t oven painting - 7th upholstery - 8th some like audio system

(I don't, I like the classic radio and tape. - 9th silencer (1" twin

stain s pipe)

Anderw, Gim, Kent, Lach , one of our biggest problem is to open the seven bolt linking the tail with the trunk (look at them so clear in my photo) when we wannaopen them they loos from bases :mad: (as u know plastic base

holding steel bolt in a square room for more than 30 y. if we use acytelyne heat will damage

the base. holding them by vicegrip, vg will dam the teeth! :mad: ???

I know exactly what you mean with the rear tail light nuts (but there are only six I think)!!

Is that your car pictured before it got painted?

4th denting (chak chak chak chak by hammer! :stupid: do u call it denting?)

5th dipping or spraying by anti rust material (look)

Anderw, Gim, Kent, Lach , one of our biggest problem is to open the seven bolt linking the tail with the trunk (look at them so clear in my photo) when we wannaopen them they loos from bases :mad: (as u know plastic base

holding steel bolt in a square room for more than 30 y. if we use acytelyne heat will damage

the base. holding them by vicegrip, vg will dam the teeth! :mad: ???

We call it panelbeating, it's good to have a friend who does it if you like old cars.

My whole light panel assembly came away from the tail section really easy but I had a hard time with those screws on the lights holding it to the panel, I got the first screw out with no worries. The second one I started to burr, I then invited a friend who's an electrictian over for "tea" in the garage and presented him with the lights. He proceeded to laugh at my efforts of removing the screws and took over the job.

I was surprised to see him remove every screw including the one I had burred without any problems. I can now say that I've been taught to remove hard screws properly. What he does is push down really hard and work at the screw a little at a time by repeatedly applying pressure (like a hammerdrill but turning instead of going up and down). Many of you will already know this but a few will be like me and just try to get it going in one go (like opening a jar of jam).

The only other hard screw I had a problem with was the bracket holding the front left brake line to the bottom of the front chassis rail, I had to use a impact driver socket and bit attached to a large breaker bar which was pushed up towards the bottom of the rail by a jack. It took about 10minutes to get this one out.

Every nut, bolt and screw is now in individual bags labeled waiting to get replaced. I have no idea how much this will cost but they're all going to be stainless from now on.

I know exactly what you mean with the rear tail light nuts (but there are only six I think)!!

Is that your car pictured before it got painted?

yah they only six .sor I just count them again....

this not my car (btw this is beeing restorated (not y finished) in a ws

that dose accept other than K's (110,210)

We call it panelbeating, .

sounds better

some call it tinkering

My whole light panel assembly came away from the tail section really easy.

yea this is metal to metal

but I had a hard time with those screws on the lights holding it to the panel, .

:mad: metal with plastic

push down really hard and work at the screw a little at a time by repeatedly applying pressure (like a hammerdrill but turning instead of going up and down). .

turning the nut or the screw?

The only other hard screw I had a problem with was the bracket holding the front left brake line to the bottom of the front chassis rail, .

when metal to metal use heating (oxg acyleline) so successful time saving tech, (care about nearby)

they're all going to be stainless from now on.

not too much (this is what I think about also, but we maynt get the same sizes.

240kconvertible

unless you can source & are prepared to pay for marine grade stainless parts then don't waste the effort.

the material you need is called '316' & is a pain to machine.

a method successfully used for many years in restoration is:

1. clean all the bolts/nuts & then plate with zinc (NOT cadmium as was originally used)

2. if desired have them irridite treated (for colour)

3. when installing them use a good quality white grease on EVERY threaded fastener

a trick I recently learned from my youngest daughter to remove really frozen parts:

heat with one of those dinky little butane powered hot air guns (looks a bit like an overgrown pen)

while hot apply a little candle wax

ok, I knew about and use the candle wax but I have NEVER seen such an easily controlled source of heat as that butane hot air gun.

didn't even melt the plastic parts within 2cm of the target!

240kconvertible

unless you can source & are prepared to pay for marine grade stainless parts then don't waste the effort.

!

Did I mention that my family build boats? check out www.scruffie.com

I've been looking into one of those little plating kits you see in the car mags, I have quite a few little bits like door latch etc etc that I want to do.

Don't worry I'll compare prices before I buy the stainless screws, I like to save as many $$$ as possible. Can anyone get a cheap price on the plating kits?

Bu Zamil

my freind was applyng pressure repeatedly to screws not nuts & bolts, all of those came off really easy on my car... maybe as they were all off within the last 10 years.

first we prepair as much spare parts as the K needs

second the sandb. unfor nowadays enthusiasts went

to paint remover instead !!! ummmm my advice (no one listen)

that the sb. is better for stripping.

QUOTE]

Sandblasting works great except for panels that are unsupported can and often are warped by it. Sometimes this warpage is not noticable until the car is painted. A textbook example of this is my hood.

Here's a link to a page I made which explains this further. I'm certainly not a Jedi master but I've learned a few things which might help so here they are...

http://warbuddies.homestead.com/RestoHelp.html

I sandblasted the underside of the hood then flipped it over to discover the nightmare I had created. This occured two years ago before I knew what the dif was between the siphon sandblaster and pressure pot. The pot is way faster BUT the pressure exerted on the metal distorts unless the metal is rigid or well supported. The siphon unit also distorts but to a much lesser degree it is also painfully slow. Most people can't perceive the warpage caused by siphon sandblasting. If you want a showcar finish and a dark color you will need to do some serious high build primer/sprayable polyester and block work if you strip panels by blasting.

MHO (but semi-experienced O)

I sandblasted the underside of the hood then flipped it over to discover the nightmare I had created. This occured two years ago before I knew what the dif was between the siphon sandblaster and pressure pot. The pot is way faster BUT the pressure exerted on the metal distorts unless the metal is rigid or well supported. The siphon unit also distorts but to a much lesser degree it is also painfully slow. Most people can't perceive the warpage caused by siphon sandblasting. If you want a showcar finish and a dark color you will need to do some serious high build primer/sprayable polyester and block work if you strip panels by blasting.

MHO (but semi-experienced O)

that is a very good point to bring up, great link too.. lots to think about!