priming the car

[Zs-ondabrain]

I was advised by our automotive paint store to try this product. It is sweet to work with.

http://www.autobodybrands.com/primers/5425_x2k.html

It is a direct to metal epoxy fill primer or sealer.

Just my 2Cs

Thanks alot JIM,

After visiting the site and reading up on it, I'm sold.... I'll be picking up a gallon this week. Especially after yesterdays little mishap on my cowl panel. I sprayed too much clear and the filler primer started to lift but settled back down but not before the clear coat hardened in the upright position.

Time to wet sand.....and sand and sand.... I'm still new at the whole "paint your own car " thing. Live and learn I guess.

Dave.

[a7dz]

After visiting the site and reading up on it, I'm sold.... I'll be picking up a gallon this week. Especially after yesterdays little mishap on my cowl panel. I sprayed too much clear and the filler primer started to lift but settled back down but not before the clear coat hardened in the upright position.

Time to wet sand.....and sand and sand.... I'm still new at the whole "paint your own car " thing. Live and learn I guess.

Dave.

That is the primer that is being used on the car in the pictures I sent you. I too am sanding and sanding and sanding. I am getting real close to the color stage. This car is a long ways from a year ago. .

[Zs-ondabrain]

Well I just got done wet sanding out the boo boos from yesterday and it turned out OK. I only had to touch up a small area on one of the lips because I stayed there too long and sanded thru the clear coat.

I touched it up with my air brush so it only took a teaspoon of paint and reducer. It dried quick then I cleared it with about 4 coats, so I can wet sand again without going thru the clear this time.

Now I have to figue out how to buff it properly without hurting all the work I just did. Back to Wesco for the right buffing equipment.

I'd still rather learn the hard way then pay some one else my hard earned money. Then if I get good enough, I can do side jobs and make a living out of it. Yah, that's the winning ticket!!!

[racebird1]

When you buff only wet sand any heavy orange peel or dust nibs. Make sure you stay with super fine paper reccomend not under 600 grit and use a three step polish system Compound, polish, and hand glaze. And be very careful of the edges and lips or you will burn through in an instant if you use too much RPM's or get to dry on the polish. I just hate to see a grown man cry. You put too much time in a good paint job to rush the polish. Once again watch the corners and edges.

[racebird1]

I have painted a few cars in the past so I do know a bit about refinishing however I am not that familar with por15. The more I read into it the more confused I get so maybe someone here can give me some good common sence help. I have a 76z that has some surface rust areas but not all that bad. The only place that is through is the bottom of the passenger fender. These areas are pitted pretty bad and I plan on sand blasting with fine blasting media at low psi to get the rust out. What POR15 product should I put over these areas. If I brush this on after using the prep. Can I sand and feather edge the POR15 to get rid of the brush marks. If the POR15 works so well on the bare metal what is there primer for? Is POR15 reccomended for the exterior finish areas. Any help here would be greatly appreciated. Jim

[ray67]

Fresh out of the chemical,go to the epoxy primer, It's moisture proof, then take your time and do the body work.

[Zs-ondabrain]

I have painted a few cars in the past so I do know a bit about refinishing however I am not that familar with por15. The more I read into it the more confused I get so maybe someone here can give me some good common sence help. I have a 76z that has some surface rust areas but not all that bad. The only place that is through is the bottom of the passenger fender. These areas are pitted pretty bad and I plan on sand blasting with fine blasting media at low psi to get the rust out. What POR15 product should I put over these areas. If I brush this on after using the prep. Can I sand and feather edge the POR15 to get rid of the brush marks. If the POR15 works so well on the bare metal what is there primer for? Is POR15 reccomended for the exterior finish areas. Any help here would be greatly appreciated. Jim

I'm not that sure on most of your questions but I DO know this......

Make sure you use the clean up chemical that they suggest!!! Use there por-15 Solvent or the laquer thinner that they tell you about on the can. CLEAN YOUR GUN IMMEDIATELY AFTER YOUR DONE SPRAYIN!!!

The reason I stress this is I STILL HAVE POR-15 COMING OUT OF MY GUN 6 USES LATER!! I cleaned the gun 2 times after spraying my suspension parts and still did'nt get all of it.

As for the primer question... I think it's a matter of adhesion. They say it sticks best to sandblasted and rough surfaces, the primer most likely gives your work surface that slight edge for the por 15 to stick to.

It will peel right off of shiny and slick surface, trust me, I know this one well.

I had to RE-rough up the surfaces that were too slick on my suspension then respray them. I knicked the surface after curing and it chipped and peeled off with ease.

This product requires the user to be maticulas at every turn of the job.

Hope that helps a little,

Dave.

[a7dz]

Beware that the lower part of the fender is rusty normally from the inside as the cowl drain deposits silt in that area and it stays wet. So, make sure you remove the fenders and inspect the front edge of the rocker panels also. This is a great place to use POR 15. The whole bottom of my 70 240 is done in POR15 to include the fender wells. It flows out nicely. Two things to be ware of one is moisture. The chemical process is activated by moisture. The second is be careful not to let the POR 15 pool up. It will get rough on the top side if you do. Seals the same just is not as pretty. I did brush most of the surfaces how ever I did spray the inside of the Rocker panels, cowl bucket, rear fender wells. UNDER NO circumstance spray this with out a respirator with organic filters!!! I can not stress this enough. I even wear a respirator when I brush it.

[a7dz]

I learned from a member here to use a solvent sprayer to spray POR 15. Works really well and is easy to clean up. Got mine at Harbor freight for about $ 5.00. Syphon some lacquer thinner through it when you are done and it is ready for the next use. Put the plastic tube in the can and go for it. Another member here put a fishing weight on the tube to keep it in the can. I used a clip I had for that very purpose. Used this to coat the inside of my doors and fresh air vents.

Do use the Marine Clean and Metal Ready per instructions. With those steps followed I have painted POR 15 over painted surfaces and it will not come off. I know part of mine was a mistake.

[Zs-ondabrain]

Thanks for all the advice Jim, If you ever up north in my neck of the woods, stop in for a cup of coffee or something. I'm off to wesco tomorrow for that Xtreme primer and some buffing pads and what ever else I can afford at the moment...

Dave.