I have another question. I would like to keep my stock radiator but its obviously over 30 years old. I have heard of boiling a radiator to clean it up but when I checked into it (at a place in Indianapolis) I was told that they may not want to boil it because in older radiators it could make things worse (ie. it may be better of in its current state). Its not in bad shape but it does have the usual corrosion when I look inside of it. Externally a good cleaning and new coat of paint would do the trick. And advice? This may sound weird but would soaking it/rinsing it with some of those calcium lime deposit cleaners work? Thanks. Carl

Carl,

I haven't heard of boiling a radiator, only gas tanks but I don't know everything. You can have the radiator pressure tested but that won't tell you how much, if any blockage you have inside. I've heard of others using CLR but haven't tried it myself or know how effective it would be.

Why not have the radiator re-cored, it's like getting a new radiator.

Bruce

You can try cleaning it out with a vinegar solution to help the deposits. Run straight distilled water for in it for a week. Then add just a bit of vinegar with water and run that for a week (no Longer than that or it could end up worse) Then run straight distilled water again for another week. Then add your usual antifreeze water combo. This will help get rid of the deposits in it. You can also buy a new radiator for about 170.00 from just about any parts store. You can also go with the JTR radiator conversion. I have this on my 280Z and it cools better than a stock radiator.

Boiling out a radiator will help if it's really gunked up inside. I had one done not too long ago, and it cost me $25.

This is what is in my radiator.

I'm trying the Prestone Super Cleaner (for neglected cooling systems). I'll update next week, after I've driven the required 3-4 hours.

Man alive David!

That's some kinda ugly looking $hit coming out for sure!! I zoomed in on your picture and almost :sick: :sick: :sick:

Please do give us an update on how this little experiment works out on your radiator. The before and after should be interesting indeed if it fixes this!

Jim D.

"Zup"

Provided the cooling fins are not coroded it would be best to take it to a radiator shop and they will clean it by takeing the tanks off and then clearing out the tubes. I just had mine done it was 30% blocked with rust and scale,

cost was $60.00 aus , that was just giving them the radiator only.

Dont forget to use a top class coolant I dont trust any of the after market

coolants ,I am useing a Toyota coolant but any O.E. JAP coolant should be good.

Cheers

If you haven't heard of a Gano filter, I suggest you might want to give one a try. This is a brass or clear plastic filter that goes in the top radiator hose. It traps any particles and stops them from going back in your radiator. The Ford 289 engine is famous for sloughing off pieces of rust, so many Mustangs use them. I bought mine from California Mustang. Use the small size for a Z.

Good luck.

Bob

To my eyes, it looks like oil is getting into the coolant suggesting a blown head gaskett.

Any chance you have been losing coolant or had other issues? What symptoms have you been having?

Al

To my eyes, it looks like oil is getting into the coolant suggesting a blown head gasket.

It does have that 'Cappuccino' look that usually denotes oil mixed with coolant.

Any chance you have been losing coolant or had other issues? What symptoms have you been having?

I have been loosing coolant for a little while, first noticed coolant on several hoses, and sprayed up on the hood. It looked to me that there was a leak in the radiator, and that coolant was hitting the fan-then being sprayed. I was concerned that the water pump was the problem, but it has stayed dry as a bone, with no discernable green coolant marks, unlike the upper radiator hose.

My original plan was to drain and clean the system, and try to find the leak. As a stop gap measure, I will be using bar's anti-leak stuff; however I didn't want to pour it into a filthy system.

I check the oil fairly regularly, and haven't noticed it becoming creamy (water in oil), nor has it been dropping in level at a troubling rate (though it does burn some oil).

I'll be draining the cleaning agent in a couple days, and will post photos of the results.

I'll also try compression testing the cylinders, just in case the gasket is blown.

Whatever you plan to do to the radiator, and I would suggest having it recored, remember that the coolant passages inside the engine, including the water pump, are going to look just like the photo you provided of the radiator.

Tom