Jump to content

Featured Replies

The dashboard in my car had some serious cracks along the top but I couldn't pull the trigger to send it off for rework because of the cost. I wanted to try to repair it somehow though, I had to try something!

Here's a few pictures of the cracks. Because of the limit on pictures in each post, I'll upload the balance of the pictures and the materials used after this.

Bruce

post-7867-14150798879653_thumb.jpg

post-7867-14150798880555_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/22325-dash-repair-processpictures/
Share on other sites

I beveled the edges of the cracks on both sides, this would enable the filling materials to get underneath the crack and have something to hold on to. I backed the cracks with simple masking tape and filled the cracks with Great Stuff, insulating foam sealant, available at Ace Hardware of course.

Here's a picture of the cracks after I sliced down the foam and the materials I used. I was concerned with all the voids in the foam. I had expected something solid but realized all those open holes would provide an excellent base for the SEM plasticized bumper repair which was applied next. I had to apply two coats of the bumper repair plastic. It was easy to work with and feather edged nicely.

post-7867-14150798881467_thumb.jpg

post-7867-14150798882341_thumb.jpg

post-7867-14150798883253_thumb.jpg

post-7867-14150798884034_thumb.jpg

post-7867-14150798884925_thumb.jpg

Very interesting work so far. I've used that Great Stuff on other applications (none automotive) and it is as advertised.

How do you plan on replicating the grain pattern?

Keep us updated!

Steve

After the repair areas were finish sanded, I scuff sanded the rest of the dash with 220 grit paper and cleaned the surface with SEM plastic/leather prep.

After that, I sprayed the complete dash with SEM's texture coating. I followed the directions on the can. I kept the spray nozzle approximately 20 inches from the surface and when the coating was finger dry, I knocked down the texture with scotch-brite.

I let the dash dry for 24 hours and then lightly scuffed the complete surface. I cleaned again with the plastic/leather prep and then applied two wet coats of SEM's Trim Black for my finish coat.

Here's some pictures of the finished product, it isn't perfect but it exceeded my expectations. I don't think I would have attempted this repair if the dash was in the car. Total cost was approximately $60 and maybe five hours of labor total.

Bruce

post-7867-14150798885797_thumb.jpg

post-7867-14150798886562_thumb.jpg

post-7867-14150798887331_thumb.jpg

post-7867-14150798888216_thumb.jpg

Very sharp for what you have in it! Looks better than it cost!

Now for the real tests, time, heat, and UV.

You are in agood spot for all three!

Will

That is amazing! Very good job. My Z is an Arizona original and the original owner put on a dash pad to cover the cracks - then the dash pad cracked. I may just have to try this, especially if it proves tough enough to withstand the heat.

Hi Bruce,

I've used SEM product to renew the carpets, center console and ash tray/fuse cover on my '71. However, I was not aware of these products. Great job! As Will said, it'll be interesting to see how it holds up.

Gary S.

You know, that SEM texture finish looks like it would be great for repaired 240Z consoles, too. Like Gary, I've used SEM in the past with excellent results, but not these particular products.

Create an account or sign in to comment

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.