The Coil on my Z is fine, but when I go to start it, I don't get any fire from my coil. My restrictor is also fine. I traced the wires down and I can't seem to find the problem. I am a new owner of a 1974 260 Z, and I have no "How-to" or "do it yourself" books to help me. So, any suggestions would be welcome. I NEED MY CAR FIXED! Help! I can't get to work without it!!! I miss driving it really bad. :sleepy: :disappoin

Welcome to the club.

Do you have the original points distributor installed or has it been replaced by a later electronic distributor? If its a points distributor, you can start by checking to see if the points are adjusted to the proper gap (.020") and for 12 volts to the + side of the coil with the ignition ON.

I presume you are talking about the ignition resistor mounted by the coil when you say the restrictor is fine.

I have an electronic distributor. I also don't have a meter or an indicator light to let me know how many volts I am getting. So...any more suggestions? Thanks for the suggestion hd240z

I suggest that you get a cheap multimeter or test light as a start. You can get a simple multimeter for as low as $16 at Radio Shack and probably a million other places. personally I'd spend a few more dollars but if budget is a consideration this will do.

Once you have that, it will be easy to check that you have 12v at the (+) positive side of the coil. If so is might be as simple as a bad high tension coil wire(coil to dizzy). if it turns out to be the combination switch, you're definitely going to need the multimeter.

It's very difficult to do any electrical troubleshooting without a meter. As a minimum, you will need one which reads DC volts and resistance (ohms). How do you know your coil and resistor are "fine" unless you check them with a meter? Some auto parts stores will test components like ignition modules for free, but you still need to troubleshoot the system to narrow down the problem. A Zcar repair manual like Chiltons or Haynes is very helpful and usually available for checkout at your local library if your budget is limited.

Good Luck

I am buying a rebilt 260 motor for my z,knowing that the motor thats in it is just about gone! I plan on buying a supercharger,lightwhigt flywheel,and headeraswell.I'm almost shur my z has an lsd. Along with some suspension work as well as a crbonfiber hood my deam z will be closer to riality!!!I will put pics and up dates on my z as much as posible.I am open to sudgestions,and new to the z world."Tanx!!!" Z_Panic

Are you aware that the Tach must be connected in order for the ignition to fire ?

remmeber, your 74 has two power supplies to the coil

# 1 is the start circut, which bypasses the ballast resistor

# 2 is the run curcit, which runs through the ballast resistor.

When installing the later EI ignition, the ballast resistor is eliminated, but both curcuits must still be used. The "Start" circut supplies power while turning the key. Once you release the key, the "Run circut takes over.

I see people in distress often, just after they've made the upgrade to the Nissan EI dizzy. They say "Hay! my car starts, but dies as soon as I release the key. Or It doesn't start even though the components are new. Both of these are usally the error of l;eaving one or the other of the two circuts disconnected

I checked the ignition resistor and the coil with a meter I got today and the wires that go to the coil. No voltage is running through the coil at all.

could someone please suggest something?

So there is no power in the wires to the coil? If that is what you are saying, you have a wiring problem somewhere between the battery and the coil. The usual suspects would be the ignition switch and the tach. You will need to start tracing the power leads backwards from the coil to find the problem. This is not likely to be a problem where someone can simply say, "Your problem is xxxx." It's going to take time and logical thought.