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Heat shield for triples


240ZGL

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Don't know how 'heat effective' it is, but I just put a flat sheet of aluminum, cut to size, on three studs that screw into the bottom of each of my Webers. I have it spaced off the bottom of the carbs by about an inch. I do know that it keeps the Weber 'gas puking' from dripping on my headers. Can't really post a picture, as my car is in the shop getting re-painted.

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I'm doing a triple carb set up and need to fab a heat shield for them. Does anyone have a pic of an unmounted heat shield tray type so I can see how it attaches. Thanks:alien:

I have an original Triple Mikuni heat shield I believe. I will look tomorrow and post a picture.

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I have trip-carbs but my shield is mounted and can't get a real clear picture of it. I built mine with two sheets of aluminum and in-between I put a layer of header-wrap and riveted the two aluminum sheets together much like a sandwich. It is 25" long and 6" wide. However, if I had to do it over again I would make it about two inches wider. The braces on each end are billet aluminum. The rear brace is bolted on to the last header bolt and the front is bolted with a brace to the thermostat-housing bolt. The pictures are not the greatest but may give you an idea. Before I made this brace I had another simple, single aluminum one. Without a doubt, this thicker shield is much better and dissipates heat better than my first one. You can drive 50 miles, put your had on the shield and it is just warm. The previous one was so hot you couldn’t keep your finger on it without burning yourself. The double layer and the header wrap I think did the trick.

(Can't get my pictures uploaded!!!!!!!)

BTW, what's with your paint code in your signature? 110 is red not orange....

Will, Am using horns but with a filter... here in windy El Paso, filters are a must....

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I have trip-carbs but my shield is mounted and can't get a real clear picture of it. I built mine with two sheets of aluminum and in-between I put a layer of header-wrap and riveted the two aluminum sheets together much like a sandwich. It is 25" long and 6" wide. However, if I had to do it over again I would make it about two inches wider. The braces on each end are billet aluminum. The rear brace is bolted on to the last header bolt and the front is bolted with a brace to the thermostat-housing bolt. The pictures are not the greatest but may give you an idea. Before I made this brace I had another simple, single aluminum one. Without a doubt, this thicker shield is much better and dissipates heat better than my first one. You can drive 50 miles, put your had on the shield and it is just warm. The previous one was so hot you couldn’t keep your finger on it without burning yourself. The double layer and the header wrap I think did the trick.

(Can't get my pictures uploaded!!!!!!!)

BTW, what's with your paint code in your signature? 110 is red not orange....

Will, Am using horns but with a filter... here in windy El Paso, filters are a must....

Try making the pics smaller( 600x800 or so, and less than 1mb(Mike changed these parameters today, but I don't remember what to)

Any chance of a pic of the horns and the elements in addition to hte shield(I wouldn't run without filters either)?-I know I have read your shield description on another thread.

Thanks,

Will

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In the pursuit to make it as light as possible I use very thin aluminum sheet and cut it to fit like fingers around the balance tube on the manifold and use tie wire to secure it on. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showfull.php?photo=22532

You can see the horns in my custom cold air box. The box seals up against the late model 280Z hood. I have oiled filter foam secured to the bottom of the stock 280Z hood vent which I use as my air intake. There is a duck bill drain in the bottom of the box to let water/rain out of the box.

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Will,

Have tried many different times and they are no bigger than 600X800 and still no-go..... I can send you an e-mail with an attachment if you want.... pm your e-mail..... Managed to get the shot you wanted into my gallery but no way am I getting it in this thread.....

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I'm going with the Dellorto's which have the accelerator pump on the bottom of the carbs, there lever operated. So the problem is to keep heat soak to a minimum. I like the idea of a thermal blacket on the bottom side or in a sandwitch of thin alloy. That along with insulating mounts between the manifold and the carbs should do the trick.

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