Hi All,

I bought a perfect NOS console for my 73 Z. I am replacing the original console because the mounting studs for the choke lever had broken off. The previous owner had then drilled through and used bolts. It didn't look good.

Not wanting to repeat this failure mode I would like to hear what others recommend for mounting the choke lever in a way that won't be as likely to break.

Also, what should I use to lubricate the choke cable?

Thanks!

Al

73 240Z 47k miles. 2nd owner!

Mine was mounted with two screws that had dished in washers.

I reinforced the choke mounting area with sheet metal and applied two-part epoxy putty around the holes where it attaches with the screws.

Aside from the repair methods, lubrication issues, and mounting methods that will be mentioned, the first and most important thing you MUST be sure of is...is that the choke cables DO IN FACT operate smoothly without any binds or kinks... and this before you connect to the carbs or mount the lever.

If there's ANY binding at all, then you're just going to multiply it once you attach / mount them.

If you do feel a bit of pull as you slide them in and out, then remove the cable from the sheath (straightening out the ends if necessary) and examine the wire. Any stray bends that can be discerned are the problem and must be eliminated as much as possible. Don't forget that there's only a few thousands of an inch give on each side of the wire cable within the sheath, it doesn't take much of a "bump" to become obnoxious.

Once you've addressed the cable, seek out why the cable was bent and straighten out the sheath, again as much as possible.

Lastly, when you mount the choke cable assembly, take a good look at how it's routed around the fuse box, the console mount bolts, the heater plenum. The path must be as direct as possible with the MINIMUM of bends. If you find that you must force /curve the cable ... you're already binding. Look and see if you can't re-route them to do less of a curve.

And the final item...make sure that the carbs are allowing that pull action and that it's easy to detect when you've reached the stops. You don't want the pull to be so hard that you feel as if you're trying to yank the carbs off the engine.

FWIW

E

I eliminated the whole problem by fabricating a bracket that attaches the choke assembly down to the transmission tunnel instead of up to the plastic console. This provides the additional benefit of being able to easily remove the console while leaving the choke cables and lever assembly in place.

Mike,

You got me curious. Did you attach it to existing mounting holes or did you have to make new holes?

Thanks,

Al

I eliminated the whole problem by fabricating a bracket that attaches the choke assembly down to the transmission tunnel instead of up to the plastic console. This provides the additional benefit of being able to easily remove the console while leaving the choke cables and lever assembly in place.

This is a "Product" that should be produced and sold. Mounting of the choke lever and cables is one of the few truly stupid things on the 240-Z.

FWIW,

Carl B.

You got me curious. Did you attach it to existing mounting holes or did you have to make new holes?

I did this 20+ years ago so I may not remember correctly. I fabricated a bracket out of aluminum and drilled holes in it that line up with the choke lever assembly. I used nuts and bolts to attach the assembly to the bracket. I then used sheet metal screws to attach the bracket to the tunnel. I don't recall there being any existing holes in the tunnel in this area.

A little searching turned up this old thread that shows 2 examples of tunnel mounting, including MikeW's setup.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14577&highlight=choke+mount

Awesome guys. Thanks!

Al

Here's a write up I did for our club newsletter a few years ago.

Aside from the repair methods, lubrication issues, and mounting methods that will be mentioned, the first and most important thing you MUST be sure of is...is that the choke cables DO IN FACT operate smoothly without any binds or kinks... and this before you connect to the carbs or mount the lever.

.

FWIW

E

I was fabricating a bracket for my choke cables and was on my third design . I mentioned what I was doing to EScanlon , and we had a discussion similar to what he posted here . I ended up pulling the choke wires out of the sheaths and found a few small bends that were rubbing . I coated the wires with white lube and reinstalled everything . The result is the choke is so smooth and effortless that I didnt need to go through the trouble of making the bracket. I agree with Carl , this is one more design flaw in out Zs . How ever with a little effort the chokes cable work smoothly and effortlessly . Gary thanks E. S.

I came up with a slightly different solution to this problem. I used a plastic friendly epoxy putty and reinforced the two bosses that are used to attach the choke bracket to the console. My old bosses were broken about half-way down, so I made sure to cover the tops of the bosses and push putty into the hole.

I waited until the epoxy was dry and then drilled and tapped two new holes. I then cut the heads off of two machine screws and used them as studs. I super glued the studs into the new holes.