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72 240 heater fan (honda mod) stopped running today...


dogma420

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Here's the scoop:

On my way home from work today, I had the fan on high, and it just stopped working. Besides installing the honda civic fan, that circuit is stock.

I swapped out all fuses one by one, and it never came back on...by the way, which fuse is for the fan? I'd guess it's the bottom right one, 'common' I think it's labeled.

Anyways, it never did come back on, I only drove about 2 miles when this happened.

On Saturday, I converted the alternator from original to the 280zx 60 amp brand new alternator and also modified the voltage reg plug with the diode exactly the way Dave and Arne have done with their plug, but I chose to just soldier mine instead.

Have no clue what would be stopping the fan, as this in 8 years and 100k of driving, I've never had this issue on this car.

Any suggestions?

I already searched, and didn't find much specifics.

Thank you in advance,

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Thanks Arne, yeah, I just found it...in the white plastic thingy....red-->blue. Blown....

The odd thing is the correct wiring diagram doesn't have any fan wires on it, but I looked at the 73 wiring diagram and saw what I needed.

No fan would've sucked with these sub freezing temperatures....I'm up on Skyline on top of the west hills in Portland, it's 28 degrees right now up here (1000+ feet elev).

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what kind of honda heater did you use ?off of wich car? cause my car is freezing and i need some heat cause my wife never wants to ride in it at night

There have been many posts/threads on this subject. This one states which blowers can be used. There are other posts/threads on the actual installation.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/search.php?searchid=363738

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Mr. Legend Z Car Club--

Welcome!!

You will find almost all questions answered if you search the forums for your topic. There is a search button near the top. When you click on it, there will be a text line to enter your topic..just like doing a web search.

For instance, for your question, I would enter "Honda Heater Fan" without the quotes. You will find a lot of information.

Usually, if you are entering a reply or posting a new thread, it is inferred that you have usually searched the forums and have found nothing on your topic.

By the way--the heater fan I'm talking about is one from a 1982 Honda Civic...(I think that was it, off the top of my head) and most people here get one from a junk yard, as quick, cheap fix. It looks just like the one that is on your 240z, slightly different on the outside of the motor, but it's made by the same company, and if you hook up the wires the same, it does blow the fan the correct way.

I would say it pumps out at least 50% more air on high, I think it was one of my best upgrades. If I wasn't able to do this upgrade, I would not keep planning to upgrade to AC next summer.

By the way Dave, I think that fuse blew, but can't tell, cause the thing was all melted, and I was trying to get it apart normal way, but it shattered while I was trying. I purchased a heavy duty black type fuse holder for it, and that will take care of it.

Do you think I should increase the amps? What was the original, 20amps?

Thanks,

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Dogma420

The orginial fuse is a 20 amp fuse. I would not go bigger as you want the fuse to be the weak link in the wire. If this fuse keeps blowing you have something else wrong. The fact that the fuse holder melted gives the clue that the fuse holder connections were corroded causing high resistence and heat. Since you replaced the fuse holder I would say you fixed your problem.

Mr. Legend Z Car Club

If you are having trouble getting your car warm there could be something else wrong. Is the air coming out of the defroster and heater vents warm or hot? If it is not already hot you will gain very little by increasing the air flow past the heater core. If it is hot and you are just wanting to increase air flow to speed up the process this fan upgrade works well. By increasing the air flow over the heater core the duct temp will decrease some but, the increased volume makes up for it.

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Arne hit it on the nose.... Don't go any higher than the original 20 Amp fuse. Doing so will cause the wires to heat up even more before the fuse blows. Resistance in the system causes heat, kinda like friction, friction causes heat, heat causes meltdowns, meltdowns cause fires, etc etc.

before running it on high for too long, double check all the connections for corrosion or weak points, such as squeezing the female terminal so that the male is hard to put in. This assures a tighter fit and less resistance, hense no more blown fuses. Just keep extra fuses in the glovebox.

This is all common knowledge that I'm sure you knew but I always go over it again to help those who are not in the know. Resistance is the major reason behind my headlight and parking light harness's.

It's also why I have recently offered up the Combo and T/S switch service.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=200711#post200711

Dave.

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  • 2 weeks later...

thanks guys i'll try to see whats up with my z... lately its freezing in there but i think it may also have to do with my heater core it used to leak a bit and now it doesnt so i believe that now it is cloged.. so..... i might have to buy or repair the one i have..... that has to come after my engine instal since she blew up after a show down in the mountains

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Legend--

If you think your coolant hoses aren't flowing properly, you can probably use your fingers just to check the heat of hoses in various positions, such as even on the engine side check how the 'to heater' hose feels in temp in relation to the 'to engine' hose. They should feel exact the same temp if you have the heater open.

Also, my heater cable has come undone before at the lever in the middle of the console...to fully open up the heater switch, I have had to hold the level to full/move at the same time as I hold that lever at the other end of the wire and force it open as well...it could be the cable is just not moving and it is not moving the lever to open freely.

This can be caused just by the cable's out sheath coming undone off of the holder on the back side of the lever contraption...imo a real weak point of the lever system (over time) in the climate control levers in the 240.

Lubricating , cleaning, and securing at that point better than stock has solved the issues for the most part on my z ...possibly replacing the cables would help too, I don't think all the cables stock oem are available, at least at MSA/Red Tiger VB...anyone else know?

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