Yes, more questions from the new guy

[mally002]

Hey folks,

I hope you guys arn't getting tired of me asking so many questions. I am learning from everything ya'll post so it really is helping. I am just so excited about my car that I can't stop tinkering with it, and each day brings more questions. This is my 3rd 240Z, however I was much younger when I owned my other two, and it was before the computer age, so this forum has been GREAT. So here goes:

1. I have a complete set of weatherstripping for the car, on a scale of 1 to 10what is the difficultly level. Are there any secrets or tips for installing the new or taking off the old?

2. I noticed today...(I went on a 40 mile cruise) that the shifter is making a noise when your running, kind of like something is bumping the shifter. You can grap the knob and hold it and it's fine, so it's like it's loose and rattling on something. Is this a bushing, or some simple repair?

3. Installing the emergency brake cable, how hard is it. Advice or tips, or take it in to Nissan or other.

Thanks in advance.

Randy

[zbane]

#1 No idea, never having done it.

#2 I remember reading about this some time ago, and the base consensus was that the inner boot needed replacing.

http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/0027.html

#3 I think it would depend on what you need to replace, again, I haven't done it (though I need to).

http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/0098.html

At any rate, good luck.

[hls30.com]

Sounds like your very first move should be to get a factory service manual-it shows you how everything is put together.

1) Replace then one at a time-peel the old one out, clean any adhesive residue off completely, do a dry fit to be sure the new weatherstrip will lof how to line up the weatherstrip. Apply ney adhesive and then the weatherstip, move on to the next one and repeat.Laquer thinner will remove the old weatherstrip adhesive.

2) The bushings in your shifter are probably gone-fallen apart and awy-and the pivott shaft is bouncing as you drive making the noise, and quieting down with the pressure for the weight for your hand, Bushings are about $5 at the dealer, easily replaceable, 20 minute job at most(assuming you ahave the parts. Remove the console(5 phillips screws), remove the boot (4 phillips screws), remove the E-clip retaining the pivot pin, and take out the shifter, clean it, inset the new bushings(Lube with silicone gel if you have it) nad replace in the reverse order.

3) It isn't hard, and is pretty simple to follow.

Will

[Carl Beck]

Hummm..... the Emergency Brake Cable..... changing it out... or replacing it after it's lost...

Lost?.... wonder why the previous owner didn't replace it?

It's simple as pie....once you figure out how to break the rusted, corroded, or gummed up with undercoating - length adjustment nut/stud loose.

It's simple as pie... once you figure out how the clips and mounts work. Once you figure out that you have to strip the cable itself, back from the cable shield - to get the cable and shield in/out of the body mounts. Figuring it out is one thing - getting your hands up in the right position to do it is another. (note: nothing to that as long as you have the driveshaft and rear-end out of the car)

It's simple as pie... to get the clips out of the mounts above the differential.... getting them back in, well that ain't fun...

It's simple as pie .... if you have the car up on a lift. Getting it up on jack-stands, at the right height that you can lay on your back, and have room to get your arm and hands up around the differential, yet not to much room that you can't reach the cable in the mounts........ Well, I'll just say that I'll finish mine up the next time I have the car on a lift somewhere...

It's simple as pie... If you remember, for the fourth or fifth time.... to put the e-brake cable back in place BEFORE you put the rear suspension and differential back in the car......da....

I hate to be cynical... but this is just one of my pet-peeves.... has more to do with me and my experiences than the actual design of the system... when it was put together with everything new... It's really simple... really it is.... no kidding... honestly...

I agree with Will - get a copy of the Factory Service Manual...

FWIW,

Carl B.

[mlc240z]

thanks for the morning chuckle, Carl.

ain't it the truth with most "simple" repairs?

[Ed]

If your replacing the windshield or hatch window seals you must cut out the stainless trim. DO NOT pull it out. It WILL bend and not go back into place. Take a boxcutter with a sharp blade. Carefully cut around the edge of the stainless trim on both sides. Then gently remove the trim without bending. When reinstalling they go in last. After the window and seal are back in the car.

I agree with Carl on the brake cable. IMO those pesky clips above the diff are the worst. I had to use a straight claw hammer to get to them. And yes you should remove the driveshaft.

[hls30.com]

Hummm..... the Emergency Brake Cable..... changing it out... or replacing it after it's lost...

It's simple as pie....

It's simple as pie...

It's simple as pie...

It's simple as pie ....

It's simple as pie...

It's really simple... really it is.... no kidding... honestly...

I agree with Will - get a copy of the Factory Service Manual...

FWIW,

Carl B.

After I took the time to type the suggestions for the first two it occurred to me...

"It isn't hard, and is pretty simple to follow":.........a soft bound Factory Service Manual.

Maybe I should have made my point simpler...

WIll

[mally002]

Thanks,

I ordered the service manual from Amazon on Tueday, still not here. Carl, you should take pity on me and fly to TN and do these projects.....for free of course.:laugh:

Anyway, thanks for the heads up on my "simple" projects. I actually may be able to start answering questions when I get through with my car.

Holiday Greetings,

Randy

[Ramses]

Randy,

I think you will find that after plenty of use that you may have to place the manual into a three ring binder. Good luck. It took me 2.5 yrs to get 90% finished. It is the last 10% that is the toughest.

Chuck

[DougN]

Sounds like a good reason to get to know your local Z-Car specialist and contribute to their holiday gift fund :classic:

[EScanlon]

If your replacing the windshield or hatch window seals you must cut out the stainless trim. DO NOT pull it out. It WILL bend and not go back into place. Take a boxcutter with a sharp blade. Carefully cut around the edge of the stainless trim on both sides. Then gently remove the trim without bending. When reinstalling they go in last. After the window and seal are back in the car.....

Ed is spot on except for one thing. The stainless trim will not survive being inserted into the rubber gasket without either cutting or chaffing the rubber or worse yet, bending the metal. It does take some experience and lots of tedious patient care to do it right.

The easiest and fastest way to replace the windshield or hatch gasket is to mount the rubber gasket on the glass, then while the glass/rubber assembly is still out of the car, insert the metal. Or metal first then onto the glass. The CORNERS are the last item to be inserted, and with care these can usually be done AFTER the glass is in place.

There are several tricks to installing the windshield glass, and some of them depend on whether you have the dash out or not. Personally, I'd remove the dash just to make the windshield installation easier, but that's my preference.

I presume that if you don't remove the dash, then you would have to insert the metal trim afterwards as Ed suggested, but you do need a special tool that spreads the rubber ahead of the insertion point of the metal trim.

Since I've always mounted a windshield from inside and with the dash out....and that was years ago, I don't know if the same technique would work for doing it from the outside. The last hatch glass I did, the metal trim was inserted first, then onto the glass, then onto the car.

You might check with a local glass shop, and for a few $ they might do the work for you. Better yet, get a new windshield and have them install it and you'd have a guarantee as well.

Just my 2¢

E

[beandip]

Not long ago I replaced all the seals on my Z . With Scanlons help . I had the local glass shop install a new windshield though. I have two in the attic but decided that the difference in having them install the new one and use my new old one wasn't worth not having a guarantee . The hatch glass as well as the windshield is a two person job. Hatch glass to my knowledge are no longer available so take care with it. Scanlon and I roped in the hatch glass and it went smooth . But he had done it before . When doing the quarter windows be careful with the metal frames when both removing the glass and old seals and reinstalling them. They can brake apart rather easy , so just take it slow and you will be OK . Another great source of information is Wick Humbles book '' How to restore your Datsun Z car" I have used mine extensively while doing my re-do of my 240 . Gary:classic: