'72 240Z quit...

[sblake01]

I have no experience with Webers on a Z but I do have a single side draft 40DCOE on my J16 powered 1964 Datsun L320 pickup. I went through problems similar to what you describe until I removed the vaccum advance and put a solid breaker plate in the distributor.

[Cethern]

Mr.Woofs

I live off I-25 and 84th. Z ppl are from what I have seen a great bunch of ppl I'm new to Z cars as well I bought my 75 this year. And as you'll see there is a lot of info on the web. http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/ http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html

http://www.atlanticz.ca/component/option,com_wrapper/Itemid,69/

Try these links the last one has a lot of tech tips but are geared to a later Z with Fuel injection.

There is a shop in Denver called Rallye/Sport 303-427-0510 Talk with Jeff he knows his Z's

And if you have the OEM Steering wheel I have a use for the horn guts...

Eric

[beandip]

In all of this , keep in mind that the engine , as you said , was running fine before. So something has taken place to change things . The temp is one thing but with a drastic change in performance I don't think this is it . I recommend on zeroing in on the ignition and timing. Depending on what Distributor or ignition you are running . The breaker plate could be at fault as was mentioned before. If that has gone gunnysack it could cause what you are experiencing .There is a book that I bought at Amazon.com two actually . How to modify your NISSAN & DATSUN ohc Engine , by Frank Honsowetz. It has a whole section on Weber's. The other one is How to restore your DATSUN Z CAR , BY Wick Humble . Both books are Fisher Books . both are great how to sources. While you are looking for the problem check the fuel pressure , it should be around 4 to 5 psi. But I doubt it is low pressure that is the problem . If the previous owner has installed a fuel pump that is giving a higher pressure and has a pressure regulator It could have failed and higher than 5 psi could flood the carbs by overwhelming the float shut offs. This is my input. Gary

[Curtis240Z]

You need some kind of improved ignition (electronic) to keep the plugs from fouling out over time. Also a wideband O2 sensor (air/fuel ratio) goes a long way to pinpointing your lean or rich spots. I use an AEM air/fuel ratio meter that fits in the stock clock housing once you remove the front glass.

[geezer]

Hi Brendan, I have a book by HPBooks. Titled WEBER CARBURATORS by PAT BRADEN. It is quite comprehensive with Theory of Operation & Design, Troubleshooting & Repair. It has Altitude Compensation Tables and Jetting charts, and a lot of other info. If you need any specific chart, I can scan it, but would recommend buying any good book on Webers, or find someone with the knowledge needed to tune them correctly even if your current problem lies elsewhere.

[seerex]

Welcome and congrats on your purchase, if you blew the tail lights can I assume you lost the guage lights as well? Do check the backside of the fuse box for build up of corrosion, it tends to look green , fix this issue quickly if the fuse regularly blows, otherwise you can end up with a melted fuse box. In reguard to the carbs if the car is running a stock ignition system I would recommend upgrading to an electronic ignition, easier to start and keep right. I would also seek a mechanic that has good expierence with webbers or other similar type of carbs <IE , a older jag , lambo , ferrari guys> , sometimes its can be expensive but often a bit more up front for someone who knows how to do them right saves money upfront. Some pics of the engine bay might help as well . Good Luck

[ZIII]

Once you get your carb problem(s) resolved, you may want to consider going to a wider gapped plug. I have had great success with NGK (BPR6ES-11). The last two digits 11, is what's important.... they allow for a wider gap and I have mine set at .48.

[lonetreesteve]

I was once told by a very well-respected Z-Car mechanic here in the Denver area (Bob Bush, owner of Fortunate WheelZ in Lakewood) that triple carbs (Webers or anything else) do not run properly at altitude. And keep in mind, Denver is at 5,280 and Steamboat Springs about 7,000 feet. If I were you, I would try switching out to the stock '70-'72 carbs and intake manifold. You could probably sell your triple Weber set up to some 240Z owner (living at a much lower altitude) for a lot of money on Ebay.

[Mr.Woof's72z]

Thanks everyone for the input, one a few other forums they've said the same thing: ignition. I don't have the SU carbs, but I don't feel like selling the Webers and picking up a stock pair since I will be out of Steamboat and high elevation in May.

Thanks for the fuse box info and yes I did lose the gauge lights as well. I don't have access to a digital camera (or the car for that matter until I go back west) but I am planning on buying a digital camera as soon as I make it home. Also thanks for the info on books, I've got a good selection that I'm going to look at online and probably pick 2 or 3 to help me out with this (and future...) problems.

Can you guys just list some setups as to what jets (air, mains, etc) you have in your Webers? That might help me later when I get back and check what jets I have. Also can some people give me a list of their current ignition setup and point me in the right direction in terms of distributors, etc. Thanks again for all the info, I'm itching to get back to CO more than ever now...

[Curtis240Z]

Thanks everyone for the input' date=' one a few other forums they've said the same thing: ignition. I don't have the SU carbs, but I don't feel like selling the Webers and picking up a stock pair since I will be out of Steamboat and high elevation in May.

snip..

Can you guys just list some setups as to what jets (air, mains, etc) you have in your Webers? That might help me later when I get back and check what jets I have. Also can some people give me a list of their current ignition setup and point me in the right direction in terms of distributors, etc. Thanks again for all the info, I'm itching to get back to CO more than ever now...[/quote']

Using the stock distributor the easiest thing to do is pop in a Crane XR700 electronic ignition MSA sells them.

Triple carbs can work at elevation it is just that they are not very flexible so if you jet them for a specific elevation (i.e. Steamboat) they will not run right at sea level. A wideband O2 gauge tells you if you are rich or lean and by how much.

[Mr.Woof's72z]

Thanks for all the help on the ignition system, the more info I get the better off I'll be when I get back. Where do they sell the O2 gauges you're talking about? What exactly will I need to do for it? I've been looking at switching to an electronic ignition system, the XR700 seems nice and I'm looking into a Mallory Unilite distributor, does anyone have similar setups?

[Curtis240Z]

how do you delete a post?