As I prepare for for this year's NFIBMT (No Frills Iron Bottom Motoring Tour), I'm shopping for a camera and roll bar mount.

serching the web has located some "Bullet cams" that connect to a camcorder, but I was more inclined to just mount the camera itself to the roll cage.

Anybody has expirence to share?

I'm not sure if it's recommended to use a camera with image stabilizer or not. But, you might want to check to make sure to check that out. Also, there are many new cameras with hard drives instead of tapes. If I used a camcorder, I would consider that feature because there are no tapes required. However, I'm not sure how well they handle the vibration.

How much are you looking at spending?

Most of the Cannons DVs have optical image stabilization-meaning that unlike those that have digital stabilization, you do not stablilze the shot at the expense of resolution. I have been through several of the upper end consumer camera(most recently the Optura Xi-just couldn't justify the XL2 for purely home use), and they have done wonderful jobs in every cirucumstance from handheld in a biplane cropduster to sitting on a bean bag on the dash. I would also suggest a polarized filter(video camera specific) to cut the glare from the windows of cars you pass(or heaven forbid-that pass you!)

What ever you choose, get it from http://www.bhphotovideo.com/ -they will match serious and confirmable prices, but can't be touched in terms of service-I've used them for fifteen years and never had an issue that wasn't resolved to my complete satisfaction or beyond.

Will

I have one of those DVD-Ram camera's works great... even has a remote...(comes in handy when your straped to the Corbeau seat...I even used it in my friends Porsche Cup Car... vibrations didn't hurt it at all...

You intend to record your entire trip on video? How about using time-lapse? Some camcorders have that function. If you take 1 picture per second, 2 seconds of video is 1 minute of driving. A camera with a good lens and fast focusing would give you good images so you can read signs, etc.

Wow thanks for the imput. Will, the Cannon Optura Xi sounds great, but the 1.4K was more than I was "shooting for".

David, What brand camera are you talking about? I did a search and saw quite a few. I'd worry that the DVD drive would error in the shake. Your Porsche, on a track is alot smother than my 510 on a dirt/paved/rutted back-country California road. I too will be strapped to a Corbeau, so the remote sounds REAL good! How much shooting time do you get. I'm planning about an hour a day (highlights of twisty sections)

Pegasus Racing suggests the Sony DCR-HC32 MiniDV Camcorder. But that's using their remote cameras. I was just thinking of the camera on the IOPort Racing roll bar mount. But it's $450 price is more inline with what I was planning on.

I got a month or so before I want it. I've seen some interesting things in the remote camera market. http://www.hoyttech.com/ sells systems that overlay gps information or/and G force (lateral, braking, accel) graphics. Whatever, impressed by gagitry as well as knowing that simple is best.

"...overlay gps information or/and G force (lateral, braking, accel) graphics, Whatever..."

Are we going to see your videos on ABC Sports or something?

No, I'm going to see them on Vic's Sports.

Victor,

We currently use this I/Oport Racing mount for the "tape" type camcorder, but the recording head picks up vibration at high rpms or speeds...

http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=CM&Category_Code=IOPP

This may be good for the larger old fashion type video cameras, but with the new smaller digital type camera or recorder a secure soft mount position on or in a seat works well.

We don't use image stablization, adds more problems to the picture. This is going to be something you have to experiment with from camera to camera.

Our old camera gets vibration even with rubber insulation between the mount clamps and the roll bar. Even though, it works good to watch your track session or driving habits at home after all is said and done.

We are going to a digital recording camera with a lipstick or bullet lens & external mic. You will want remote start/stop control too, so you don't need to be reaching for the controls on the camera.

We are investigating this system, since it has everything you need. This week they just upgraded to a newer or better camera than what is advertised but the price is still the same for the system.... I think about $550.00

http://www.upr.com/products/?id=4800&rsku=0

http://www.upr.com/images_products/4817.jpg

I believe a 1GB SD card gives you 20 to 30 minutes of hi-resolution time, and they have 2 GB SD cards too.

Here is another type of system ready to go and the media is computer ready to download, no conversion.

http://www.chasecam.com/recorders/pdr.htm

Might give these 2 companies a call and talk to them. I have had good conversations with the UPR people, but the camera guy is out till next week.

Good luck,

Craig

There are 4mb sd cards avaiable on ecost.com pretty inexpensively-I just bought a couple-be sure to meet or exceed the write/read speed that the camera needs.

Will

Victor I use a tape type video machine and an IO port mount that works well. Bullet cams work better because they have less mass and are less likely to shake because of less mass on the camera mount. There are several machines that have an AUX input that will allow you to remotely mount your camera and have the bullet cam in a location where a standard camera would not go.

Tom Holt has done a few interesting things with bullets. Mounted them on the fenders and such. I'd like to put one in the airdam, maybe in the rad opening. Nice and low to accentuate the speeds. Or maybe right at the top of the windshield, to get a better view of the apexes. So many places to mount the camera, so little track time. The one thing I'll say is that if you're going to mount it inside the cabin, mount it as high as you possibly can. Seen several where the mount was too low and you can't see enough of the road. Also clean the windshield if it is inside, and try not to run the sun visors down.