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Cam Sprocket won't Reach!!


viparz

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HI Guys,

I've built 3 race engines, and 2 street engines myself over last 10 years, without putting spring behind the tensioner....counting on oil pressure to keep slack out of the chain. I did replace timing chain and all parts new each time. I read in a "how to book" that spring wasn't really needed, and looking at installed chain, I agreed that engine had bad problems anyway to "skip" a tooth.

Please set me straight if this is somewhat foolhardy......Tensioner is not a problem popping out when adjusting timing this way, although I still use a block between chain as insurance.

FWIW....I have never built a high compression engine 10.5 or higher if that makes any difference.

David Spillman

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Didn't Nissan make a tensioner that wouldn't fall out. Or was that an aftermarket piece. I have had this happen to me a few times before, it really sucks. When I build my engine I hope to devise a way to prevent the tensioner from falling out. Not that I plan on removing the head, but it will make it much easier if I have to remove the head. Good luck.

Datsun Comp. or Nissan Motorsports made one but I don't think it's still available.

post-3797-14150799251366_thumb.jpg

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Didn't Nissan make a tensioner that wouldn't fall out. Or was that an aftermarket piece. I have had this happen to me a few times before, it really sucks. When I build my engine I hope to devise a way to prevent the tensioner from falling out. Not that I plan on removing the head, but it will make it much easier if I have to remove the head. Good luck.
Datsun Comp. or Nissan Motorsports made one but I don't think it's still available.

I'm going to have to keep a look out for one of those. The multi-post option really does work. Gary D.

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Hey I have comp of 10.5 approx with new chain.

I had to re engineer the slack guide position eg move up and over about 10 mm at least I have scanned it to.

the wedge system does not work any more for me.

I had to curve block of 20mm cutting board material to keep it in place

I have the chains about less than 23 mm apart.

Also try a rod bent in the shape of the guide to relocate the bugger

But if its been running out the end for awhile the pull the cover...

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