Which Injetor Connector?

[TomoHawk]

I'm starting into the process of replacing the fuel injector connectors on my 280Z

I have gotten the entire fuel injection hareness of an 88 BMW ( dunno which model tho, just the year) and it had about 40 of the Bosch injector-style connectors on it. Some had the usual smooth- style of rubber on it, and some ( the injector connetors) had a corrugated- style rubber on it. Take a look at he pictures below. I'd like some opinions on who likes which better. They both serve the same finction; the one is just a little fancier.

Also, Since I'll be splicing into the wires on the Z's injector harness, I would like to know what to use over the wires to protect them, like the L28's black plastic sheathing ( which is hard or brittle,) which I'll probably remove to get to the wires inside. I could just get some black insulation from 8 or 10 gauge wire, or is there a more appropriate material? Something very flexible to make the sharp bends near the injectors.

thx

[webdawg1]

The one to the left is more period correct as far as model year. However the one to the right looks like it (might) stand up better under the hood. it looks like it has more meat to it so-to-speak. You can also buy new connectors and boots from Wurth, See attached file. How about heavy duty heat shrink wire wrap. I see it on harbor freight from time to time. I got some to cover the wiring coming from the headlights where it hooks into the harness on either side.

www.harborfreight.com

webdawg1

[TomoHawk]

I think I saw somewhere some kind of heat shrink stuff that has a lubricated core (for marine use, I think.) That would go over the wires right at the connector, and you should be able to push it into the oem- style rubber so the wire doesn't bent so fast straight out of the rubber neck.

If I can't find any straight away, I could always make my own with a little silicone RTV stuff on the wire before shrinking the tube on.

[v_balge]

There's a good write up on injector connector replacement at http://www.atlanticz.ca

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/injectors/connectors/index.html

[TomoHawk]

What we are doing here is to splice a connector with wires already on it into the existing wiring. Just cut the wiring back a little, and connect the new connector with soldering or crimped butt joins. I think Stephen already mentioned that the polarity of the connector didn't matter.

[1oldmotorguy]

Did a bunch of searching for replacement crimp-on connectors for my fuel injectors, thermotime switch, and temperature sender. The old ones were in bad shape (crumbled plastic, corroded, etc).

The bosch EV-1 connectors are apparently the correct connector. I found a source for them that is far cheaper (on ebay at least) and easier to hook in to the wiring harness. They are not (sadly) fully original style connectors, but they do have some major advantages over the old style of connector.

These connectors have a point to push on the wire, and rather than attempting to cut, splice, and solder the connectors, you simply cut off one terminal at a time of the original connector (if necessary establishing/correcting electrical bias for the solenoid).

On my injectors, with the connector fitting facing you for the connector and the fuel rail side of the injector up, the positive (hot) terminal is on the left side of the injector. These injector wires are ground-switched, so be careful while checking the bias, as the injectors will be 'hot' for power if the ignition switch is on and the battery is connected.

A picture of this injector connector type (and purchase) can be found on Ebay at the following site.

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/change2e85?_rdc=1

under the bosch EV-1 connector.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bosch-EV1-Fuel-Injection-Replacement-Connectors_W0QQitemZ360073468595QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?_trksid=p4506.m20.l1116

Again, I stress that these are not original type connectors for the injector wiring. Those that are concerned with maintaining originality will not be satisfied with them.

They do have some major advantages, however, as you are far less likely to break the connector, lose the clips, etc. I would recommend placing some stress-relief at the take-off point of the wires coming out of the injector connectors. (plastic grommets or boots are not sold with the injector).

By pressing on the upper clip, these connectors will automatically disengage, without losing the connectors. They are used on the cold start valve, each injector, the connector for the thermotime switch, and the connector for the temperature sender.

The actual terminal connectors appear to be plated for corrosion protection. Planning on putting these on my car this week. (along with a new clutch, and changing the transmission oil to Redline MT-90).

These connectors are also available in a slightly different style from

http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/942

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/fuel-injector-connector-bosch-p-111.html

another vendor is http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RC-Engineering-Fuel-Injector-Clips-Connectors-Bosch-EV1_W0QQitemZ360132346825QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090217?IMSfp=TL0902171110009r35474

I looked for the original style connector, it may be available out of Germany with the rubber pigtail. Still hunting those. Here's some more original style connectors.

http://osidetiger.com/FuelInjectorAccessories.aspx

These are sans the rubber boot.

http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/Injector_CONNECT.asp

again sans the rubber boot.

http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.php?products_id=471

Crimp-on connectors, with the rubber boot. Seems like a far better bargain, and these are far closer to original style.

Note, I'm not saying any of these sites are good places to buy them, simply offering alternatives for people looking to repair/replace the injector connectors which (like mine) were corroded, worn out, cracked, or flat out missing. After all the searching I did (still being a newbie and all) I hope this info helps.

Started to post this in its own thread, found this one while searching.

Edited March 9, 2009 by 1oldmotorguy

[sblake01]

You're bringing back old threads. We've already been through all of this and moved on. The polarity doesn't matter as all the connector does is complete a ground.

[280~Master]

I did mine about a year ago with the style on the right. mine were off of a BMW also. When you go to replace the connectors, the wires are numbered from the ECU to each component. 51, 52, 53, Ect Ect. Just for giggles I would keep the wiring inorder for the future you never know.

[sblake01]

I kept them in order also but it really doesn't matter as far as the systems operation but it does make it easier if you ever want to trace the wires or check continuity etc.

[1oldmotorguy]

If I might remind the gentlemen that the purpose of this post was to offer alternatives, keep the information, as much as possible, within a single thread, and to offer information.

It has been discussed before, yes. When I did my searches, however, many of the parts numbers, websites, etc, had ceased to exist.

I was excited to be able to offer information on the subject, after extensive searching, as well as alternatives for those not demanding original parts.

if this was in error, I apologize.

[sblake01]

No apologies are necessary, It's just that it's been done before. This link is to one of the many on this subject.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22929