Getting ready for paint and body...Advice needed

[mally002]

It's time to get the body work and paint needed for my 73 240. I got several quotes for the work and will take the car in next week. I have already pulled off the bumpers and all emblems, and washed the grim off the car. What else should I do to the car before taking it in?

Should I remove all the weatherstripping?

Here are the before and after shots of the car, so if something sticks out that I didnt remove let me know.

Thanks,

Randy

[Carl Beck]

Hi Randy:

Headlights

Parking Lights

Side marker lights

Tail lights (and finisher if it's not already off)

Take the rear latch/lock out of the tail gate

Take the door handles and locks out of the doors

Remove the radio antenna

Drip Rail Trim

Door panels and exterior stainless door trim (rubber wiper on the outside of the glass)

Pull the interior plastic panels, and remove the rear quarter windows.

Take the hubcaps off....

Take the headlight buckets off - and take them with the car to the body shop.

If you plan or if the bid - repainting the door jam's and rear deck threshold area - YES you have to remove the weather stripping.

Have the Body Shop - call a professional if necessary - and pull the windshield and rear deck glass - or have a professional glass man come to your house and remove it - You'll need to get new front and rear glass seals for the reinstall later. This is the only way to avoid having a "repaint line" around the seals.

What you failed to tell us - is "what are you having painted to begin with" -

a) just the top coat of the exterior of the car

door jambs, rear deck threshold, and jam's

c) are you retaining the original color?

Point out to them - any area's you expect to be mask-off or covered.. like the bumper mounts, or the area under the lip on the rocker panels - you don't want over-spray all over places it shouldn't be.

good luck,

Carl

[MikeW]

It's difficult to answer without know what kind of paint job you're getting. If you're just trying to save them a bit of work by doing stuff yourself that's certainly nice of you but any decent paint and body shop will certainly end up doing all of this themselves and more. The guy that did the work on my car removed all of the glass, tail light finishers, horns, etc., and even took the doors off several times just to make sure that all of the body lines were just right.

On the other hand if you're paying for a $200 quicky job where they spray right over the dirt and grime then you're certainly on the right track ...

[mally002]

Carl......THANK YOU,

I have never done this before so your advice is invaluable.

I am having the whole car done. There is one rust hole on the drivers side runner and surface on the passanger side. The shop said they would cut out all the rust areas and put back with metal. They will also be painting the whole car back to it's original color, I'm not changing it.

They will also fix all dents and dings.

They (the shop) did state that they would have the glass company come out to remove the windshield and hatch glass. I already had ordered the rubber seals and have them in hand. I will also be replacing the windshield at that time with new rubber. (Should I keep the original, is it worth anything?)

They are also going to fix the drivers side door, it never shut correctly.

The quote I received was $4100......Does this sound resonable?

Thanks again for any advice

Quick edit from mike's post....

I am looking to get a very nice paint job and the body work fixed. The manager of the shop stated that I could shave off a few dollars by removing any items I felt comfortable with.

[moonpup]

If possible, you should remove the following and have these items painted off the car:

a) hood

doors

c) hatch

d) windshield cowl panel

e) gas lid door

f) front valance panels

g) headlight buckets

I'd also gut the doors so that they can be painted both in and out thoroughly. With regards to the weatherstripping, besides being over 30 yrs. old and probably needing replacing, you'd have a much nicer paint job with them out. Plus you just might find rust hiding under them and this would allow you the opportunity to deal with it now and not later after it pops up and it ruins your new paint job!

[JimmyZ]

I have a friend down the street who has been in the business for 26 years. $4100 is not bad but it really depends on the level of work they do. My buddy has charged up to $10,000 for a proper strip and repaint. (More in a few cases) To me, painting the car completely disassembled is the only way to go if you truly love it. (Needs to be painted all at once for best color match) This is a pain and requires care during refitting and also happens to cost $$$.

The question you have to ask is how meticulous do you want them to be as far as eliminating rust and it's chances of reoccurence? This is what really makes the diff. You will almost always find rust underneath the winshield/rear glass areas. The degree of treatment determines how long it will take rust to resurface if at all.

Here's a link I made for such issues. It is far from being authoritative as I have only done a few cars. What I have seen is how long lasting the repairs I made were as compared to other, more common treatments.

http://warbuddies.homestead.com/RestoHelp.html

My emphasis/belief is that the metal underneath, not the paint on top is most important. (Yes paint is important too) Most bodymen know what it takes to treat metal right but they often cut corners in the name of saving time/labor. My wife's Volvo is an example of this mentality. It has sheet rust beginning to bubble through in certain areas indicating careless work.

My 2c

Jim

[Carl Beck]

Hi Randy:

OK - given the goal and prescribed process - I agree with moompup. For a $4100.00 dollar paint job on a fairly clean 240-Z - I'd expect the body shop to remove all bolt on panels - and panel paint the car.

Get a clear understanding with the body shop before you take the car too them - and always get a detailed list of the specific tasks to be performed. When I'm dealing with a new body shop (new to me) I always make a list myself - then sit down with the shop manager and go over it... When you reach agreement as to what's in and what not - have him sign it. If he won't - go somewhere else...

I put all the issues on "me wanting to clearly understand and write down so I don't forget"... not on the body shop for not writing a proper and complete estimate to begin with - they are always very vague... and always lump many individual tasks into a single statement "Paint the Car"...

If your working with a good shop - they won't mind your "newbie" questions at all.

I make a list something like this: Provide a copy to the shop manager, take notes on your copy as you discuss the items with him... when your done, sign his copy and ask him review your notes and to sign your copy.

I Will:

A) deliver the car to the shop with all chrome, lights, trim, removed.

I will strip the interior plastic panels, door panels and door hardware (windows, regulators, handles etc). I will strip the door thresholds, carpet and padding.

C) I will expect a very professional job of body work and paint , to at least the standards of the original factory finish - however I fully realize that I am not building a Show Car, nor do I expect an $8000.00 job for half price.

D) I will be stopping by the shop at least weekly - to see the progress, take pictures of the work in progress for my records. This is also important to have should I ever be forced to resell the car.. I have to be able to assure any future owner that the paint and body work were done to professional standards.

The Body Shop Will:

1. remove all bolt on panels, and assure all fasteners are properly removed and replace.(no rusted nor busted bolts/nuts/washers left in hidden places, none left off the car)

2. all rust damage will be cut out and properly metal patched. No body filler, filling holes.

3. no body filler of any kind is to be applied to bare metal - all metal will be first repaired, then sealed with an epoxy primer - and any body fillers will be applied on top of the sealing primer.

4. the engine compartment will be completely sealed off - before any work is started. Above and below. Any wiring harnesses exposed in the front of the car will be mask off/sealed and NOT painted.

(note - matter of fact, since your removing all the lights - remove the horns, and have them pull the wiring harness in front - back behind the radiator core support before they paint).

5. the car body, all body panels, door jams, rear deck threshold and jams, the front inner-fenders at the headlights will be properly prep'd and painted. (you need to look at this area, and show him where to break off the new paint - you may not want to paint the radiator core support , for example.

6. complete my car within 120 days. ( professional work at a professional schedule - anything less should cost less). I do not expect my car to become a "hanger queen", or a side job pushed aside month after month. If this is not acceptable - and agreed to - say so before we start.

I usually offer a 10% premium for work completed on schedule - and expect a significant discount for work that runs more than one month over schedule. Most shops appreciate this - I give them the "premium" as cash on the side if necessary. Believe me - an extra $400.00 to get your car done on time and back in your hands is worth every penny!!

- - - - -

I'm sure there are other thing I'm forgetting... walk around the car with the shop manager when you drop it off - and answer any questions he has about what you want...

Good luck... always remember that it's your money your spending and if you don't tell them what you want - no telling what you'll get.

Carl B.

[Ramses]

I removed everything. I was trying to get rid of the rust, floor pans, all quarter panels and runners. Here is a pic of how it looked after paint. My paint and body cost only $2500., but took over a year. They were doing it while not busy on insurance cars

[jmark]

Does the $4100 include the engine bay? My son's '78 280Z was $3300 but did not include the engine bay & there was no color change either. I learned alot on this paint job.

[mally002]

No, it does not included the engine bay. Were you happy with the turnout and price? what all did you learn.

Thanks,

[jmark]

No, it does not included the engine bay. Were you happy with the turnout and price? what all did you learn.

Thanks,

Yea the guys did a nice job. They used it as filler work and bit off more than they planned on. They will stick to insurance work next time. Your price seems reasonable. Get your expections down and signed off before work starts.

[Mike]

Tell your shop to paint all the parts at the same time using the same mix of paint. I've discovered that paint mixes can vary in tint depending on how generous the "mixer" is when he/she blends the colors together to make the right color.

In my case, I waited a few years between painting the headlight buckets from the fenders and now I have two different colors.

Also remove all the glass and exterior bits (handles, lights, etc) if you can.