Door hinges

[a7dz]

I am in the process of restoring a series 1 240Z build date 6/70. The lower door hinge full hold open mechanism has been damaged on both sides and the spring is missing on the passenger’s.

I tried to replace them with series 2 hinges but, the lower part of the door does not fit. There is a tapered gap from the top of the door to the bottom both front and back and the rocker panels have a gap or over hang of 3/8 on an inch. Removed the series two hinges placed them on the bench and measured the distance from the bench top to the center of the hinge pin. The series two hinge is 3/16ths of an inch taller then the series one hinge.

I reinstalled the damaged series one hinges on the car and the door fits as they should.

Has any one changed from series one to series two hinges and not had this problem?

Note series one hinge is on the left the seriers two on the right.

[JimmyZ]

If you need something fabbed I have a milling machine and lathe. Does the hinge itself need machining? What a headache. This is the only way I can see to make it work and still look OK.

Thought I'd give the post a bump^

Jim

[240jetjoc]

a7dz

The hinges should work just fine. I've done the swap to the newer hinges, with the partial-open detent, on my modified series 1 (9/70). No problems.

Door adjustments can be very difficult, especially if you're trying to do it without help. I'm not sure which year hinges you're using, but I believe mine came off of a 72 or 73 240.

Best wishes, and let us know how you resolve your hinge problem.

[TVollnogle]

I've exchanged PM's with Jim (a7dz) about this and was in the process of changing the hinges on my '70 restoration project when I got the info on the possible problem. My doors are at the painter's being epoxy primed right now, but when I get them back in a day or so I'll try installing the later hinges I have and hang them on the body to see what happens.

Terry

[Arne]

I have chatted with Jim, and also have later hinges on the driver's door of my yellow Series 1 and can confirm that the door doesn't fit properly. The problem is the same as Jim describes, the door is kicked out at the bottom.

[JimmyZ]

Just an experiment... I'm sure you've done this. Lay both hinges on something flat and butt the plates together. This could help you figure out how far off the bolt patterns are. If I'm reading this right the door sticks out too much with the new hinge.

One solution would be to mill a slot in each of the door-side holes of the hinge to allow for adjustment. (In or out) If you wanted to be a purist you could braze or use a nickel rod to fill the slot a bit. I think the hinge is iron which is why nickel rod was mentioned. (Stick weld w/Ni)

My Z came from the factory with a shim under one or two of the hinges. At least it looked like factory.

It might be cheaper to have it milled at a local shop but I would be glad to do it for you if need be.

My 2c

[Arne]

Just an experiment... I'm sure you've done this. Lay both hinges on something flat and butt the plates together. This could help you figure out how far off the bolt patterns are. If I'm reading this right the door sticks out too much with the new hinge.

Yup, it's been done. A quote from the original post that started this thread.

Removed the series two hinges placed them on the bench and measured the distance from the bench top to the center of the hinge pin. The series two hinge is 3/16ths of an inch taller then the series one hinge.

[JimmyZ]

Is it an issue of hinge centerline lining up with the other hinge or just door positioning/adjustment?

[a7dz]

On a 240 hinge there is no adjustment in and out from the door post (except to shim the door further out). The hinge mounts to the door through a tight set of holes that do not have room for adjustment. I have taken the time to slot the holes on the series II hinge so the door could move in. The edge margin of the bolt hole on the hinge and the gap between the door skin and the hinge then came into play and I could not get the door to hang flush with the other body panels on the car. The adjustment in the hole as far as centering is not a problem. The gap is even all the way around. Having the center line of the hinge further away from the door post pushes the door further out at the bottom of the door. The 3/16ths of an inch at the hinge gets greater until you can throw a cat through it at the bottom.

I would not be asking this question if the original hinges did not correct this problem. The doors hang flush and centered in the hole with those installed.

My next thought is to get another set of series I lower hinges. If I can not find them then I can make a set with parts off of one lower hinge with a bad hinge pin. I don't even need a good one all I am looking for now is the mechanical full open mechanism and the spring and if I could just get the spring I can make what I have serviceable. Will take a little more work but, I am on for that at this point. I am thinking my best bet to find what I need is off of a passenger door. The spring and mechanical full open mechanism are the same just flipped upside down from side to side.

Thanks for your help.

[JimmyZ]

Trying not to be a pain in the a** but can't you just grind off the offending extra meat on the series 2 hinges. (Might need to use allen bolts for affected areas)

Sorry but from the initial post I couldn't grasp whether it was a hinge CL prob or hole prob... just knew it was off. I have my hinges out at the moment and am well aware of the lack of adjustment on the door side. Tight holes.

It would be nice to see the original hinges rebuilt. I've tried having springs custom made but it is 3-4x as expensive as buying something mass produced.(Big springs) Most custom spring mfg's won't give you the time of day for doing just two springs. Small springs like this are easily made on a lathe though. Just need some music wire of the right size. You might also be able to get away with modding an innerspring off discarded cyl head parts. (Cut to length and use torch to fold over new end on spring) I've got a ton of springs from heads. If you would like, take some measurements and maybe there is a match in the pile. Coil thickness, free height, etc..

[JLPurcell]

I have a 70 parts car. I know that the right hinges are good have not checked out the left. If you need them you are welcome to them, just pay shipping. JLP

[a7dz]

I thought about cutting the hinge base down but, to get where we need to go with at least this set I would end up with at least half the thickness gone. Then I wonder about metal fatigue and the hinge center line planes. But it has crossed my mind as well. I would still like to keep the original look.