It doesn't seem to be too easy to find an old-fashioned sealed-beam headlight these days. Halogen prevails.

I don't expect to do a lot of nighttime driving, and I'd prefer not to get into harness and/or alternator upgrading (I've got a '73).

So my question -- how much current or wattage do you figure the original sealed beams took?

There's an Osram/Sylvania bulb (halogen), H60242, that is pretty modest in its spec -- 40/60 watts low/high.

Can I get away with this?

TIA,

Steve

Wattage isn't the issue, Steve. Amperage is the big deal. The stock headlight fuse is 20 amps. An average halogen 55 watt bulb is said to draw a bit more than 5 amps, so two of them are less than 15 amps. So if your wiring is in great shape, you should be fine.

But the odds are that your wiring may have a fair amount of resistance after 30+ years, which is why the relays are so strongly recommended.

That said, for the time being I replaced the original Koito sealed beams in my 240Z with some low-cost Neolite H4 lights. (Went with the Neolites because they have a round face similar to the sealed beams. Didn't want to have the flat face of my preferred Hellas in the 240Z.) I do not have any relays in mine, but as a low mileage car my wiring is in better than average condition. But I still plan on using relays before I start driving the car a lot.

Also Steve, by using relays you are not running high amperage through your switch.

Ah yes, the 20-amp fuse. This is great, thanks Arne.

Watts = amps x volts, no?

My car has about 135K miles, not too bad. I think I will try the 40/60 watt bulbs, avoid the high beams, and simply check for warmth in the wiring...

These bulbs are also pretty cheap. A curious thing is that the Sylvania H6024 is spec'd 40/60 watts, where the GE H6024 claims 35/65.

--Steve.

Steve;

Everything looked good in mine too. I replaced the right headlamp with the same as came out (GE 6012) and in less then a week I had the fuse box melt down. Save yourself a lot of greif and get the relays installed and be done with it. It is very cheap insurance. Good Z's are getting harder to find every day. No reason too let a known problem take yours out in a fire.

Actually, the Headlight (L & R) fuses are each 10 Amps, whether you run them on High or Low beam. The original lamps were rated as 50/40 Watts.

The problem with the old wiring is that many of the splices, and connections as well as other spots where the wire element has been exposed to the air is where they've corroded the most....and well INTO the wiring insulation that covers the wire. As such, it is at these various spots that you end up with a large build-up of heat induced by the added resistance of the corrosion on the wire.

By substituting the Headlight Relay Upgrade, you are quite literally...replacing ...the lighting circuit to your headlights with newer and higher amperage capacity wire. That is why you'll see it recommended so often.

FWIW

E

So far:

The upgrade harnes:

1) Saves fuses and fuse box-maybe even the car!

2) Saves headlight switch

3) Makes the lights brighter-sends current to them istead of loosing it to heating old wires l

4) leaves more CURRENT for other circuits like wipers, blower, or radio, improving theIr performance as well.

I bought one of the first ones for just two of those reasons!

Will

Steve - An alternator upgrade would be less needed with the use of relays. You are using less wire, thus reducing the resistance, which translates into a safer more efficient system eliminating the heat, which in my opinion is downright dangerous. It's not an overly expensive upgrade and will give you pease of mind. I know this doesn't deal with your original question but I think most experts will tell you this.

Will - You are still faster than me, anyways.

I wouldn’t hesitate one second in putting in relays…. As Jim & Will have already said, it is cheap insurance. It just makes good sense. I have got both of Dave’s wiring harnesses and they are GREAT. You can check them out at: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=20365

I am running Cibie headlights (60/110 H-4), and PIAA driving lights and the road REALLY lights up plus my dash lights are now brighter. Of course, it doesn’t hurt that I also have a 105 alt but you will cross that bridge soon enough. It’s just that in this case sooner is better than later.

Steve , I also have a '73 and went with the harness that is being touted . I am not sorry one bit . If you are concerned that the set up will look hatchet . Believe me it is first rate. I have installed Hi wattage H-4 and am VARY glad that I did. Even with the 90/100s I am still running the stock alternator and have not had any trouble . With the head lights on the fuse box stays cool completely where before it would heat up even with the old sealed beams . If you save your multi light switch alone it is worth doing the new harness . Price one of those . With the head light harness my dash lights are brighter also . In my opinion , not installing one is a mistake. Gary

Will - You are still faster than me, anyways.

-I would say I am more long winded-sorry!

Will