clutch adjustment/Question

[bobc]

Hey, I've read the previous posts and the manuals and I'm a bit lost in determining what this problem is.

First here are the facts: (1970 240Z all stock)

1. The clutch let's out at the very top of the pedal.

2. There is no slippage

3. Shifting can be slightly difficult, particularly grinding going into reverse sometimes.

4. When I set it up by the book, that is, took out all the free play on the arm (with the spring off) and then backed off the set nut by a turn and a half, the car would not go into gear.

5. I've reset it a number of times, but still same problem so I eventually started turning out the nut until I could shift easily and still have no slippage.

6. System has been bled thoroughly and has new fluid

The questions are:

By turning out the set screw, that should be pushing in on the pressure plate and causing slippage, but I'm not getting any, why not?

Why can't I set it up properly? Is this a sign of the clutch disc being worn out?

Could a problem with the clutch master or slave cylinder be causing this by not pushing out the rod far enough? There is no leakage from either.

Any suggestions on setting this up? My other Z's clutch is fully engaged by about 1 inch off the floor. It is fully engaged long before letting all of the pedal out where this Z's clutch feels like it's only engaging at the very top of the pedal.

Another member said that when I get around to changing the clutch, to use stock Nissan 280Z parts. He said this clutch set up was much better and a direct bolt in. Can anybody confirm this?

Thanks again. This board is so helpful!

Bob

[Arne]

My first thought is that there may be air in the lines which means the slave cylinder won't push the whole amount of travel. Have you bled it carefully recently?

[bobc]

Arne,

Thanks, I should have put that in the facts as well. Yes, the system has been bled thoroughly and has new fluid. I updated original post.

[ktm]

I could swear that the adjustment procedure for a 70/71 slave cylinder was to turn the adjustment bolt until it just touched the clutch fork. You do not want to take out the clutch fork play, otherwise the release bearing will be pressing against the pressure plate fingers.

[Arne]

There are two adjustments for the early clutches. One at the slave, and the other at the master pushrod. The slave should be adjusted so that it just touches, and then backed off about 1 1/2 turns. The master cylinders pushrod should be adjusted so that the face of the clutch pedal is 8 inches from the front floorboard. Before adjusting the pushrod/pedal height, make sure to back off the pedal return stop so that you know the adjustment is accurate and not with the pedal sitting on the rubber stop.

[bobc]

Eureka!!! I spoke to a local Z shop and the guy there recommended that I change out the slave cylinder. He said they were notorious for failing, so I thought what the heck, it made sense, so I'll give it a try.

I changed it out and set it up again exactly by the book. 1 and 1/2 turns off of no play and it works beautifully. Let's out about 1 inch off the floor, engages smoothly and grabs tightly.

So, if anyone else is having this sort of a problem -change that slave cylinder!!!

Thanks all for the help.

Bob