Reinstalling fender - caulk, foam?

[240ZX]

Just a little technical nominclature correction.....regarding the statement about the sheet metal annealing over time and becoming suseptible to cracking. Annealing is a process to bring the material back to a soft state using heat and typically a quench, where as workhardening (which is what is realing going on) is what I believe you intended to say.

Tom

[EScanlon]

Tom:

You're absolutely correct, I should have re-checked my memory.

If you reverse the term in the description that I wrote, it should be correct. \

The problem is that work-hardening causes the metal to achieve a degree of hardness that prevents it from flexing without microscopic fractures developing in the metal. Over time these migrate and join with other cracks and before long, the metal begins to crack along the stress line.

Look at the top of the Z's doors and often times you'll see the result of years of door slamming.

E

[EScanlon]

Steve:

What kind of nasty photo did you post that it's not approved yet?

E

[geezer]

Another question arises. There's a rubber nipple-like piece that sits in a hole

I've been wondering about that picture too! Questions about putty and all?

But I checked Steve's profile and his last name wasn't Crackpacker so, were safe I think. :stupid:

[SteveInOakland]

I appreciate your interest, fellas.

If anybody feels like downloading the photo, that can now be done here --

http://www.yousendit.com/download/bLIOjNFE4oB5TA%3D%3D

(Geezer, better not do it while your wife is around :-) )

Someone else might have better luck than I in uploading the shot into this thread.

Thx,

Steve

[EScanlon]

This should do it.

Apparently the problem is in that it was too big for the limits imposed by the site, and the error handling portion of the program is whack-o.

E

Now, as to what it is:....At a guess, I am going to guess simply hole plugs.

I remember them, and recall that I scratched my head....and put them back in.

Anyone else?

E

[SteveInOakland]

This should do it.

Apparently the problem is in that it was too big for the limits imposed by the site, and the error handling portion of the program is whack-o.

Now, as to what it is:....At a guess, I am going to guess simply hole plugs.

I remember them, and recall that I scratched my head....and put them back in.

Anyone else?

Thanks, man. I will put mine back in -- as soon as I can find the loose one. Speaking of loose, that's what makes the thing sort of baffling; it's both looser and deeper than your typical hole plug.

And thanks a heap for dealing with the photo. Something is whacko about uploading, for sure. The file was not all that big -- 316K, which is well below the limit and smaller than other things I've uploaded. I resized, used a different browser, tried to start a new thread with it -- the site kept going thru the motions of uploading, then showing no attachments.

--Steve

[EScanlon]

Steve:

Actually, even though the size of the file in bytes was ok, it was the size in pixels. That happens to me a lot too.

I've asked a couple of friends, and the only credible theory was that the ZG sugarscoop needed different attachment points than the standard Z scoop. If you'll notice, they're about the same size as the ones right by the fender's edge.

The search goes on....

E

[mlc240z]

looks like something to act as a standoff or cushion for the scoop. is there a corresponding indent on the back of the scoop?

[ktm]

Am I the only one that noticed the position of his jack stands? They seem awfully far back to support the front of the car with the engine. People have reported that by supporting the car that far back, the weight of the engine will distort the unibody frame. The distortion is not necessarily permanent, but when trying to align gaps it can make it rather frustrating.

[SteveInOakland]

Steve:

Look closely and you'll notice that I'm using a 45° PVC Elbow of 1-1/2" OD, which is then inserted into the cowl drain tube. The cowl drain tube is then clamped over the pvc elbow.

The clear pvc hose then fits into the 45° elbow and you cut the flexible pvc tubing at an angle. This angle cut gives you a long tongue of clear pvc which you insert into the elbow to follow the outside line of the inner tube curve. The intent is to NOT have a ledge inside the 45.

Remember you're essentially necking down the tubing twice within the bend of the 45.

Where it exits the cowl drain plenum, you'll again cut it at an angle, but this time facing towards the back of the car. Don't cut towards the front or you'll catch the edge into the air and you'll have crud blowing UP through the tube and then in front of your windshield. By facing BACK, the air is forced to venturi around and help suck dust and debris OUT of the tube, especially when it's dry.

When the material is wet the venturi is still enough to PULL water through as well as help disloge debris that may fall into the cowl. When you wash the car, pour enough water through the cowl to disloge any debris as well as dissolve any dried salts. If you note any change in the manner in which it pours out of the drain you'll know that you need to poke a length of weed-eater cable to dislodge it.

In the Pac-NW there are a lot of pine trees and I have a neighbor with a large Maple in her front yard. This is the system I came up with to avoid having the same problem that other's have had...rusted front fender doglegs that eventually causes the rocker panel to perforate and rust from within...and then emerge at the REAR of the rocker. If this happens, it is not at all uncommon to have a completely rotted rocker panel. That sometimes spells death for many cars.

The links to the pictures are from my gallery, the clear pvc hose hasn't been final trimmed since the fender is still off the car. I link it so that you can see that it will not interfere with the fender bottom once mounted and how it is behind the flapper valve.

HTH

E

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2601&cat=500&ppuser=1490

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2602&cat=500&ppuser=1490

I had a little trouble finding the ideal materials to do Enrique's exact design -- and again, many thanks for that.

This alternative, once you've located the materials, is quite easy to do. The hose simply goes inside the Z's cowl drain -- fits like a dream. Also to the good: it is incredibly lightweight so no trouble with it just hanging down off the clamp.

First photo shows what the hose is. On top of the bag is a male piece that comes with that kit. You will need to stick this (cut down) -- or something similar -- into the hose before inserting into the cowl drain. You need something rigid enough to resist the hose clamp you'll put over the whole thing.

In the second photo you'll see me holding an alternative piece to insert into the hose -- very good, tight fit. (You only get one of the other thing in the kit.) You'll also have to cut this one down. I ground out the inside of this fitting to bring the inner diameter up close to 1.25". A piece of thin copper or PVC from an under-the-sink p-trap might work too.

Steve.

[EScanlon]

Steve:

That is EXCELLENT!

That style of hose may even be better than what I came up with! Yours might also be useable in case the OEM Cowl Drain Hose has dried up and needs replacing.

That's another problem that can happen and then my method would not work (you have to have the original drain to connect to). The hose I used would require being heated carefully in order to be made to fit. With the hose you got from Ace, you might be able to connect it directly to the metal cowl tube and then just make the bends. Any debris that would catch in the corrugated sides could be washed away with a healthy dose of water as in my system.

GOOD JOB! :love:

E