Question on replacing shocks

[ddezso]

I am preparing to replace the worn shocks on my 70Z. I've never done this before and am quite a novice so I've enlisted my Dad to come help.

We are both looking at all of the available manuals and they make it quite clear that the entire wheel hub needs to come off to change the shocks. Are we missing something? Is it possible to replace the shocks without removing the entire wheel hub? Can you pull them out the top without removing the entire deal?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Derek

[mriz]

I have a 77 280 but things should be pretty close as far as replacement of strut inserts. I did remove the entire assembly when replacing mine and it wasn't too bad being a novice.Hit all the bolts with a rust penatrant and let it soak in first. You may also see what else you may want to replace before you start and wait for those parts and do it all at once. You can do a search on thrush bearings and insulators on the 240 to give you an idea of what should need replacing. Fighting "while I'm at it " will be the toughest part.

[ktm]

First and most importantly, do you have a spring compressor? If not, then changing the shocks will be quite dangerous if you have never done this before. The springs will be underload and if you remove the nut holding it in place without comressing te springs, the spring/spring perch will launch.

Saying that, you can replace the shocks without removing the entire strut assembly. First, remove the two bolts connecting the t/c rod to the control arm. You will also need to disconnect the steering knuckle from the outter tie rods. You will need to do this so that the control arm has its full range of motion. At this point you are quite close to being able to completely remove the strut assembly altogether. Simply remove two more bolts in the ball joint and the strut assembly is free.

Then make sure that you have loosened the nut in the strut tower that locks the shock inplace. Do not take it off completely, just loosen it first. Once that is accomplished, you can start removing the three nuts in the strut tower. Make sure that the control arm is supported by something before you do this. Once removed, you can start to lower the control arm/strut assembly.

The rears are quite a bit easier. There is no way of just removing the strut asembly in the rear without removing the spindle pin. You will have to change the rears in place. To do this, you simply disconnect the half shaft from the rear hub (behind the drum). That's it really. You may or may not need to disconnect the emergency brake cable (very very easy) and the rear drum brake line in order to get the clearance you need.

[7T1240]

Here's a nice write-up with pictures from one of my favorite tech sections. They do remove the whole assembly. The second photo as you scroll down shows a picture of a spring compressed with a spring compressor.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/frontstruts/index.htm

Gary S.l

[ddezso]

Where would you get a spring compressor and how much do they cost? Since this is most likely a one time job for me can you rent them?

[7T1240]

The Atlantic Z article says they are not very expensive - you can probably get them from NAPA, Schucks, Autozone, maybe Sears? Usually you can check them out if you buy your struts from Schucks, Autozone, etc. Also, local rental places (Rent-X, etc.) typically rent them as well.

Gary S.

[Arne]

About $10 at Harbor Freight.

[ktm]

The reason why Blue (the author of the tech article) removed them was because he was replacing his bushing at the same time also. Please read the article. You can ask others here (i.e., Jon Mortensen) about having to remove the entire assembly.

See this link if you do not believe me (read jmortensen's post at the bottom of the first page): http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23673

I forgot about the front sway bar.

Secondly, you do not need to buy a spring compressor. Autozone has a tool loaner program. You simply put down a deposit, use the tool, return tool and get your deposit back. I have used their loaner program quite a few times.

[Arne]

I just changed the rear springs in my yellow 240Z yesterday. I did not remove the housings from the car. I have done the rears on Zs this way many times in my prior career.

• Loosen - but do not remove - the three nuts at the top of the strut tower, and also the center shaft nut.
• Jack up the car and support on jackstands. Remove wheel.
• Disconnect and plug the brake hose at the chassis end. Unbolt the halfshaft, disconnect the parking brake cable. If you have one, disconnect the rear sway bar.
• Now remove the three upper strut tower nuts. Pry the strut down and out of the strut tower, then down a bit farther and pivot it outside the wheel opening. Be careful not to scratch the fender lip when you bring it out.
• Now the strut is out in the open. Compress the spring, remove the center shaft nut, disassemble the spring and upper spring seat. You can now un-do the gland nut and replace the strut insert.
• Reassembly is the reverse. Be sure to orient the three upper studs correctly before getting the strut back into the tower, and again, be careful about the fender lip.

Fronts are easier, because removing the housing from the car is a simple bolt-in job.

• Loosen - but do not remove - the three nuts at the top of the strut tower, and also the center shaft nut.
• Jack up the car and support on jackstands. Remove wheel.
• Disconnect and plug the brake hose at the strut end.
• Unbolt and remove the brake caliper. (Not required, but makes the strut housing lighter and easier to handle.)
• Remove the two bolts going up from the bottom that attach the strut housing to the steering knuckle.
• Using a pry bar, dislodge the steering knuckle from the housing by prying the knuckle and control arm downwards. Once free, remove the three upper nuts and pull the housing from the car.
• As with the rear, reassembly is the reverse.

Granted, I have done this process more times than I can count. But doing it this way, with hand tools only (no air tools), I can do all four in a day, easily. I swapped the rear springs in the yellow car yesterday in 2 to 2 1/2 hours. The biggest part of that time in a spring swap is compressing, then un-compressing the old springs, and then compressing and uncompressing the replacement springs as well. Takes a while with hand tools, but otherwise no sweat.

[SteveInOakland]

Hey Arne --

So I think you're saying:

Rear, leave the assembly on the car, attached at bottom.

Front, remove the assembly altogether.

In the '70s I worked at a place that had a Bilstein franchise, and we used the "leave on car and pivot" method a lot -- the one you describe for the rear. In many cars this could be done with the front as well. Often leaving the brake line attached.

I have no memory of how I did the job with my old Z. But I currently have the front fenders off my '73, so the whole clearance picture changes in regard to potential use of the "leave on car and pivot" approach. What do you think, would it work at this point?

Thx,

Steve

[BRE-240Z]

So I think you're saying:

Rear, leave the assembly on the car, attached at bottom.

Front, remove the assembly altogether.

You'll have to disconnect the brake lines, but otherwise you are correct. I've done it this way on my car and it worked out just fine.

Compressing and decompressing the springs is the most time-consuming part of the process, particularly if you don't have access to air tools. I installed lowering springs on my car, and one nice thing about this is that you don't have to compress them in order to install or remove them.

[ddezso]

The car is 37 years old and presumably has the original springs. While this is all taken apart it probably makes sense to replace those too huh?

Any reason it wouldn't be useful and advised to replace springs when doing shocks? Also - what springs would you guys advise for someone who wants a stock look and ride without breaking the bank? I dont care about crazy high performance and dont want any lowering or raising of height.

Thanks