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Inner floor sound/rust proofing options


shamus11

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Hi, just wondering what various people have done in the way of sound proofing their inside floor pannels for those who have had to remove all of the tar matting during thier resto.

I like the idea of a single spray in product such as stone gaurd (over an etch primer of course) as it has the benefit of not allowing dirt and water to get underneath it like the tar matting can. And it's thicker coating provides good scratch protection.

I'm not sure if it would offer the same level of sound proofing though.

Has anyone done this and found it obtrusively loud?

Has anyone used some other product and had good results?

Thanks!

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When i had the interior out of my car.. I should have but didn't because I wasn't thinking :(

But if I were to do it over I would consider Dynamat insulation, it's kinda pricey, but since I don't plan on selling my Z, it would be worth the investment to me. Just my .02

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What are your goals with the sound-proofing? You probably want just to minimize most of the undesireable mechanical sounds the car makes, but still be able to hear traffic sounds. Being able to hear sounds that your car is making makes your car safer to drive for you, and being able to hear traffic (especially emergency vehicles) makes you a safer driver for yourself and others.

thx

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Shane,

After I removed the factory tar mats, I sandblasted the inner floors. After some weld repairs, I applied POR 15, covered that with Ti-Coat primer then painted with acrylic enamel. I then applied Evercoats' Q-Pads, and re-painted the floors with acrylic enamel. The Q-Pads come in 12 or 16 inch squares and resemble the factory look. Since I have a 240Z and the carpets can be lifted, I wanted the floor to look as correct as possible. Since I haven't driven the car yet, I can't comment on how well the Q-Pads insulate.

I couldn't tell which Z model you have but I used Quiet Car sound-proofing on a 280Z where the carpets were held down and you wouldn't ever see the floors. The QC is brushed on and dries to an uneven surface, it worked great and the cost was reasonable.

If you do a search, you'll find a number of posts dealing with this subject. Good luck with your efforts.

Bruce

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If you go with your approach and the car is still too loud, there are variety of fairly sophisticated sound-deadening products designed to go inside the car, which you can add. All thin enough to be unobtrusive. Good selection viewable at partsexpress.com -- search for "sound proofing," then select "Automotive Dampening Sheets."

Good luck.

Steve.

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Funny you bring this up, I'm working on exactly what you're talking about now. I have a leak that I need to repair, and there was water comming in on the passenger side under the dash and the carpet got completely soaked, so we took it all the carpet out on the passenger side. I took out all the sound detening material down the medal only on the floor board, and then we applied a silver rustolium to prevent further rust and to match the the same color as the original sound material. Were probably going to leave it at that and then of coarse put the carpet in after that and I'll see how it is, but driving it the way it is now, to be honest I really haven't notice that much of a difference at all. Or maybe it's because I have my radio up to loud, haha no.

EDIT: Also, you may want to consider using Dynamat. From what I've learned and heard, it's good way to go when restoring an old car as it really keeps the noise down inside the car. Good luck.

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I needed to replace the floor pan on the passenger side and only repair some small holes by cutting away the problem area and welding in some sheet metal. the passenger floor I installed one of Zedd Findings floor pans and too the car to a certified welder that did all the tig welding . I then prepped all the bear metal and used POR both inside and under the car . Over this I applied B-Quiet ultimate . I covered every square inch of the floors cowl tranny tunnel about 80% of the inside of the doors , inside the rear fenders as far as I could reach . I also applied it to the back side of the plastic trim panels in the hatch area. All in all I used right at 75 sq ft of material . It comes 12 '' by what ever length you order . If I remember right 12' lengths or a roll of 50' I went with two 50 footers . It is a peal and stick with a aluminum exposed face . You can cut it with heavy duty scissors or razor knife . I found it vary easy to work with and I am VARY happy with the resonance deadening quality . In the hatch area I used a product from JC Whitney . It is meant for use under the hood or for marine use for sound , It too is aluminum faced on one side and about 3/8'' thick and is comprised of a textile composite that is soft . It comes in a roll 48'' X 6' in length . This also can be cut with scissors . The end result is a quiet , for a 240 Z , that I can enjoy a conversation or listen to the radio . The ultimate is easily formed to the couture of the floors highs and lows and it bonds vary well to any surface. I didn't use it on the roof , I wasn't sure if the heat of the sun wouldn't loosen it in time. The new headliner is such that the foam back deadens the sound vary well there as well . Gary

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In the hatch area I used a product from JC Whitney . It is meant for use under the hood or for marine use for sound , It too is aluminum faced on one side and about 3/8'' thick and is comprised of a textile composite that is soft . It comes in a roll 48'' X 6' in length . This also can be cut with scissors .

Gary, you put this inside the hatch itself, or...?

Thx,

Steve

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I just replace my floor pans and was looking for options to do as a sound detener. What i used was a spray-on bedliner (raptorliner)it is tintable and sprays on really nice.I don't know if it will be as good as the sound sheets, but i was able to spray it about 4mm thick.

Sorry can't get the pics on.. will try later ..It looks pretty cool.

Dean

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Gary, you put this inside the hatch itself, or...?

Thx,

Steve

Actually I did put the B-Quiet inside he hatch it's self and that stopped all the drum effect . Now is sounds as solid as a freezer door. I used the B-Quiet on the floor of the hatch area , then the JC Whitney product over that as a pad for the carpet. I used the spray on contact cement #77 and stuck the stuff on the under side of the lid for the spare tire also. I covered about all the sheet metal I could reach even inside the tool boxes . The stuff helps to eliminate the drum effect of the sound coming from the outside. As to weight , I may have added about 35 lbs to the car with the 75 sq. ft. that I installed. If you tap your knuckle on my hatch or rear finder or either of the doors , there is no tinny sound . It is solid sounding. This is what I was after , making the car quiet . Gary

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