I read an extensive article on this and I will see if I can find it but the bottom line was that deadners made from Butyl were the best by far. Of course the best is usually the most expensive. I think the major difference was the butyl faired better as far as holding in place especially in extreme climates(heat).Just a thought when making your choices.

I've used Por-15 on the inside (www.por15.com) and B-Quiet soundproofing (www.b-quiet.com).

You can see some photos of what it looks like with each here: http://gregggermer.com/photos/280z/album/During/slides/during_repairs_12%20025.html

Thanks for the input guys. I've been looking into the stick down matting and at this stage have decided to use it sparingly on flat panels such as footwells, trans tunel and firewall (where it will stick down nice and flat), and then use a spray in product for the places when the panels have uneven surfaces where the matting might create cavities where moisture and dirt might collect underneath the mat.

I was surprised how much weight some of the people added to their car using the stick down matting. My main aim is to reduce drumminess and exhaust drone in the cabin for the least amount of weight gain.

I've had an idea of laying the matting before I spray in the stone-gaurd which might help seal around the edges of the matting and produce a good sealed protective finnish.

Here's another option for a spray on sound deadener - 3M Body Schutz:

http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/auto_marine_aero/automotive_aftermarket/node_GSYQLRLTGTgs/root_GST1T4S9TCgv/vroot_GSLPLPKL4Xge/bgel_PSM6K102PFbl/gvel_6DTWTJQPBBgl/theme_us_aad_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html

I'm not sure how it compares to the stick on products as far as sound dampening, sensitivity to temperature or smell, etc... It is similar to the stuff that was sprayed into the doors and trunks of US cars made in the 60's and 70's. Might be worth a look.

I've used Por-15 on the inside (www.por15.com) and B-Quiet soundproofing (www.b-quiet.com).

You can see some photos of what it looks like with each here: http://gregggermer.com/photos/280z/album/During/slides/during_repairs_12%20025.html

Gregg, your site was fun to look at. I like your idea of a hidden antenna -- which one did you use, where'd you find?

Anybody else doing this?

Thx,

Steve

I welded 16 gauge steel into my floors, covered them in fiberglass, applied asphalt undercoating. I then laid down the material from motorsport (sound & Heat protection) and used an adhesive to stick it to the floor. Used with the foil side down, it will eliminate much of the heat from the exhaust/engine, and also reduce most noises you dont want to hear. As my other post about my fresh engine says, I have driven the car only once and the roads were wet. I couldnt even hear the rain water splash the wheel houses on all four corners. All I heard was the faint sound of the DTM Muffler. I couldnt believe the results of the floors. It makes the car seem more tight, well built and coming from someone who hates rattles, I must say that this combonation solved a lot of issues that I am picky about.

I also have a 2002 BMW 330 coupe with 30k miles and believe it or not, the Z is quieter inside than the BMW. I think that between the fiberglass and the product from Motorsport, you should have one quiet ride.

Gregg, your site was fun to look at. I like your idea of a hidden antenna -- which one did you use, where'd you find?

Anybody else doing this?

Thx,

Steve

I used this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TT1E-TUNE-TRAPPER-HIDDEN-AM-FM-ANTENNA_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ38655QQihZ019QQitemZ7996685762

It's a generic one I bought off of eBay. There are other options such as ones which attach to your glass behind the rear view mirror. I hid mine under the dash and it works "well enough". In other words, I don't get a great signal in certain terrain or far from the city, but I use my CD players MP3 feature most of the time anyways. There are other places to hide it, the dash ended up being the most convenient and easiest.