I'm welding all day long on a metal window factory now... And that are metal thicknesses of 1, 1,5 and 2 mm.

MIG welding is the best suited for it, because you don't bring much heat in the metal, TIG puts to much heat in it, so it will bend.

You need to adjust the machine on the right level of amperage and settings..

Praticing on some test pieces would be recommended.

Thin metal like 1 of 1,5mm.. a bit to long on one spot and your true.. If your welding a sheet metal to somehting like a pipe or somehting else.. always weld on the edge of the thickest metal and let your weld flow... on the the thin plate, this way you won't go trough the metal and can even weld continuesly without spotwelding al the time.

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And weld in the right direction, pushing is the way, not pulling.

Also make your weld "burn in" to long causes a hole, to short is a fake weld.. you think it will be okay.. but it hasn't any strength.

Original car metal is point welded.

You may consider getting a small oxy/acetylene rig and try brazing scrap pieces of sheet metal together. Brazing uses a lot less heat than welding and is well suited to auto body repair work. Also, practicing with an oxy/acetylene rig will help you develop a feel for controlling the heat, which is what welding/brazing/soldering is all about.

I know what you mean, but i don't want to see old metal back again hehe. It all has to go out. But it's a good way to do it.. remember the a-team ?