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hey i just got a 73 240z for free. no title no keys no door handles LOL. tad bit of rust interior is in decent shape needs a new door and possibly new a quarter panel. axle is pretty stiff and looks like it might be done for good. apparently car has just been sittin in the back of this rental place for 20 years. so i took it seeing as i needed a project for my advanced auto tech class. its my senior year in high school and want to have a fun cruiser this summer. engine actually looks to be in damn good shape but we'll see once i pull it and tear it apart. also appears to have had a 5speed swap already done to it but had the 4 speed knob on it. i wanna make some decent power out of it. and just wanna know what route i should take as far as modding it. pretty sure it has just the stock L24 in it which is what they come with correct?

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Sounds like you've got a long road ahead of you. The L24 is stock, most people opt for the L28 (280Z motor) or something even more extreme such as a V8 or SR20DET. The route you take is up to you. The are many many many different routes.


I recommend that the secound thing you do is to check with DMV and do a surch and find out if it is a stolen car . It would be the pits to resurect the car and then find out someone else will be driving it . I would also see what the penitlitys might be for lack of licensing . Some states like Calif will have severe charges . As to the engine . Personally I would rebuild a later 280 engine rather than the L-24 since it is already stroked . In comparrison to the 240 . If what you say about the trans being a 5 speed it may already have a L-28 engine in it. If what you said about it setting for 20 years is right. You are looking at a staggering amount of work and expense ahead of you. Good luck with your project though . This is the right place to come if you need any information or help finding parts . Gary

If you are wanting power on the cheaper side, most people go for the L28, V8, or an sr/rb motor as modifying the L24 to push sum numbers is on the expensive side.

I myself was thinking of a V8, rb, or an L28, but I think that I am just going to stick with my L24. I am going to one day diesel crank it, and get a triple carb setup thrown on there. Its an expensive and harder way to go compared to other options with still even smaller power numbers, but for some reason this is the route that I am going to go. Maybe because it is one of the least popular mods and I don't want any normal modified Z car putting around on the streets.

Unless you got some serious cash on you, I don't think that your car will be near done by summer. Though what it will be is drivable! I recently got my Z running. Already had a rebuild so I didn't have to bother with that. The interior is completely gutted and is going to stay that way for awhile because the price just to get the interior all together is way up there, a number that I don't like looking at. Though all I need are brakes, tires, and a new suspension and that car will be a safe and comfortable ride on the road. :-)

yeah i just want it drivable before summer time it defiantely won't look pretty at all. is there a quick way to tell if theres an L28 or L24 in there? is it labeled anywhere?
Yeah, the block engine serial number. Right side of the engine, on a flat boss at the top of the block, below number 5 spark plug. The first part will tell what type engine is there (L24, L26 or L28e) and the second is a serial number.

I second the recommendation from beandip above to verify that you can legally take possession of this car, since it has no title. I know that not all states require titles for cars once they are past a certain age, but again as noted above, since we don't have a clue where you are located, we can't advise on that either.

:nervous: This can be very good news. DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE OVER WITH THE STARTER. remember , when the engine was shut down all these years. There were two cylinders open to the out side atmosphere. It can easily cause the rings to be rusted to the bore for one and or the valve stems could have also have rusted some . If you spin the engine with the starter , provided you could . You easily can have a valve stick in the open position and a piston will strike it . Most likely bending the valve stem and it could damage the piston. Drain all the fluids , and change the oil filter. Pull the spark plugs and squirt in some ATF , about a half ounce in each cylinder and let the engine sit and the oil soak . Pull the valve cover and have a look for rust on the cam . If all is looking OK , pour some oil over the valve train to coat everything . Use a socket on the crank pulley nut and with a break-over bar turn the engine over if you can . If it is a no go , then let it set while the ATF penetrates for 24 hrs , try again . If still a no go , try putting it in gear and rocking the car back and forth and see if you can cause the engine to turn over . If this works then use the wrench on the crank to turn it over and watch the valves to see if you see any stick . If all looks good and you have rotated the engine some by hand , then use the starter to spin the engine . I pour oil into the new filter before I install it to speed up the lubrication process since the engine will be dry of oil after setting for so long . When you are satisfied that you are getting lubrication to the cam and the valves seem to be OK , install the spark plugs and start her up . I know this is all basic stuff , but I have seem many guys , over the years , that find a car like this one you have . They get in a hurry to start the engine and because they don't take the time to make sure all is good , they screw up the engine big time . Hopefully you don't brake a ring ,or find rust in the cylinders .:nervous: Gary

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