Sanding ?

[TBK1]

Hey guys, there is a material used at a seam I need to know what to use it is where the roof line meets the rain gutter, appears to be some kind of caulk that got hard semi hard and cracked up!

[280 zzzap z]

It may be what is called seam sealer. You should be able to get it at any auto body supplier. I use Evercoat brushable seam sealer,1qt. is $14.37 from Eastwood.

[280 zzzap z]

It may be what is called seam sealer. You should be able to get it at any auto body supplier. I use Evercoat brushable seam sealer,1qt. is $14.37 from Eastwood;www.eastwoodco.com

[CANDYBLUE2+2]

Also note the thickness of your application of seam sealer in this area. Too heavy and you may have a time getting the drip rail back on. Keep it thin and even and all should go well. And let it dry as long as possible before applying primers or paint.

[TBK1]

Pretty close to painting, 2 questions! not sure if I will have the fenders soon enough so thought Id paint everything else now, Q #1 how much base color should I buy and will the colors match (fenders) if the base is out od the same batch or does the reducer effect the color?

Q#2 is it ok to wash the car prior to painting to remove all the fine dust and crap?

[EScanlon]

My 2¢

I would definitely wait until you have all the body parts to be painted to paint ALL of the exterior in one shoot. You can get away with shooting door jambs, hatch and engine bays, but once you start "patching" fenders, doors, etc. you are asking for ever so subtle differences in the finish.

While the reducer itself is not necessarily the main reason for paint variation, it CAN be. The humidity, temperature, even the barometric pressure can affect how the paint flows from one day to another.

Toss in that you would more than likely be painting the fenders on sawhorses and now you have position that can affect the look of the finish. While this is minimized with basic color paints (i.e no Pearl, Metallic, or other appearance modifiers) it is nonetheless something that should definitely be considered.

Metallics and Pearls are the most sensitive to this phenomenon.

As far as how much paint, that depends on your skill in painting and how many "coats" you'll be painting. Typically, you're talking a "mist" coat, followed by two or more "double-wet" coats for your basic color. Some people will add a last one with extra reducer to reduce the amount of "orange peel" effect. Again, it depends on your skill.

Clear, if painted on the same day may in fact reduce the amount of color you can or should paint. Clear is even MORE sensitive to excessive paint and it is extremely easy to RUN/SAG it. This is even more exacerbated by the fact that you cannot readily "see" it.

If you are talking a COMPLETE color change (i.e. door jambs, hatch, engine, interior) then at LEAST a gallon. It might also behoove you to buy the gallon as it might be cheaper than buying 3 quarts and then you don't have to batch mix all three quarts together to ensure color consistency.

Washing the car is ok....as long as you thoroughly and completely dry it. Use copious amounts of water as opposed to soap.

Use a wet cotton rag to wipe down all surfaces to remove any powder or dust that may still cling. Once you're finished washing, use the wet rag to wipe off any water, squeeze it dry whenever it gets wet and do it again. Use it just like if it were a chamois. Then go back over the whole car with an air blower and blow into all those little nooks and crannies that can trap water. If you find trapped water, use the blower and blow it out onto your rag. Use the rag to trap those runaway drops, don't let them evaporate on the car via the air stream.

Your last step before beginning to paint, is a final application and removal of Wax and Grease Remover. This will ensure that there are no human or other oils on the surface of the car. This is wiped on, and wiped off dry...again, don't let it evaporate.

A tack rag shouldn't be needed, as you will have cleaned the dust off the car, but you will definitely want to squeegee the floor of the booth, or at least wet it down (not puddles) to keep any dust and dirt off.

HTH

E

[TBK1]

Thanks E ! Will laquer thinner work for the wax/grease remover

?

[EScanlon]

NO!!!

Lacquer thinner will CUT and LIFT your primer, sealer, and red cap if you used it.

Check at the store where you will be buying (or did buy) your paint. Ask for it by name, and all you need is the small quart can. Some people have used Mineral Spirits and while some have said no problem, others have reported crazing and fish-eye. For the few bucks, it's cheap insurance.

Remember, you've done too much GOOD work for you to risk it over a few dollars. Remember, 80% of body-work (if not more) is intended to be INVISIBLE after the paint is applied.

One thing about a tack rag I didn't mention earlier, it is usually a resin impregnated cheesecloth. This resin is used to both capture and remove any dust / dirt / lint bits that may creep onto the car, and also to neutralize static charges you may have imparted in wiping down with W&G, and other actions. (Some people recommend using a ground strap attached to the car and to earth ground to eliminate static charges.) All of these are items you need to evaluate for yourself, but do be careful not to smear the resin onto the car's surface. A LIGHT touch is all that's needed with a tack rag.

E

[TBK1]

Thanks E, do you see a prob with putting down a sheet of plastic under the car to protect the floor during painting?

[EScanlon]

While I think that if you wash the floor and it's still damp (not wet and puddly) you won't have paint mist to worry about unless you actually spill some paint.

Just make sure the plastic sheeting is held down well and can't be fluttered onto your paint via your paint gun air stream or even casual kicking of it. If you do use the plastic, be very careful about any water that may drip onto it...it can be kicked up and onto the car very easily.

I think Mat M, or the IanMonster had a problem with plastic sheeting blowing onto fresh paint.

E

[TBK1]

Thanks E, went ahead today and tried my first paint, had a pint of single stage and painted the underside of the hood and the underside of the hatch, not to bad for a ROOKIE!!!!!

[CANDYBLUE2+2]

If this is your first attempt, and it's Single Stage at that...Youv'e done very well young Jedi. When you step up to BC/CC you should get even better results, as in my opinion, single stage paint may be easy enough to do, but a good BC paint is heaven. Keep it up and post those pics as you progress, and as E said earlier, paint only when you have everything you need and can do the complete job at one time. Trying to colormatch anything with so little experience would not be adviseable. I paint everyday and can say that it's the least favorite part of the job.