Windshield without sealer?

[Kerrigan]

The body shop is now insisting on putting the new windshield in the 1971 240Z (FairladyZ actually,) without using any silicone or other sealer. He says they use a linseed based oil that accomplishes the same thing.

Is this correct and that it won't leak with the stuff he want's to use?

Thanks!

[EScanlon]

A properly installed windshield with OEM weatherstripping on a blemish and repair free windshield frame should have no problems with it being installed without silicone or other sealant below the rubber or in the glass channel in the rubber.

The application of silicone or other caulking can actually be quite messy and result in LOTS of complications, compared to the relatively unknown quantity of protection you might receive from it.

Think of the streamers of silicone going every which way, on the glass, the FRESH paint, the interior vinyl, and then imagine trying to clean them off, either before or after they harden....then add up the HOURS it would take.

Don't worry about leaks, they'll no doubt guarantee their installation. Let them do it the way they know how.

2¢

E

[CoastGuardZ]

Don't worry about leaks, they'll no doubt guarantee their installation. Let them do it the way they know how.

Sounds like good advice to me.

[Kerrigan]

After visiting safewindshields.com I've decided to have the installer do it instead of the bodyshop.

It turns out to be a crash-worthiness issue. Without the urathane, the windshield pops out and if you roll, the windshield pillars collapse, the top crushes, and you are toast. The claim is the windshield itself, when fastened in, is part of the crash-structure of the car.

The company, NW Windshields, warranties it against leaking, etc., for as long as you own the car. If they break it on installation, they do another. They use the Precision gasket, windshield urathane, and seem to know what they are doing.

The body shop won't warranty against leaking and if it breaks when they do it, I buy another one.

This turned out to be a no-brainer, with enough research.

Sound like a lot of hooie? I thought so until I read the stuff at safewindshields.com ...

[280z1975]

snip... The body shop won't warranty against leaking and if it breaks when they do it, I buy another one.

... snip

Sounds like your body shop isn't up to par. Most body shops I know warranty these sort of things and usually contract out the work so it's done by a person who is more skilled in this area than your standard body repair worker.

Glad you figured it all out ... my windshield leaked after it's install, but unfortunately for me I moved away shortly after my install and the company said "to bad" to me. I fixed the problem with a little clear silicone in the corners and the base of the car, not the best fix in the world, but the cheapest and it's not that noticeable unless you point it out.

[Carl Beck]

Hi Kerrigan:

Personally, I believe that one should, in most cased, do what the Engineers that designed and built the car - tell you to do.

According to them, the outer lip of the windshield gasket is to be glued to the car body with an adhesive.

If I had to guess, I'd say that because the air pressure inside the car changes from negative (sucking exhaust gasses in through a loose deck lid seal) to positive (relative pressures) when you roll the windows up, with the fresh air vents open - that seal along with the glass is designed to flex a bit. Also because our unibodies are not actually the most rigid of structures.. they do actually flex quite a bit themselves, so that rubber gasket is not only a seal it's a shock absorber of sorts.. Gluing the outside lip of that gasket to the car body simply assures that area isn't the one doing the moving and absorbing the shock - when the main body of the gasket is supposed to be.

Nissan doesn't specify exactly what "adhesive" to use - but I would guess that close to 40 years after it was originally designed - you'd be pretty safe using a modern silicone sealer/adhesive. Looking at a few old cars I've taken apart - it looks like they used the same weather stripping adhesive they used on all the other weather strips/seals - the yellow 3M stuff..

I think you made the right decision - to take it to an experienced automotive glass installer...

Watch them anyway - if the installer lays out the windshield on a support surface - applies a very small amount of sealer around the edge of the glass,

Then puts the gasket on the glass.

Then applies a very thin coat to the surface of the gasket, where the gasket would meet the outside of the windshield frame (where it contacts the outside of the body).

Then installs the stainless steel trim.....

Then puts a cord around the inside channel of the gasket to get ready to install it

Then sprays a little soapy water to windshield frame

It is most likely he's done a few before.

If on the other hand he intends to put the stainless trim in - after putting the windshield on the car - stop him!! Once the gasket is in place in the windshield frame - it is NEXT to Impossible to install the stainless steel trim with out damaging the the rubber on the gasket that is supposed to cover it.

Actually that "trim" is not there for looks.... it's there to keep the gasket from deforming in the wrong direction.

Just my opinion...FWIW,

Carl B.

[CoastGuardZ]

If on the other hand he intends to put the stainless trim in - after putting the windshield on the car - stop him!! Once the gasket is in place in the windshield frame - it is NEXT to Impossible to install the stainless steel trim with out damaging the the rubber on the gasket that is supposed to cover it.

Carls got a point. My buddy's restored '65 Beetle is running around with no trim on the window for this exact reason.

Thanks for posting the info you found out and thanks Carl for your narrative... now we can all insure that our glass is installed properly.

Nate

[geezer]

You can't go wrong following Carl's advise here. I have installed a lot of glass/gasket assemblies of this type. At the factory a thin skim layer of adhesive was run around the perimeter of the glass. It has the consistancy of contact cement and it is allowed to dry. The gasket which was preheated in a hot box is then given the same treatment in the appropriate places. The gasket is then put in place on the glass. Here is where my method parts way. Route the cotton 1/4" cord around the gasket and leave enough rope at the top after the overlap to get a grip on. Without the moulding in place the rubber has a greater amount of flexability, making the assembly fall into place much easier without putting any undue stress on the glass when the cord is pulled out. (when the cord is slowly pulled out make sure you have someone applying pressure on the outside about a foot behind the cord being removed) This is the time to put a sealer between the glass and gasket (outside only). This does make it harder now to install the mouldings. That is why specialty tools are made. If you do not have the proper tools or confidence to do this yourself, you should let a pro do it. I use a product called IsoPar from the Dodge dealership. It is liberaly brushed on the rubber before installing the mouldings. It lubricates and cleans off easily and will not affect your paint or trim. The moulding tool is then placed over the moulding and pulled ahead. The moulding falls right into place spreading the rubber and tightening the rubber to the glass. Heres a pic of the only gasket type tools I use. The moulding tool is the one of particular interest.

[Ramses]

The Red tool is the exact tool that the windshield repair man used to install my metal trim around the windshield and the rear hatch gasket. He used windshield cleaner to lubricate the gasket. It turned out almost perfect...there is a small gap in the top corner, passenger side. I am not sure why, but itt does not leak.

[geezer]

The red handled one is a Miller specialty tool designed for working the glass into the channel of a gasket that is already in place on the flange, but is also very useful for other applications. Because I primarily work on early A-Body Mopars it gets used a lot. The tool on the far left is used for moulding installation. This one is actually one I fabricated, because my Miller was never returned after loaning it out. It works just as well. It is made from a paint can opener that you can get from many paint outlets. After a 5 minute rework, your ready to go. It might not be obvious to some how it works, so I'll try to explain. In the picture it is upside down. The small flat surface is positioned in the groove of the gasket and the moulding is fed into the opening coming lengthwise from under the handle. Now, as the tool is drawn towards you along the length of the moulding, it goes into place without damaging the rubber. No part of the tool touches the bright surface. It goes around corners easily. You assemble the moulding pieces as you go. The red handled Miller is great for finishing up where you end. Hope this helps.