Wiring Harness Preventive maintenance

[xray]

So I've been doing a lot of searching and reading about what folks have been doing in regards to their wiring harnesses, and the answers are pretty varied. There have been some nice threads 3-4 years ago about remanufacturing harnesses, (link) but it appears they all really went nowhere...

...Now I'm in the position to deal with my harness and I'm looking for some advice/input on how to proceed.

Basically everything works on my wiring harness. The courtesy light switches in the A-pillar were corroded and intermittently functining, so replacements have been bought. The defroster is non-functional, but I also think it's basic corrosion at it's attachment to the hatch. The loom tape is old and grungy, so I bought the replacement listed on Eastwood's website http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1368&itemType=PRODUCT

I figured since I had the harness unwrapped I would tend to whatever problems lurk beneath...but what do those problems look like? I know from some cheap, cut-up harnesses I bought earlier that the splicing of circuits is sub-par, many with exposed copper wire. I think I probably should solder those connections then insulate them with heat shrink tubing or use "liquid electrical tape" type insulation. Would that be OK to protect those splices from corrosion/shorting out?

While I was at it, I'd run the wires looking for burned spots that might signal high resistance or shorts, and repair them as needed by splicing in new wire, soldering and insulating...

Then come the connectors themselves. I have visited EagleDay and looked over their terminal connectors, but I'm resistant to snipping off the originals if the terminals themselves can be cleaned...Is there a method for cleaning these? Has anyone used Eastwood's Deox-It product with success? Can the individual spade terminals be removed from the terminal blocks and replaced? Would the use of Kopr-Shield (or something similar) on these connections be of any gain?

I figured since my car is totally apart I would do what I could in regards to maintenance on the wiring because I sure don't want to have to pull these harnesses out after the car is reassembled! If I can prevent an imminent electrical meltdown, then I want to do what I can.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve

[george71z]

If you have a friend in the military, defense industry, or check the Tyco Corp. website; there is a product known as an environmental splice that is excellent . It is basically a metal sleeve that gets crimped onto each end of the wire, and covered with a plastic sleeve that is then heat-shrunk and provides an indestructible connection that will not corrode as long as you own your car. Also, the metal pins in the connectors can be removed for cleaning, if you have the time and patience. A straight dental pick can be pushed down into the connector to release the lock tab on the metal pin. Just diagram the wire colors before you dismantle, so it goes back together the right way.

[JimmyZ]

The following post is a copy from another but seems valid for the topic...

I had a great realization/lesson about my White wire with red stripe. Driving down the road I noticed the smell of burning wire so I shut down the car immediately. Turned out it was the WR wire to the fuse box. I had no lights or accesories on and the AMP guge read full charge. hmmmm..

After some consultation of the wiring diagram I decided to unplug the field wire from the alternator. The wire now stayed cool even with the lights, etc, on.

Hooked up the alternator and a voltmeter and found that I had a bad regulator (16+ volts) Replaced the regulator and no probs. Just need to fix the melted plastic connector now.

A fusible link would be nice to have on the WR wire where it comes of the alternator. This might save the day in the event of something like this happening. Hard to say what rating though... 30-50 AMP might do OK. I'm leaning toward the 50 though.

2c

I would very much like to buy a brand new harness. Considering making my own as the hot wire problem above really put me in a panic.

Jim

Jim

[xray]

If you have a friend in the military, defense industry, or check the Tyco Corp. website; there is a product known as an environmental splice that is excellent . It is basically a metal sleeve that gets crimped onto each end of the wire, and covered with a plastic sleeve that is then heat-shrunk and provides an indestructible connection that will not corrode as long as you own your car. Also, the metal pins in the connectors can be removed for cleaning, if you have the time and patience. A straight dental pick can be pushed down into the connector to release the lock tab on the metal pin. Just diagram the wire colors before you dismantle, so it goes back together the right way.

Thanks for the tips. I've seen the environmental splice, and think it may be a bit overkill as this is for a non-daily driver garage-kept restoration. Not a lot of salt and water in my garage, you know... The thought of bare copper connections underneath some wiring tape has me nervous, so I'll definitely put something to insulate it from the outside, though....

I'll look into the dental pick idea for sure.

Steve

[DRBall]

Just lightly sand some of the conectors with emery cloth and wipe off. Or use a metal brush...Just remember to disconnect the battery....And find the wire wrap that Eastwood sales not the tape the wire wrap it's a bit pricey but much better that the 30 yr old stuff on it....

[hls30.com]

Don't sand anythign but points! Sanding grinds corosion off a contact point and into the groves the sanding makes-meaning the corrosion will be back even worse!

Get some Deoxit-you can buy it direct-and use it, I wrote a thread about using it, and it is the stuf!

Will

[geezer]

Will - Can you help me out here? I searched with what I thought would be the key words and still can't find the thread. Sounds like your sold, so I want to learn more.

Sorry, found it. Cheaper alternative than Eastwood's

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=341-200&DID=7

[=Enigma=]

What about just using vinegar to clean/remove the corrosion from the connectors? Does this work?

I thought of doing the above and then rinsing them thoroughly with distilled water, and finally dispersing the water with a spray based electrical cleaner? Anyone tried this? Comments, suggestions, warnings?

[hls30.com]

Get the Deoxit, follow the instructions, know what you did is the right thing and move on to the next thing that you want to do once and be done with!

Will

PS this is sort of like using metal hole covers instead of the rubber floor plugs, spend a few(and I mean less than $15) dollars and get the right tool for the job, do it once and be done!

[xray]

Thanks, guys. The DeoxIt question was tossed in at the last minute, as I was perusing the Eastwood catalog while submitting the thread. Clearly, after a search it's obvious it has met with such good success--I'll order myself some tomorrow!

Now, for some fun with soldering.....

Steve

[DRBall]

I said use emery cloth not sand paper or you can use an abrasive mat(3M makes them).Then blow the part off . And after you clean the wire connectors protect them with a water displacing corrosion preventive compound or a clear lacquer..BTW this is out a corrosion control manual....As for the deoxit, stuff I have not tried it....

[TomoHawk]

I always use DeOxit (first100% and then5% before replugging), and just a little schmear of dielectric grease on the tighter connectors.