Nice that White Post is doing rebuilds now! When I used them I don't think they were. (15 years ago) I'm still perplexed at how they would get the right rubbers. Nobody supplies them anymore. Matching OD is easy but getting the ID and thickness/profile which matches the shoulders of the pistons would prove interesting. (Unless they make the pistons to suit)

I spent about a week searching online and calling parts stores but had no luck locating rubbers. Many of the sources said "I can order that.. No prob". When time came to order it I got the usual "It's in the system but has been discontinued". I was able to buy the last rebuild kit from Nissan though. Before sending off to White Post (If you choose that route) I'd make sure they can get rubbers.

Are you sure that Nissan is not trying to give you a later series MC? Reed Nissan was all ready to take my money and order one but I had them look into what they were actually going to get me... This would have been the 8/71-> MC. The dealer was more eager to sell a part that worked but not the "right" part. I had to insist on seeing the paper parts manual and then note that the MC# was different than what they were going to get me. Someday I'll get the parts CD offered by this site.

Here's a pic for comparison. The bottom is the pre-8/71 MC internals. On top is a Maxima MC internals. Both have the same bore but the thickness of the rubbers is different. It's funny that the thinner/lighter rubbers are for a Maxima station wagon.

Are you sure that Nissan is not trying to give you a later series MC?

Absolutely. When I bought my red car it already had the later style on it. I bought the early one from my local Nissan dealer. Gave them the part number myself, 46010-E4602. This was in November or December of 2006. Cost me $185 for the real thing, brand new.

Same experience here got the early one from Nissan.

It should be noted that www.blackdragonauto.com sells early MCs, but also carries both MCs and a rebuild kits for 72' and on for those who have clean bores. The kit is cheap ($9.95) and comes with new primary and secondary pistons, springs and cups. I just rebuilt mine but have yet to test it and won't be able to do so until I get the beast back on the road.

Here:

http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/0103.asp

Absolutely. When I bought my red car it already had the later style on it. I bought the early one from my local Nissan dealer. Gave them the part number myself, 46010-E4602. This was in November or December of 2006. Cost me $185 for the real thing, brand new.

Very cool! I'm glad to hear that your dealer wasn't trying to do what mine was. If I had ben armed with the right part# perhaps things would have been different.

Jim

I might suggest that the life of the "rebuilts" could be greatly enhanced if they taken apart and washed out first before being pressed into service. I have opened several over the years only to find grit and shavings in the bore either of which wont mix with rubber seals for long....

Certainly not right that one should have to do this before using, just saying.......

I might suggest that the life of the "rebuilts" could be greatly enhanced if they taken apart and washed out first before being pressed into service. I have opened several over the years only to find grit and shavings in the bore either of which wont mix with rubber seals for long....

Certainly not right that one should have to do this before using, just saying.......

Ahhh! I'd never thought of that, Bruce. But it sure makes a whole lot of sense! Otherwise why would new ones off the shelf be bad. Good idea!

sorry to bring it back from the dead, but it looks like I need a new one for mine, and when looking at it the one there is of the later configuration with the larger or front reservoir at the back of the MC, the lines seems to be routed correctly so I am wandering what the cutoff is for the change over.

Mine is a 1971 build date 02/71 so I would have thought it would have the earlier configuration and with only 32k miles on it plus the fact that the lines are routed correctly I am assuming it is the way the car came, but again that is an assumption.

SO I am wandering that since I need a new one should I go back with what is there or the earlier configuration?

I'm a fan of White Post.

After less than steller results with rebuilt brake parts on my MGA, I finally just sent the master and front calipers to White Post.

The difference was amazing... the brakes felt and performed like new!

sorry to bring it back from the dead, but it looks like I need a new one for mine, and when looking at it the one there is of the later configuration with the larger or front reservoir at the back of the MC, the lines seems to be routed correctly so I am wandering what the cutoff is for the change over.

Mine is a 1971 build date 02/71 so I would have thought it would have the earlier configuration and with only 32k miles on it plus the fact that the lines are routed correctly I am assuming it is the way the car came, but again that is an assumption.

SO I am wandering that since I need a new one should I go back with what is there or the earlier configuration?

Gus, don't pay attention to the reservoirs alone, as those can be changed. Look on the side of the cylinder near where the lines connect and look for a cast marking of 'F' and 'R' to correctly identify which port does what on the cylinder that you have. Your replacement needs to have the same port config as the lines on the car.

Your car certainly should have come with the early style, as mine (7/71) did. I believe that the style changed in 8/71 or 9/71 production.

Gus, don't pay attention to the reservoirs alone, as those can be changed. Look on the side of the cylinder near where the lines connect and look for a cast marking of 'F' and 'R' to correctly identify which port does what on the cylinder that you have. Your replacement needs to have the same port config as the lines on the car.

Your car certainly should have come with the early style, as mine (7/71) did. I believe that the style changed in 8/71 or 9/71 production.

Thanks I did check that and there is an F on the rear section under the large reservoir, and an R on the front, and the rear line goes to the front of the other cylinder where it seems a line goes out the front to the driver's side wheel and another goes out the top to go around to the passenger side, which why it seems the lines are properly routed

Thanks I did check that and there is an F on the rear section under the large reservoir, and an R on the front, and the rear line goes to the front of the other cylinder where it seems a line goes out the front to the driver's side wheel and another goes out the top to go around to the passenger side, which why it seems the lines are properly routed

Then I'd use the same type you have now. I still think that yours has been replaced at some time in the past, and the lines re-routed or replaced, but no matter now.