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Adhering VIN plate and Engine ID plate


ddezso

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I bought my car sight unseen and it turned out somewhere along the lines prior owners had removed the door jamb VIN plate as well as the engine compartment ID plate.

You can read all about it here if you are really bored....

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19336

I have purchased replacements from Banzai Motorworks and need some advice on how to attach them to the car. I think it is done with smal metal rivets. Where would you get these rivets and how do you attach them?

Don't worry - I am not trying to pull a fast one and modify VIN numbers. The firewall VIN is clearly stamped and since that was the only VIN I have a state issued VIN on the title and in the door jamb. I just want to replace the plates so it looks better.

Thanks!

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Yes, they are available at just about any hardware store that carries rivets. And as you can see from "BRE-240Z"s picture, Aluminum rivets are the better way to go. The original screws rust and the rivets are flatter and look alot cleaner.

I don't know of any one who'll redicule or judge you for using rivets rather than the original rust ready screws.

Good luck with the Z,

Dave.

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Yes, they are available at just about any hardware store that carries rivets. And as you can see from "BRE-240Z"s picture, Aluminum rivets are the better way to go. The original screws rust and the rivets are flatter and look alot cleaner.

I don't know of any one who'll redicule or judge you for using rivets rather than the original rust ready screws.

Good luck with the Z,

Dave.

Both my cars have rivets in the door jamb plates, don't think either have ever been removed before. Don't know about the engine compartment plate off hand. I'll check it later.
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My '71 also has 3/32" aluminum rivots on the door. I removed them during the painting and replaced them after the work was done. I have screws in the engine compartment. I replaced them with S/S screws. No more rusting!

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I made a new door plate using thin gauge aluminum cut to size and rub-on lettering. Went to a local artist/office supply place and had to special order some of the fonts; but it's hard to tell from the original. Metal-stamped the date code in, and hit it with a bunch of coats of clear Krylon. If you can get a good photo of the engine plate, and know your original #'s, it shouldn't be too hard to make a duplicate. By the way, I used rivets to attach it to the doorframe.

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Now all I need is a pic of the engine compartment plate so I can make sure my stamping/engraving looks accurate.....

anyone.....?

I just took these pics in my basement so the lighting isn't the best. Its kinda rough too, but maybe you can use it. Let me know how you stamp or engrave it because I need to make my new plates also.

Zak

post-7211-14150799603455_thumb.jpg

post-7211-14150799603917_thumb.jpg

post-7211-14150799604315_thumb.jpg

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I made a new door plate using thin gauge aluminum cut to size and rub-on lettering. Went to a local artist/office supply place and had to special order some of the fonts; but it's hard to tell from the original. Metal-stamped the date code in, and hit it with a bunch of coats of clear Krylon. If you can get a good photo of the engine plate, and know your original #'s, it shouldn't be too hard to make a duplicate. By the way, I used rivets to attach it to the doorframe.

George - I have the replacement plates from Banzai but admire your creative abilities to roll your own.

Can you help me understand how you metal stamped them? Where did you take them or did you have the stamp gear yourself?

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