I just got my 73' z back today after spending 3 1/2 months in the shop. It had an automatic transmission that gave out and a motor with flat tops on it so I had them put a motor from a 71' parts car into it and a 4 speed and clutch from a 72' into it . I guess they did the heavy work (installing the motor, tranny, etc.) and gave up on getting it running. I can get they motor to turn using a remote switch the let me borrow. I get power to the yellow wire going to the coill, but no spark at the plugs. The motor won't turn using the key (it used to). I saw in Haynes manual that the wiring for a auto has a thermo switch, thermo relay, and inhibitor switch. Do I have to eliminate any of these when converting to manual? If so where are they? When I turn the key inside to start it I hear a relay under the dash (not the starter soleniod) am I Supposed to? The last thing they worked on was the wiring for the nuetral safety switch. Could they have messed this up and this is why the key won't turn the motor? Sorry so long winded, any help is deeply appreciated, I just want to drive my Z.

Mark

I would suspect the neutral safety switch first. The inhibitor, thermo and thermo relay probably can be gotten rid of as well as the kickdown switch, the kickdown solenoid and the neutral safety switch. However I wouldn't pull any of them until you find out where the open circuit is to allow you to start the car. I'd look into the neutral safety switch as the one most likely to be causing the no-start problem. Once you get the car in running condition again, you can try to take off one unneeded switch at a time, so that you don't end up with another open circuit. You may need to jump the switches with hard wired jumpers to get rid of what you don't need.

BTW, the diagrams I have don't show a yellow wire to the coil. Has this been added or been modified? Only two I see on all the diagrams are a black ground, and a black and white hot wire.

The solenoid you are hearing click may be the accessory solenoid on the kick panel.

Sounds like a good job for Daniel. Wonder where he's been hiding lately.

There is a yellow wire connected to 1 spade on the coil that goes through the firewall and a blue wire and a black wire on the other spade. The yellow wire might have been changed because there is no plastic cover over the connector like on the other wires.

Thanks for the quick reply!

Mark

I had the same problem when I had a automatic 260Z some 20 years ago. Had to ju8mp the terminals on the starter solenoid in order to get it started. Did this for about 4 months until I left for the Navy. That was a real pain, especially when it was below zero temperatures, drained many batteries.