240Z values in rust belt - 2007

[Arne]

People, I need to make a decision. Here on the West coast, I'm not getting any interest in my yellow Z at anywhere close to what I have in it in parts alone. If I'm lucky, I might be able to sell it for $2000 out here.

Can some of you folks back East look at the pictures and description in the following links? Tell me (honestly) what a car like this is worth in your part of the country. I need to decide whether to sell it here for whatever I can get, try to advertise it on craigslist in rust belt towns, or mess with eBay.

Description

More pictures

All opinions are welcome!

[CoastGuardZ]

Arne-

I can't imagine that you would get much more over here. On one side I would kill to have your dash, mine has like at least a half dozen BIG cracks, but that's the trade off for buying a SoCal car. You see mine has vertually no rust, I'm starting to get a bubble on the pass. dogleg, but other than that she is quite sound. I paid just over 5k including shipping, from the original owner nonetheless.

After subjectively looking at the links provided this is my take...

The rust worries me,

No bumpers is a big deal... we know that a good set isn't cheap,

As trivial as it is... the multiple color scheme means that if I were to buy it that I would be looking at having to do the body work, rust repair and full paint before driving it regularly.

Floor pans look to be in decent shape though.

So here is my suggestion to you , if you have the time...

Take care of the dog legs and some of the other big rust, throw a Maaco paint job on it and clean up the engine bay and you could probably get $4k for it pretty quickly on this side of the states.

FWIW-

Nate

[geezer]

Arne - I think Nate's take on it would echo my opinion. I don't know if you want to devote any more time and money on this car or not. If you were to spend a few weekends on rust removal and some cheap paint, it would pay off though. It would then look great in the pictures if you listed it on Ebay. You would get a lot more exposure on Ebay. I would also be a little more vague in the description, but offer to field any questions. That might go against your nature because you seem to be an upfront, brutaly honest guy. After all this is a "series 1"" car and is the perfect candidate for someone to finish the way they want it. That's why you bought it in the first place, right?

[DougN]

Arne,

My thoughts as follows:

If someone is looking for a daily driver, the price is good, but they are not likely to want to buy the car, then deal with getting the body work done. In this case, I would recommend getting the body work done, getting it painted, and then I think you could get as much as $5K to $7K for it using eBay.

If someone is looking for a project car, then I think that person would want to pay a little less for it, and put their $$$ into getting it restored, and I agree that in that case you may be able to get $2K for it.

I agree that eBay probably gives you the best chance to sell it, since it would appear from our board membership that everyone who wants a Z-Car in the Pacific NW already has one :classic: You could always try to stick in on eBay as it is, and put the reserve at $3K and see what happens. If it doesn't sell, get the work done and try it again. Although it will might be a hassle for you, I think you will find more ready buyers if the car is ready to go than for a project car.

[onuthin]

Arne Ditto what Nate said.Down here rust is a major problem so the ones around here are in no better shape and they go for about same as what you want for yours.Transportation is a major factor in the cost because of the distance.The most puzzeling thing I have noticed about the prices of 70/71 Zs is I have seen cars like yours go for around 4500 another just like it go for 1500. It makes no sense except maybe timing.If you put it out there at the time the right person is looking you could get your price.As far as fixing it up first you have to decide if your time is worth the extra it will bring.Personaly I love your car.The one I am starting on now is the same color.I like it better than my red one that is finished, and it is no where close to being done. Good luck

[xray]

Arne:

The Z I bought here on the East Coast was in better shape, and I paid $2100 for it. The quarter panel rust seems to be a harbinger of worse things underneath. New fenders for sure. The floors look similar to mine, which I ended up replacing after removing the soundproofing/undercoating stuff. Don't know if yours is as serious as mine, but it looks similar from the pics.

If I was looking to make a Z track car, I bet this is a good starting point. If it's for restoration, it's an easy 15-20k to get it right. IMO, it would still take at least 7k in parts, labor and paint to have a good DD.

If that car were in North Carolina, I think 2000-2500 is about right.

Here's a reference auction for a Z in Winston-Salem:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1971-240Z_W0QQitemZ300081722773QQihZ020QQcategoryZ6187QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

The above-mentioned car will probably go for higher than yours, simply because of it's "20-foot" appearance.

Just my $0.02.

Good luck,

Steve

[Carl Beck]

Hi Arne:

The value drivers on the Series I cars are Matching Numbers and Mostly Rust Free body.

If the car was sitting here in Florida/Georgia - it would sell for $2K to $3K. Which would mean that someone here back East would have to buy it for $2K, then add the shipping costs to get it here..$1K or more depending on the cost of fuel, so it most likely wouldn't sell.

Non-matching numbers knocks it out of the Collector Market, so not too many people are going to put the money it would take to "refresh" it - into it at this point. Most buyers are willing to put $3K to $5K into mechanical repairs, upgrades etc - but the same people will not get involved in $3K to $5K worth of body work and paint... (we've seen all threads on dealing with Body Shops).

There are still too many 240-Z's in the market with better bodies competing for buyers cash. True buyers here in the East will pay significantly higher prices for 240-Z's - but most of the time it's a solid body they are looking for and willing to pay for.

good luck,

Carl

[Arne]

Thanks to all who replied. Your thoughts all echo my own, and are exactly what I needed to see. As I see it right now, I have four options:

1.) Sell it locally, and hope to get $2000 for it. Easy, maybe quick and simple.

2.) Offer it on eBay, maybe with that same $2000 reserve, and hope for the best. Not quite as easy, quick or simple.

3.) Deal with the rust first, then sell it on eBay. More expense up front, since I'm not a bodyman, and would need to pay someone to do it for me. Might come out OK, but but might not. Should be an easier sale, though.

4.) Part it out. Start adding up the parts - early 4-screw SUs (no float drains) $150; good Series 1 console $50; decent dash maybe $100, used header $100; new radiator $150; turn signal and combo switches $50 each; E31 head $75; rebuilt heater box (new core, foam and valve) $75; complete wiring harness $150; Type A 4 speed $50; driver-quality tail lights $100; working clock $?; more??? That's over a grand there, conservatively. A lot of work, and one less 240Z on the road though. Not bloody likely.

Again, thanks to all for your thoughts. I'll keep you posted on where this all goes.

[BRE-240Z]

5) Keep it, and drive it.

Since you have a very nice low mileage '71, this would give you an option for those days when you want to get out in the twisties without worrying about putting a scratch on your baby....

Might not be possible due to driveway, spousal, and other constraints, but if it is...........

[lonetreesteve]

Arne,

My advice would be to list it on Ebay and not try to part it out, you won't get nearly as much money out of it. Also, since its original matching engine is gone and it has rust issues, I wouldn't put any more money into the car, because you will never get it back when you try to sell it. Like a couple of the other members said, it can't hurt to try Ebay. Good luck with the sale.

[Arne]

You know, it's not all about the money. The yellow car taught me a lot, and helped me make some great new friends. At the time I bought it, it seemed right. Time has proven that to be at least partially wrong, but such is life.

You know, if I could get the rust, body and paint done decently well for $3000, I'd be tempted to do it. It wouldn't take much to make a nice driver out of it at that point. But I don't think there are any shops around here that would do it for that.

It really needs a buyer who does their own body and paint...

[CoastGuardZ]

Arne,

I have to disagree with Steve a bit. I think you should put a little money into it. I feel that if it was an original numbers matching car that you could still sell it for enough to leave it as is... but, since it is not most people will look at it as a rusty old car that needs a lot of help. I think because of it's glaringly obvious rust issues you would be lucky to get $2k for it. I feel a non-numbers matching car could easily draw $4k to $5K here in the aforementioned "rust belt". Let's be honest, not everybody is a collector looking for rarity and originality... some people just want a good/cool looking and fun to drive Z car. It's that collector guy that's looking rarity and would rather take a shell, without being able to drive it and spend years getting it just perfect... just ask Chris

That being said I wouldn't drop more than $1500-2000 in it before trying to sell it. So if that sounds acceptable, cool. If not, please don't part it out... just take what you can get.

Nate