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pulling a dent from fuel tank?


zwhore

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anyone ever try this?

my 76 is super clean, even the fuel tank looks new,except for a huge dent on the left side of it.

i was thinking of droping the tank, removing the float assembly and using a large wood dowel to try an pop it out from the inside.

thoughts?

thanks

tony

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anyone ever try this?

my 76 is super clean, even the fuel tank looks new,except for a huge dent on the left side of it.

i was thinking of droping the tank, removing the float assembly and using a large wood dowel to try an pop it out from the inside.

thoughts?

thanks

tony

I've never tried this, but I think I would try from the outside of the tank. Obviously you don't want to weld pull rods to the tank, but maybe you could clean off some spots and epoxie some rods on several pull points. Use gently, continuous pulls so as not to pop off the glue points. This would, also avoid fulcrum or leaverage points needed to work out the dent from the inside and possible distorting the fuel sending unit hole.

Just something to consider.

Dan

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It might be worth a shot, but after cleaning and resealing my '78 tank last year, I can't imagine that you'll have enough room to work through the sending unit or filler neck holes. They are not very big and there is a large pipe running vertically in the center of the tank that might block your stick. Do you have pics of the dent?

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How about http://www.gastankrenu.com

Even tho it looks new inside these guys could probably cut out the area in question, patch and weld as needed to get it looking like it should, plus seal the inside so you won't ever have any problems in the future. Sort of like an insurance policy in advance, but prior to you ever having a problem. Just a thought...When I sent them my tank I had a pretty big area on the bottom of the tank where it was caved in, plus it was somewhat rusty inside. After I got it back could not even tell where the caved in area was.

webdawg1

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I pulled my tank off the other day and it has an indention about the size of a dinner plate. I think I might have come up with a way to pull it out with no cutting.First I was going to put all the hoses that will fit from one nipple to another and tighten up the clamps the best I can. Then cap all the holes left.Next rig a way to pressureise the inside of the tank. Next strap the tank to an immoble object and place a magnet that I bought at a welding supply company that will pick up to 200 pounds in the center of the dent with a cable attached to the back of my truck.Then start off easy pulling to see what happens. If that don't work increase slack and snatch it. Keep on until you pull it out or maybe go to plan B,whatever that is.

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I think the magnet idea is worth a shot but I'd be real carefull about pressurizing the tank. I'll never do that again. I removed a good sized indentation from a motorcycle tank with air pressure. It worked great but when I went to install it, I found out it was spread out almost an inch wider. Funny now, but cost me alot to replace the tank. Couldn't get it back to its original dimensions nohow! :stupid:

PS - If you try this get someone to film it! :classic:

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If it don't leak it leave a lone....However if you can get a large wooden dowell (wrap the end in tape to prevent splinters in tank) and use a plastic faced hammer.If you have time and a air hose/compressor ,use a air blower and hose to blow out the fumes in tank....It takes awhile.... like over night (compressor should be away from tank)than bang away on your stick....Just remember sparks=flaming death...Or wise pay some who repairs gas tanks for a living do it....

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David;

While your advice about removing gas fumes is well meant, the problem is that even overnight forced ventilation at pressure will STILL leave enough fumes to be problematic. However, using a wooden dowel will elimininate having any sparks...unless you leave nails in the dowel.

Tony:

If you have access to a STUD WELDER, which is used to attach pins to the metal which are then pulled on with a slide hammer. This is the same procedure that Dan mentioned in post #2, except that in order to eliminate the possibility of igniting the fumes in the tank, you simply fill the tank with water.

The Stud Welder will work on the outside of the tank, allowing you to attach various studs in concentric circles around the dent.

Then to pull the dent out you work from the outside of the dent, in to the center, pulling very gently on each stud as the metal will have been hardened by the quenching involved while welding the stud in place.

All th is involves risk, is not easy for a beginner to do without the possibility of failure...either in the possibility of damaging the gas tank, or in hurting oneself. So, if it's really ... REALLY ... something to mess with, take precautions, or take it to the professionals. But be aware that sometimes the repair iis worse than the problem. The guys at Gas Tank Renu are good at restoring rusted and cracked tanks when there is little hope for the tank (and be aware of their very hard and rough looking finish), but may turn out to be way overkill for a dent.

But as mentioned by David, if it isn't leaking at all, why mess with it?

FWIW

E

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Even if it's not leaking, A dent is a dent. But here's an idea for ya.

Drop the tank just enough to access all the holes and spouts. Seal off the filler neck and all but one of the breather tubes. Then get your air compressor up and running and fill the fuel tank up with air.

once you've got enough air in there, you'll only have to tap on the tank around the dented area. If you have enough pressure built up in there, it should pop right out without any problems.

No welding rods, no poking around your tank with a stick, no Explosions or splinters. And the other good thing is you can LEAVE THE GAS IN THERE, and if the dent leaks, you'll instantly know and also know exactly where the leak is.

I did this to mine and it worked like a charm.

JM2CW,

Dave.

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It's interesting that this seems to be a chronic problem. I think that when these tanks are strapped back up if they are removed for whatever reason just the palm of ones hand can dent them when your holding them in place and strapping them up.

I think I may have the solution for the problem if you are going to take it down and empty the tank other then sending it to a place like Moyers Fuel Tank Renu who I used to re doe my tank.

Call Dent Wizard or Dent X or one of those companies that takes dents out of the body panels. They can get in their with their tools and work the dent out I am sure. Good ones are like magicians. I have used them so many times on my cars and I have yet to be able to tell that the vehicle was ever dinged or dented. Price about 75-125 bucks a panel so what could a dent in a gas tank cost?

McKrack

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