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Removing Smog components


Robertmh

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My terminology may not be correct but i have done extensive searching in an attempt to remove the extra components in the engine bay involving smog removal, and since i no longer need to pass emissions i am looking to remove these items. i drive a 1973 240 with SU carbs. please help direct me in where i can find this information. thanks for your help.

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Robert,

Welcome to the board! Since your in Atlanta like me, I would recommend you take your car to Eddie Radatz (e.radatz motorsports) and let him take off the extra stuff. There are some holes that need to be plugged as well. He has done this to both of my Z's when I had them in for other maintenance. His shop is at 961 Shallowford Road NE, Kennesaw, Georgia 30144, phone 770.926.6609. BTW, he works only on Z-cars, and has been working on them since they came out. :classic:

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Just remove it.... There will be a few places that you will have to close up with a nut. Also on the smog rail you will have to use a plumbing fixture to close it off, on mine it looks like the thing you use when closing off a water pipe. It is easy for the average "do-it-yourselfer".

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Beware that threads on the intake manifold ports are BSPT (British Standard Pipe Threads) which are very close to the common American NPT but threads per inch (or centimeter) are different. A purist will use BSPT, those not so pure will ram the NPT plug into the aluminum.

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Robert,

I made a good bit of money removing this stuff when I was in college in the early 70's. It's not that hard, but on an older car you might hit some problems with frozen and rusted bolts, so you might want to let bolts soak with some penetrating oil before you start.

If you're going to do it, go all the way and remove the smog galley (pipes that run into the exhaust manifold) instead of just plugging at the check valve. It will look a lot cleaner.

Mostly it's just undoing bolts and putting everything back together once you're done.

Bob

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The toughest part will be to remove the air injection tubes from the cylinders. Start soaking them with PB Blaster or better, now! Soak them and resoak them, for a couple of days. Maybe if you are lucky, you can remove them and keep the tube in one piece. I had to cut mine, to get an impact socket on the nuts, to get them out. I had some pix in my gallery, but they have gotten lost somewhere in the last couple of years. If I find them, I'll post them again.

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Be aware that California has changed it's rules to include older cars in the smog testing. I have heard that our illustrious governor is adapting the same rules as Calif in Oregon . I have eliminated all the emissions on my Z and I see the air pumps alone have a core charge of $200.00. If in your area you do not need to pass emissions . I would pull the stuff . But keep it all. Just in case . Gary

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  • 2 weeks later...
Beware that threads on the intake manifold ports are BSPT (British Standard Pipe Threads) which are very close to the common American NPT but threads per inch (or centimeter) are different. A purist will use BSPT, those not so pure will ram the NPT plug into the aluminum.

How do I go about attaining british standard pipe thread bolts?

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How do I go about attaining british standard pipe thread bolts?

I would try British Auto parts stores-here are some in your area:

San Francisco, Auto/Motorcycle Repair

British & European Auto Service

1385 Harrison St, San Francisco, CA 94103 Map (415) 861-3030

San Francisco, Auto/Motorcycle Repair

British Motor Car Dist

901 Van Ness Ave, San Francisco, CA 94109 Map (415) 776-7700

San Francisco, Auto/Motorcycle Repair

British Motor Cars

999 Van Ness Ave, San Francisco, CA 94109 Map (415) 474-7796

San Francisco, Auto/Motorcycle Repair

Brizuela's Auto Body Shop

3910 3rd St, San Francisco, CA 94124 Map (415) 647-7672

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If Zbane's suggestions do not work, try going to a store which specializes in hydraulic hoses, couplings, etc. I assume you want "plugs" for the open ports and they can be ordered from Parker fittings thru your hydraulic store.

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