Gold code 918 70 240z automatic on ebay

[jonathanrussell]

This is my first time posting. I have been a steady reader for a long time, however. What do you guys think of this car? What do you think it is worth? Here is the link.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1970-Datsun-240Z-Series-1_W0QQitemZ150100387710QQcategoryZ6187QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Have any of you seen it in person? Is it as nice as the photos appear (as well as the photos he sends when you request)?

Thank you for any input you may offer.

[76Datsun280z]

I'd say it's in great shape! I mean, it doesn't appear to have much rust from the photo's he included ie, under battery, quarter panels ext. Looks to be a great original low mileage car in my opinion from what the photos tell!

[Arne]

That car has been for sale locally in Portland for quite some time. My guess is that when inspected in person, people feel it is over-priced. And I may agree - for the BIN of $15000 it had better be REALLY good. But then, I haven't seen it in person.

All that said, the pictures show it as a Series 1 car that appears to be in very similar condition to my Series 2. A car that needs perhaps a mild refresh to be really great, but would make a very nice driver as is. The automatic is a bit of a minus to many of us, but not to others.

Seems nice - but $15k?? That might still be a stretch.

[JLPurcell]

I have been watching the car, I agree with Arne, the automatic is a minus with me. If the car is as advertised it would be a nice car to restore. I am still thinking about making an offer. I have also been watching the silver 71 with 78k miles in AZ listed on ebay. It may be able to be bought right and would also make a nice restore. Is there anyone in the area that has seen the car or would be willing to take a look? Thanks Jerry

[jonathanrussell]

It would be interesting to know what the reserve is. Opening is 10K. BIN is 15K. Kind of a big difference. I agree that automatic is a negative...for me as well. I could change it though...I suppose.

[Arne]

It would be interesting to know what the reserve is. Opening is 10K. BIN is 15K. Kind of a big difference. I agree that automatic is a negative...for me as well. I could change it though...I suppose.

Been there, done that.

I'd recommend against converting to a manual in that particular car. Not because it's difficult, because it's not. I did it on my yellow car, which is the same month production and only ~300 cars difference. With a bit of time and effort, the conversion can be done very well.

But the only thing which can possibly make that car worth that price (even the $10k opening) is the fact that it is still original, or very close. While a four or five speed would make it a better driver (in the opinion of many, but not all), it definitely would not improve the value, and if not done absolutely meticulously, might actually reduce the value of the car.

As has been pointed out recently to me (and I totally agree), the value driver on the cars built prior to 1/71 is numbers matching originality. Converting to a manual transmission is going to pollute the originality of the car.

In the case of the car I converted, originality was no longer a factor, as the matching numbers engine was gone before I bought the car. So converting a car that can never be totally original again is not a big issue.

Here again, we need to identify your goal. Are you looking for a car to restore and show? Or one to drive? If you want to restore a show car, this should be a good start. For a car that is restored to show, the automatic is not a liability, in fact it could be a good thing as it might set the car apart from the more common four speed examples.

But if you are looking for a car to make a nice driver or weekend cruiser out of, it's the wrong car, unless you can live with the automatic. Otherwise I'd recommend starting with a car that is either already a four speed car, or a much less expensive automatic car that isn't so original.

If you are looking to have a 240Z that is pretty much original and is a manual transmission, I'd wait for a similar car to this one, but not an automatic.

[jonathanrussell]

I pretty much agree with what you are saying. As to "what I am looking for", I would say a great rust free unibody in a car that can be driven for a while and ultimately restored.

Correct me if I am wrong, but unless one possesses the original window sticker or original invoice, there is nothing about a z car that indicates what kind of transmission is in it.

[nwcubsman]

You are right. There is no give away if the tranny has been swapped with another period correct tranny.

The upside to an Automatic is that they, in general, have been driven less roughly. I bought an AT car a year and a half ago, because I feel I got alot of car for $5k. My 2¢.

[Carl Beck]

oops...

Carl B.

[Arne]

Correct me if I am wrong, but unless one possesses the original window sticker or original invoice, there is nothing about a z car that indicates what kind of transmission is in it.

You are right. There is no give away if the tranny has been swapped with another period correct tranny.

Not quite correct. I have identified several differences in the body shell that are present, depending on the build date. Automatic bodies typically do not have the clutch pedal stop welded to the floorboard. Many do not have the metal mount on the right side frame rail where the metal clutch fluid line connects to the hose. (Although I have seen one automatic built around this time time that did have this mount.) Automatic shells do have an extra mount welded in behind the dash for what we generally call the kick-down switch. And finally the automatic shells have four or six holes with captive nuts in the transmission tunnel for the shift selector assembly to bolt to.

Also remember that both the dash and engine compartment wiring harnesses are different for automatics, as is the distributor.

So converting to a manual in such a manner that no one could ever tell is far more difficult than it sounds.

The upside to an Automatic is that they, in general, have been driven less roughly. I bought an AT car a year and a half ago, because I feel I got alot of car for $5k. My 2¢.

This though, is very true, at least in all the cars I have seen here in Oregon. The un-restored automatics seem to all have led a much easier life.

[Carl Beck]

That car has been for sale locally in Portland for quite some time. My guess is that when inspected in person, people feel it is over-priced. And I may agree - for the BIN of $15000 it had better be REALLY good. But then, I haven't seen it in person.

All that said, the pictures show it as a Series 1 car that appears to be in very similar condition to my Series 2. A car that needs perhaps a mild refresh to be really great, but would make a very nice driver as is. The automatic is a bit of a minus to many of us, but not to others.

Seems nice - but $15k?? That might still be a stretch.

Hey... is this the same Arne that was telling me that the Silver Pig in Texas, with Lip Stick - WAS worth $15K - - and how your saying that a Series I car with 39K original miles isn't worth $15K???

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1971-Datsun-240z-Mint-Condition-California-Beauty_W0QQitemZ290092734632QQcategoryZ6187QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Have you been in the cabin too long this Winter :-)...

Someone has now bid that Silver 71 up to $10,101.00 - if that car is worth $10K - then the Series I car is worth $18K AT or no AT... even with a few dents in the floor.. heck - a crack free Series I dash alone is worth a grand..

Time for a Florida Vacation Arne... come on down!

Carl B.

[jonathanrussell]

Interesting. I knew that the harness and distributor and even the alternator I think were different but did not realize that there were more "permanent" unibody differences. Thanks for the info. My first zcar was a 72 automatic.