Yes the TLPV can be a big PIA to take out. Always consider that you will need a new pin and nuts to replace the beat up one that comes out and just purchase these parts prior to starting the job.

As for the bushings, this is a job for the shop press that sits in the corner of the garage just waiting for this type of thing. Almost nothing that a 30 ton shop press won't eventually push out or break.

If all else fails new control arms with new bushings is the easy answer, but poly does make a difference for ultimite control.

Just remember to use alot of antisieze or good grease when putting things back together again and next time it is no problem to take it apart.

I must be the only one this was easy for. Removing the rubber was relatively easy. Put the control arm in your vice and slightly heat the rubber. Enough so that the inside metal portion of the bushing is easily moved back and forth. What you need to do is the get the inside of the portion to slide out enough to get in a pair of vice grips. I then turned it back and forth clockwise and counterclockwise until I tore the rubber holding the inside and outside "race" together. I then tossed that part aside and took a swill of my ice cold becks.

Step two, can be done two ways. heat the outside of the control arm where the bushing is pressed and use a bearing driver that is the same diameter as the outside of the bushing. One of mine tapped right out with a few well placed blows.

To get the other three out I had insert the hacksaw through the hole and cut a nice groove in the bushing (after the rubber center is out). YOu do not want to cut all the way through!!!!!!!!!!!!! A nice saw curf if you will. I used a sharp punch and hammer to start with, however the trick is to get the bushing to start bending in to resemble the shape of a ">)"

I hope that made some sort of sense. I need a darn scanner!

Ok -- I am joining the club and I have to say -- THIS SUXX!!!

I have mushroomed both sides of the spindle pin and I still cannot seem to get it out....

If there is a tool for this job, please let me know as I have 3 left to go... And I have not even finished the first one!!!

AKK!

This Job is coming up for me around the end of the month.

You guys are NOT helping me to look forward to it.

How much are new control arms??????

Not cheap -- suggestion -- Buy new pins -- they did not come out of mine very clean at all!

I am going to buy new ones (and some anti-sieze)!

How much are new control arms??????

I seem to remember about the $150 to $200 range per control arm. I screwed around with mine so much that I just said f**K it and bought new control arms.

After reading all these post, and then consulting my Chiltons manual that says "remove bolts and then remove pin" I figured what the hell,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Now what the heck have I done, the spindle pin surely ruined. I have it half way out. I need a bigger hammer. I just hope the outer race is less forgiving that the damn spindle.

DOH!

:cross-eye

ok so you need to remove those recalcitrant spindle pins?

I knew they would be trashed by the time I was finished, so I ordered new pins and fasteners well in advance from MSA:classic:

When I got down to it, the LHS just tapped out with no drama:D

Now the RHS made up for all the times Murphy was not around.

Soooooo to make it all a manageable problem I cut the spindle pin through at each side of the strut with a hacksaw.

That leaves three short lengths of the pin to press out, 1 in the front bush, 1 in the strut base and 1 in the rear bush:classic:

Now just about any shop with a press will be able to rig something up to remove those 3 little suckers:devious:

Lets face it they are only about $35 each and if they have never been replaced before your rear end will appreciate a nice fresh pivot pin:love:

When I did this job I made a spindle pin extraction tool.

Ok we can call it a puller for short. The job was not bad

at all. I even went to the local wrecking yard to further

test the tool and I pulled 6 pins and on the 7th the end

of the pin broke offf. I was even able to come back with

extra pins. I have further info on making the tool and a

couple docs on how I used it.

http://12.224.138.56:8884/Files/Datsun/Strut-Pin-Tool/

Could a bad spindle pin be the coulprit to a "clunk" noise in my rear end? It happens only when I hit a bump and only on the drivers side.