Time to Paint!!!!

[TBK1]

Thanks for the links and advice! gonna start this am, tech sheets in hand!!

Like a kid on xmas morn! heheheh

The paper on the wall is for spray test patterns!

[geezer]

Looks like you are almost set. I don't know what type of spray equipment you are using but maybe you should cover anything you don't want spray dust to get on. Another problem you will experience is your shoes sticking to the ground sheet. Keep a shallow pan of water close by to dip you shoes in when nessesary. Lastly Good Luck & make Enrique proud!

[TBK1]

man!!! it aint been a good day so far@!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i'll expound later!!!!!!1

[TBK1]

My gun has fu*ked up all day will quit spraying in the middle of a batch, I ran out of sealer, didnt have any more small quanities in town, had to buy a GALLON, not happy, some runs, trying to repair, arrrggghhhh!!!!

[EScanlon]

Bart;

The post you refer to, specifically post #22, explains that it was the PEARL that caused the problems. Pearl, is/was considered a Candy Paint "back in the day" so to speak. (Candies being those paints with color but being transparent/translucent.)

Most non-metallic and non-"effect" style paints (color changing, transparent, gloss inhibitors, fluorescent over white base) will not usually be affected from vertical hanging versus horizontal. I've always been partial to painting doors and hoods, etc ON the car, but there are times when that is simply NOT possible or practical. At that time the deciding factor will always be the paint.

Fast (Reader's Digest version) explanation:

When you spray the paint, due to gravity and static electricity the particles within the paint align themselves in one direction. When shooting at different angles to gravity and general static charges in the air, you end up with different angles of the particles set in the final paint. When you put two of those items in close proximity to each other, then most of the time, it becomes very obvious that they shine, reflect light, or simply have a different "color" while being the same paint from the same shoot.

Metallic paints have actual bits of metal flake in them, not in "rock" form, but in tiny flat slivers. They reflect light on the flat surface. When they are sprayed they attain a specific angle, and usually will not "flatten" out any more while drying/setting. This results in different angles of refraction. Pearls also fall into this category.

Candie paints on the other hand, are like painting with Kool-Aid. The stuff is transparent and you would think that it shouldn't matter. Well candies are paints that build up their hue by how thick (number of coats) the paint is over a given base color. The thickness of a coat of paint on a horizontal surface is MUCH different than the thickness on a vertical surface. On the horizontal it's simply thick, on the vertical....it runs or sags. (Gravity at work here.)

You might think that CLEAR might have the same problems. Well ONLY if you are planning on doing a bunch of sanding to remove orange peel or doing a lot of buffing. Then, it may be problematic. Most problems with clear are orange peel or dry-lining. Then again, gravity can play on that also.

Well, I tried for the Reader's Digest version.

FWIW

Enrique

[TBK1]

No keep up the chapter versions, I LIKE IT!!!!!! ok I have calmed down a bit here is the sealer , then the base, only one run that I couldnt get covered up!! clear maybe tomorrow!!

[EScanlon]

Sure looks purty!!!

Check the data sheet on your paint for the length of time you have to clear coat without having to sand.

If you're going to be on the outside limits of it (and while the data sheet is somewhat "pessimistic", meaning you might be able to get away with 48 hours if the sheet says 36, but don't use that as a guide), you might consider going ahead and wet-sanding the color base NOW and eliminating the bulk of the orange peel you've had AND that run.

What I'm trying to say, (you're right the RD versions can be tough) is that IF the time before you MUST sand the color to apply clear is like 24 hours, then go ahead and wait and let the paint cure to the sandable stage. Again, this will be listed on your data sheet. Then using the grit paper recommended, sand the color base and remove any orange peel and the run. If your sandpaper starts clogging up with little balls of paint, then it's too soon to be sanding. STOP and let it cure some more.

If on the other hand, your data sheet says it's ok to clear coat within 48 hours, then you can go for it.

BUT, and this is a big one (no pun intended), if you have ANY imperfections you want to address (that run), NOW is the time to do so. When you shoot the clear, it will MAGNIFY any flaws, and make it harder to eliminate that run and / or the orange peel.

A note on painting clear is also important to make.

Shooting clear is unlike shooting regular paint....while being the same thing as shooting paint. Huh?

While you do load your gun the same way, reduce the clear the same way, and add any hardeners etc the same way, when you shoot clear....YOU CANNOT SEE IT WELL. That's because...DUH!! It is CLEAR!

So, in order to avoid running the clear, or not shooting enough on any one panel, use additional lights all over the area you're painting. In fact, if you have someone to help you, have them hold a lamp over the work area (and have them watch their cord) so that you can see by the GLOSS of the clear as you paint it where you have and haven't covered.

Additionally, you do not need to start with a heavy coat nor with a mist coat. Start with a single pass (also referred to as a single wet) coat. Go all around the car, and then repeat after allowing it to flash. Additional coats will give additional luster and "depth", PLUS they'll give you something to buff if you want to really gloss the car out.

You can be proud of what you've done up to now. Good Job!

Hope this helps.

Enrique

[Mr Camouflage]

Did you weld up the join where the headlight bucket meets the fender?

[=Enigma=]

Looking good man! I wish I had that kind of space to work in.

[TBK1]

Thanks E, the run i dont think I can fix, it was in the sealer!!!!!!!!!! And I had no patience to let it dry for a day the sand it out then re seal!! sorry!! but the base looks damn good , and thanks for the sanding base thing, I was gonna ask if I could. The spec sheet says after 7 Days I would have to resand before clear so I think Ill sand base today and try to spray clear this evening!

Yes the buckets were tack welded in and then filled, they are not perfect forgo I am NOT a body and PAINT man!!!!!!!, this one is just another toy anyway will prob end up selling it, it was just something to do in spare time which ended up FULL TIME!!

And in the mist of all this some chick pulled up and asked if I would like to buy her 92 300zx with new motor and new trans, for 2000.00, like I need another, oh well Ill prob add it to the colection hehehehe.

[TBK1]

Almost forgot 3/4 gallon of base applied!!! still got my emergency pre quart!

[EScanlon]

Since it allows you so much time before you MUST sand for clear-coating, check to make sure it is not too EARLY to sand at all.

You'll know it as soon as you start to sand though, if you end up with little balls of paint literally falling off the car, and your sandpaper getting clogged within a few strokes....the paint's TOO fresh and must cure longer.

You could "accelerate" this process a bit, by using plain old temperature. But I don't know if you want to try raising the temperature in your garage to 150° or whatever the data sheet says is the optimal curing temp.

But note one important item, if you DO begin to sand, then you're committed to doing the whole car, not just a piece and then figure what the heck and start painting clear. Appearance, gloss and most importantly texture will come into play then.

FWIW

E