Not this again!

[albert_ey]

I hate this "LOVE-HATE" Relationship... This car just drives me nuts sometimes.

Here is a List of things I have done to her:

1. Rebuilt entire engine

2. Replaced all gaskets for engine and Transmission

3. Replaced Master and slave(clutch) cylinder

4. Put in an electronic ignition.

5. Replaced Voltage Regulator

6. Replaced all 4 Shocks/Struts and put in some Eibach lowering springs.

7. Refinished and restored gas tank and replaced all fuel lines and filter.

8. Replaced Radiator and all hoses

9. New fan clutch

10. New fan clutch again, the other new one went out. Defective?

11. New battery

12. New starter and alternator

13. New clutch and flywheel

14. New tires

15. New headlights

16. Replaced windshield wiper motor and arm.

and the darn thing is still not reliable. All I thought I needed was the body work now, but boy am I wrong. I guess i'll have to take her to an Auto Electric shop but before I do maybe someone can help.

Here is the problem, when I turn on the car, turn on the headlights then disconnect the battery the car turns off, but if I hold down the throttle(just a bit)then turn on the lights and disconnect the battery the car stays on. I had the alternator checked and it is fine. If I have the headlights turned of the car stays on but it sounds and looks like it wants to turn off but doesn't. It just idles low, I have adjusted the idling and it just seems to drop low again.

Sorry for the nuisance and thanks for all the help.

Is she cursed or is this normal? I just feel like selling her sometimes, but then I wake up and realize that i'm not in the right state of mind.

[hls30.com]

Why are you disconnecting the battery with the car running?

The alternator is just big enough to power the wipers, the headlights and the ignition with a clean and new electrical system.

either go through the primary electrical system and clean all the connections, put a smaller diameter pulley on the alternator, or get a higher output alternator.

Will

[albert_ey]

Well, I was having a problem with a short before, and I just like to make sure it's charging before I take it on the road.

So is it normal for it to turn off when the lights are on?

and where can I find a Higher output alternator.

Thanks

[Zs-ondabrain]

First off Albert, Most of our alternators don't put out a charge to the battery unless you are above idle (around 1100 RPM's and higher) Most 240Z's with a low idle will try to die if you ask too much of the battery before it's actually getting a charge.

The reason your cars keeps running after disconnecting the battery while giving it a little gas is because you're no longer at idle and the alternator is doing it's job.

One other thing, If you like your alternator and voltage regulator, Don't ever disconnect your battery while the car is running. The alternator puts out an alternating current (similar to AC) and the battery is a DC cell which is Direct current. The battery also smooths out the ripple in the voltage flow and without that smoothing effect, you can blow your voltage regulator and do damage to the alternator.

Next time use a $5.00 voltage meter. It'll tell you everything you need to know. If you shorten (smaller) the pulley on the alternator, it'll kick out the voltage at idle rather than turning your idle up to compensate.

If you have a 240Z, you can swap out the alternator for a 280ZX alternator which is also internally regulated. Buy one of my ZX adaptor plugs for $15 and the instal is a breeze (about 20 minutes)

Dave

[280z1975]

Here are two threads on Alternator Upgrades:

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22260&highlight=alternator+upgrade

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23449&highlight=alternator+upgrade

Also, I bought the 105amp alternator from Z Specialties, it has worked out quite well as I can run my headlights on bright (I have the headlight harness relay upgrade, a VERY good upgrade to do) have the wipers working and the 500watt amp in my car running the stereo with no worries. I will say that of most of the electrical lines in my car, most SUCK and for the major electrical components I have replaced them with new ones.

http://www.datsunstore.com/product_info.php/products_id/1?osCsid=0ba4a5df41ed47890e740b2ec25880e0

An example is the original 12+ volt line for the stereo. It had conductivity, but would only put out 6.5 volts of electricity, so I had to run new ones. At some point I am going to replace all the wires in my engine bay with new ones. Electrical Gremlins are the WORST problem I feel of the Z cars. As they are the hardest to diagnose and the fix.

[GreenZZZ]

Another data point for you. I didn't get much better engine performance after going from a stock distributor to a Malory Unilite ignition setup on my '72. After upgrading the alternator and headlight/parking light wiring, my motor started running much smoother and starts easier. My guess is the better amperage output is allowing the coil to hit the plugs with more voltage but that doesn't explain the better starts. Another thought is my regulator was bad all along.

[albert_ey]

Thanks! I didn't know some of that stuff, i'll look into buying a new alternator from a 280zx.

[ta240]

Also, I bought the 105amp alternator from Z Specialties,

I second the vote for the Z Specialties one. I went through several different alternators through the years before getting it. Had the 45 Amp 240, the 50 amp 240, tried the 100 amp GM alternator but the custom bracket cracked and the other problem there was it wouldn't start doing anything at all until the engine was around 1000 rpm. Then went with the 60 amp 280Z alternator before finally getting the Z Specialties one. Now the lights never dim even with the highbeams, and electric radiator fan on etc.

-Trevor

www.geocities.com/z-car

[HizAndHerz]

... tried the 100 amp GM alternator but the custom bracket cracked and the other problem there was it wouldn't start doing anything at all until the engine was around 1000 rpm.

I've been using GM alternators with excellent results. The existing alternator-to-engine bracket can be easily modified without welding. Swapping the pulley fixes the RPM issue.

I can see why the Z Specialties alternator is a great choice, but with three Z-cars in our family, using the GM alternator made a lot more sense (1/3 the cost, get a replacement anywhere).

Here's an article on the alternator swap for those interested: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115550

[71ZZZZZ]

Another data point for you. I didn't get much better engine performance after going from a stock distributor to a Malory Unilite ignition setup on my '72. After upgrading the alternator and headlight/parking light wiring, my motor started running much smoother and starts easier. My guess is the better amperage output is allowing the coil to hit the plugs with more voltage but that doesn't explain the better starts. Another thought is my regulator was bad all along.

+1 on the Unilite...rock solid performance and steady dwell for a fully saturated coil. I think the problems with the stock contact points are after several firings the flat surfaces start getting pitted and probably don't conduct as well as when new. Then the gap changes affecting the ignition process. I hated the point float but it went away with the Unilite. If you haven't done so yet, get yourself a spare LED module or two. When that goes, you're DITW...

[=Enigma=]

I thought you were selling that thing and going back to school?