Jump to content
Email-only Log-Ins Coming in December ×

IGNORED

body/paint help please!!


astrohog

Recommended Posts

I know that paint/body advice is highly arbitrary/relative, but I would really appreciate some words of wisdom from the others here who have ventured here before me.

I own a (12/70) 1971 240Z. It was originally silver and was repainted red (what I would call a Maaco job). The rubber was masked (but NOT well), the oil change paper sticker on the door jamb was painted over as were all the door strikers and associated screws and such in the door jambs, etc. THe engine compartment is still silver as is the inside of the rear hatch. There are some "bubbles" starting to apper on the hood and front fenders.

I have had some pretty knowledgeable Z guys take their icepick (read: rustpick!!) and check out my car pretty thouroughly and they said that I had very little rust! (amazing as this is a Washington car that has travelled from East coast to West coast and been to Hawaii, Ireland and Spain inbetween! (the original owner was a Submarine Captain!)). The battery box has surface rust only. I have scraped the tar mats off the floors and the drivers side shows SOME surface rust, but NO holes. The passenger side floor does have ONE hole (quarter size). there is some rust in both doglegs and it was suggested that I buy the replacement doglegs and have them welded in. The only other rust that I am aware of is in the rear panel INSIDE behind the black plastic finisher panel.

This is an all original car in overall really great shape!! The dash and interior are in GREAT shape!! (black carpets are BADLY faded and will be replaced. Drivers seat has cracks and the foam is broken down/protruding and will get new foam and vinyl soon) Other than the carpet and seats, I have no plans on doing anything major to the interior.

OKAY, now the questions:

1. Should I go ahead and do the floorpan replacement, knowing that I plan on keeping this car for a good, long time? or should I just fix the one hole on pass. side and do the POR-15 thing?

2. I want to return the car to silver, but am thinking that I do not necessarily want to match the original exactly as I want to do a quality base/clear for looks and longevity. I want to repaint the engine compartment as well. I am thinking I will be removing ALL exterior lights, emblems, bumpers, headlight buckets and all glass when it is painted as well as removing the hood, doors and hatch. After removing all of the stuff I just mentioned, would it be recommended to remove all the interior components as well? (i.e. DASHBOARD, diamond vinyl, seats, trim panels, etc. etc.?) I tend to be on the perfectionist side and believe in doing something right IF it is going to be done, but with that being said, can I expect a reasonably good paint job if the dash and interior components stay installed?

3.Will I save substantial time and money by trying to match the original silver? What I want to use is a 2005 VW silver that is kinda close, but will be noticebly different say, where it might meet the original silver under the carpet in the rear hatch area.

In summary:

1. replace or repair floor pans?

2.How far should I go to disassemble? I want a NICE job, but do not want to remove and completely strip ALL components unless absolutely necessary! (especially dash and electrical!!)

3.To match the original silver or not to match original? I know that I should paint it a color I will be happy with, and do prefer the more modern silvers, but I am not THAT much more fond of the modern vs. original if it makes sense to stay true to the original.

Thanks for bearing with me! I hope I have presented a clear picture of the state of my car and what I want to accomplish!

Now for your replies.....

I can't wait!

Regards,

Astrohog

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I just painted my car as close to the original as possible.

I removed the...

Hatch

Hood

Cowl

front and rear windows

Quarter windows

Door seals

inner and outer hatch seals along with all the hardware and hinges

Headlight assemblies but left the buckets on

Side markers and all emblems

I left the doors on but removed the door handles, locks, and mirrors

bumpers, grill and hood catch rod.

Did the body work, cleaned, replaced or fixed all the hardware and rubber.

As for the paint under the floor mats and rear hatch area, those are always covered and nobody EVER see them. It's up to you to what extent you want to go but unless you're going for absolute perfection or as Will likes to say "Concoarse" I'd say do what needs to be done but save yourself all the electrical and interior problems of R+R (remove and replace)

If the rust on the floor pans is just surface rust. Remove as much as possible then use a rust converter then remat the floorboards after fixing the hole(s) I guess it all depends on the condition of the metal. Floor pan replacement is not that easy and if it can be avoided succesfully, by all means, go the easier route.

Dave.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Astrohog,

I removed everything except engine and wheels. The dash was easy, because I labeled everything. I could imagine if I did not label anything, then I could get confused. I had no choice when it came to the interior. My floors were pretty much gone. I had to replace, so I pulled everything. This is a link that shows how far I went. I actually removed most of the other items that I forgot later.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25371

Good luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would patch the floor if it is a small hole, but you might be surprised when you start sanding. It will be covered with Dynamat when finished. The interior is easy but it takes time to remove the fabric and replace it. Unless you need to remove the dash I would not. However, if it needs repairing and the windshield is out, this is the time to do it and to replace upholstery around the windshield as well. The color is your choice. I recommend removing the glass and rubber and all of the bolt on parts. I chemical stripped my car and repaired the rust, and there was alot that did not show before stripping. There are many of steps to go through and your car will probably be tied up for some time. I guess how far you go depends on what you want as a finished product. This is a great site for assistance with each step.

Bob M

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.