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Water in Oil, Bad Gasket?/Rebuild Bottom End?


byunique

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  • 4 weeks later...

He didn't have a exact answer. He said it was one of those chicken before the egg things. ... not sure weather the gasket got blown out causing the motor to overheat, then cracking the wall... or possibly bad gasket causing water to enter the cylinder and then causing a crack.

I ended up getting a stroked 3.0, which I SHOULD have gotten a long time ago :)

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I ended up getting a stroked 3.0, which I SHOULD have gotten a long time ago :)

Sweet! Did you buy a complete motor or just a short block? Care to share what that cost you? I'm considering buying one of his long blocks instead of building up the F54 I have. I figure it might be cheaper in the long run to go this route even though I'd miss out on the experience of building it myself.

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re: 3.0, 278 HP, 260ftlbs TQ (at the crank)

Ended up costing $4150. I allready had the ported N42 head and 3 x Mikunis. That included doing some flow testing, and valve job. My head was not reworked, it flowed pretty well allready. Some of the numbers for labor seem a bit strange, but the cost in parts/dyno tune is a good reference anyway. BTW, he said I was gettting a "deal".

Breakdown:

1) parts: pistons, rings, LD28 crank, gasket, bearings, oil pump, timing kit, cam, arp bolts, rods, plugs, oil, gas for dyno testing. $1664

2) Labor:

dyno tune: $500

flow testing: $420

build stroker: $1000

clean/hone block, polish crank, rod work $410

waste fee + tax: $152.28

P.S the experience would have been great, but had to get the car working for the Motorsport Show.

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