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What size engine stand?


cbudvet

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I am finally nearing the time when the engine needs to be pulled. My question is what size engine stand do I/ should I get? Harbour Frieght has a 750 lb, 1000 lb. and 2000 lb capacity stand. I am thinking of the 1000lb but thought I should ask first. Thanks. Carl

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I believe any of the three you mentioned will handle the L6 however, I suggest an engine stand that is stable, rolls around under load fairly easy, and will allow you to rotate the engine without a stability issue. Just my 2 cents!

Tom

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The engine weigh about 500 lbs , so any of the three will work . Just one thing , make sure that it has four ''legs'' . I have seen some with only 3 and they are designed for disaster. Also if the spread of the front legs is too close it makes the whole affaire tippy when you roll it aground . It is unsettling enough having the engine sticking out like that, Be sure to use HARDENED steel bolts to secure the block to the stand. There is quite abit of leverage with the engine being held from one end like that . Phred makes a great adapter that allows you to bolt the block from the side. This is a fantastic improvement in that you then can access both ends of the block and it is vary easy to rotate it, for cleaning and painting. Gary

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Got my engine stand and engine crane from Grizzly Industrial at the following url:

http://www.grizzly.com

Engine stand (Rated at 1250 Lbs) price was $65.95 (Item #G8722)

Engine Crane (Rated to 2 tons) price was $169.95 + freight of $73.25. (Item #G8713 or G8712) It's heavy duty for sure...

They also have some other items related to metal working, welding, painting equipment...etc...etc.

webdawg1

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The 750# rated has 3 wheels. The 1K# one has 4 wheels and is more stable if rolling it around.

The 3rd one is overkill and the legs branch out and may impede foot roo and take up floor space.

I have the 1K# 4 wheel engine stand.

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Rolling Stability is the main consideration - I like the type of engine stands that I can store when not in use. This is an example, but there are many others..

Also an oil drip pan, that sits across the front legs - saves a lot of clean up.

<a href=http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47304 TARGET=NEW> 2000 LBS. Capacity<a/>

Buy two of them at the same time - and later you can use them for a rotisserie for the body shell. From time to time our local Sam's Club has 2000 or 3000lb. engine stands of the same type for around $59.00 each..

FWIW,

Carl B.

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When I bought a ton-o-parts an engine and the 1000# stand with 4 wheels from Harbor Freight came with it. It is a nice "stand", however one should be carefull when rolling. It has a tendancy to tip if not pushed or pulled properly even though the front steel wheels are on casters, they can catch on a pebble or whatever is on the floor causing a tip and a scare. My signature proves my paranoia.

"theianmonster" you are correct on the used head bolts, I also used them because they were the strongest ones that fit the block, although I had to use spacers. Works great and safe.

Bonzi Lon

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I proved that a three-wheel stand is unstable, especially with a long engine that overhangs beyond the front caster.

I had a L28 mounted on my stand. One day I had to move it in a hurray, the front wheel caught on a pebble, fell over and landed on the valve cover. It was ugly.

I welded up a new front leg that had 2 wheels (an "I" vs a "T") and was as long as the engine fully dressed. I sized the front portion to be as wide as possible but still fit between the legs of my hoist. It works great. The only problem with it was that the next engine I worked on was a Honda 4-cyl and I kept tripping over the front leg :stupid:

Two more things:

1) As with many tools, take the rated capacity and divide by 2. You will be much happier with the resulting purchase. The engine stand I bought had a lot of flex when a Chevy V8 was hanging on it.

2) Beware of cheap casters. A friend had one that failed two casters with only an air-cooled VW motor hanging on it.

Al

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