Has anyone ever cahnged the ball joints themselves on 71 240Z? can you guys tell me if this is a doable job for a guy just under his car in his garage or does it need to be lifted and such. I am changing the ball joints because I am having control issues when going on tight turns, even at low speed, there is a shimmy or slight wobble in the front end and controling it is hard. The tires are pretty shot but i feel it is a type of suspension problem. I have changed the bushing with energy suspension urothane ones on the sway bar and rack, Along with a rebuilt rack and pinion, these helped but didn't solve the problem.. Anyone know what the problem is? and if it is the ball joints, how doable is that job. Thanks,

Mike

If you are changing the ball joint, don't forget to also change out the steering knuckle joints (tie rod joints) as well. Plus you may want to replace the rubber coupling on the steering shaft with a urethane unit. All these items can cause undesireable steering trates when they become worn. And yes you can do this job in your own garage without too much trouble. Hope this help you a little.

Tom

Borrow, rent (autozone), or buy a pickle fork.....

Did the whole front end of my 9/70 in the driveway last summer no problem. While I was in there I discovered that the swing arm bushings were almost non-existant which caused my right tension rod to break twice bfore I figured it out and making it a real squirrel in the turns ,so you might want to check that while your in there.

Best,

H Houghton

ball joints install via a tapered threaded bolt being pulled into a tapered hole.

Thus, when you take the nut off the balljoint, it has to be "released" from the hub/spindle. The "pickle fork" is one tool to do this with, but it is a wedge that will tear up the rubber on the ball joint and maybe other things.

They sell a "puller" type tool that will do this job as well. Check the Z parts catalogs for it. And, expert mechanics will give the hub area a resounding wack with a big hammer, which can distort the "hole" and pop the tapered side of the balljoint assembly out of the hole. Another risk of damage.

Keys are a well supported car with jack stands. When you are wrestling and such, it nice to have the 1$%^ lbs well supported.

What is the condition of your other suspension bushings? The compresion rod bushing, steering rack bushings, lower arm bushing, strut upper "bearing"? etc. All influence the movement around and about the correct paths of motion.

Good luck

Do the taper pin has to be press in or do i just tight the nut ?

Im replacing mine, but not sure if they need to sit al te way in?

No need for a press